Hotburn76

The big brown Santa just brought me my new RCBS scale today. So whats a guy do, starts weighing everything. Now on my GT II's I never weighed one, why do it, you guys give good info. Well I took one out of the quiver with my 100 Grain Tekan on it. Weighed up just the Tekan, 102 Grains, not 100, but who cares. I weigh the shaft and its 298 grains? Now I am confused since I thought the GT where 430 with 100 grain tip. So now I am taking the vanes off to weigh bare shaft with brass front and aluminum rear inserts, 275 grains? Whats up with this? I did a search on a post I made a while back and several of you all gave the same info on the specs and my shaft should weigh 305. Is there a chance I have 80 grain brass inserts instead of 110 grain? Do they make 80 grain ones? I took some hornady bullets out that where close in weight and they check out just fine so I know I am using the scale right, just can not figure this out. A total arrow weight for me with Nap Quick Spins on and a spray paint crest is 402. Any Ideas on this guys? They fly just fine, killed two deer, just not sure what I have now?

ranger56528

Weigh some differant arrows and BH and see what yo come up with ?.

Pydpiper

Here is my breakdown:
Shaft 175 grains
2" Blazers 17 grains
Brass insert 109 grains
Auminum nocks 20 grains
Tip of choice 100 grains
Total weight 420 grains, 430 grainsif you use 4" vanes
My material weights are a bit lower than average, and with reason. Only by a grain or two though(per piece).

Pydpiper

Jason, with these scales it is not uncommon to have variances from one scale to the next, what is important is that the one scale you have is consistent. Your readings are odd numbers..
It does sound like the brass may be what is bringing the arrow short of 430 grains, not much else could be affecting 30 grains of missing weight.
It doesn't matter, as long as they are all the same you are fine, actually better than fine, you have gained a bit of speed and managed to keep the weight forward. The only catch is to remember that and be prepared for a shorter flight when you make new arrows. I would prefer 80 grain brass to 110, it is a fine transition between very heavy and not heavy enough.
Let us know what you find out, and keep your thumb off the scale!

Horizontal Hunter

Though I am not shooting GT Laser II's I have been looking into building some as the Beamans I have have FOC issues. I remember reading that there were 2 different brass Insert weights 90g and 110g. That may be part of your difference.

I have seen my broadheads and field points vary+/- 2 grains. My arrows also have a +/- 2 grain variance as well. In my case I was able to chart out thearrow and BH/FP weights and mix and match to come upwith 10 arrows that are within 1g.All of my arrows are numbered on one vane and Ikeep this list handy for reference.Please note that I am more than a little AR.

With an ASDyou might be able to shave off a grain or so off of an insert butonce they are built it can be difficult to make bigger changes, especially if the inserts are super glued in.

Bob

awshucks

lol,Jason, welcome to the GT mystery. Like Pypie says mine weigh 110-111 gr [brass inserts] Gt's sitesaysthey should weigh 90 gr.I have arrows w/ unaccountable diffs in weight. Suspect they have more than one brass insert weight or a competotors fits the shafts but weighs different. I dunno. I do know that several different orders of Millers killers, 4" dura vanes, brass inserts, 100 gr points all are about 431 gr total. I use them for bheads and hunting. Watch your scale, recently made an ass out of myself over grams vs grains. It was not virgin territory, lol. Fwiw, I have Gt's that range from 398 to 446 and they will all hit a golf ball at 30 yds.

I used to bench rest rifles and reload. Consistancy is kinda my middle name. w/ guns a few grains here, a few grains there you are soon talking major diffs. W/ xbows, it doesn't seem to matter. Much. lololol.

Pydpiper

It's true, a few grains here or there make no difference.
But, here is how I do it:
I build 6-12 arrows at a time, I weigh all my inserts, nocks, shafts individually, take the one with the lowest weight and set it aside, I then dremmel the rest to match the weight exactly. I do the same with the shafts, I use the ASD to make sure each shaft is identical in weight, then I build them.
That is why my completed arrows usually end up about 3 grains less than ones that are built using all the parts and trusting they are the same.
Does it help accuracy? Nope, not as far as the equipment goes, but it does a lot for my confidence, I hate missing.