KLS

first is string silencers, anyone use them? and/or couldanyone enlighten me on which ones work the beston a crossbow, or are they just a big waste of time on a crossbow?
I put some "tarantulas" on mine tonight and couldnt really notice any real effect in string noise reduction


second is an arrow issue, I noticed that I'm getting some grooves about 3/4in longforming at the nock end of my arrows between the tip of the alumin nock itself and the vane from what appears to be from the rail, at first it didnt seems so bad but I've noticed that they're getting worse, almost like they'rehittingon something during the firing process, I've looked over everything and cant really see anything wrong or where the cause is coming from, is this just normal wear for a crossbow arrow? I've only shot them maybe 20 times

Dnk

KLS, the most affective way to reduce, and it won't be by much, is to use a realitively heavy arrow and serve some cat whiskers on the string. The cat whiskers have to be served on to work well. If you have an Excal then use a Dacron string and keep the brace height high enough not to let the string whack the riser.
As far as your arrows go there will be some scoring marks on the arrow on one side where you describe but after 20 shots there should be much of a mark. There certainly shouldn't be a groove after 20 shots.
What bow do you have?

KLS

I have a phoenix and I'm shooting carbon arrows


I noticed the grooving pretty much right off although at first they were only visual, now its to the point that you can definitely see and feel that they're there, its even leaving visual scuff marks on the alumin nock(no grooving though) but its only for about an inch at the end of the arrow
if I were to guess it almost looks like the string is ramming the end of the arrow into the rail during firing
maybe I dont have things lubed well enough?



I take it from your advise that a Dacron string is more quiet than the stock one? if so I'll have to pick one up, I didnt serve the trantantulas on the string becausethey're designed more to just be tied on however I have no idea if those are the best choice for a crossbow or not

as far as brace height, my string sits right exactly on the top mark on the riser, I marked thestring along the sides of the rail with a green marker(for reference when cocking) andnoticed that it leaves faint marks on the flat of the riser asthe stringslides on it after firing, which is no big deal,butI also noticed that the string has at some point made contact with the front of the riser also because theres faint marks there too, so I'm not too sure about what to do there... isthe string making contact with the risera common thing or is it something that needs to be taken care of? my string is already at the top mark(plus) as far as the brace height marks on the riser

Dnk

The closer to the riser the more the sting may hit the riser or hit it harder and make more noise. Start with the string set at the mark closest to the shooter and work your way down. Some say there is a sweet spot just below the starting point I described but I never cared to find it. In Trad bows there is a sweet spot that gets rid of the string "twang",
New Excals are supposed to come with a Dacron string.
Any string silencer is much less affective when it is not served on the string tightly.I've tried a few different silencers and I think cat whiskers are the best and do say on if served.
Crossbows are going to make tons more noise than any vert bow. There is no way to make a crossbow quite. Really, there is no real reason to make them quiet. There are a few threads on how to reduce the noise on the Excl forum. Filling the rail with foam apparently is one way but I haven't seen any reason to do that to any of mine.
Have you run your finger along the rail where the arrow are picking up the damage? I think you might be best off to call Danny Miller on this one.

awshucks

KLS: mine look pretty much the same as you describe. I have a habit of putting the same vane in the slot, but since I fletched some all the same color, it spreads the wear out more. A pic would help, and I am sure it's not a lube problem. Have you read the article on string jump written by Bill T? If interested, go to www.horizontalbowhunter.com click on Regular Columns, Bill Troubtidge and scroll or read til you find it. It's titled "String Jump Solutions"

Dnk

Dan, I've never checked my own carbons, yours are grooved with in 30 shots?

awshucks

I wouldn't call it grooved, but they develop marks in painted wraps rather quick. Dunno about 30 shots, never checked or really cared, as they shoot good marks or not.I think it's normal, but haven't seen KLS's problems or concerns so I'm not ruling out a burr or rough edge somewhere, but would think if that were true it would be obvious. One thing I did notice on the Paradox I had and was warned about by Danny Miller was the riser stuck up a tad above the rail. I filed the top of rail cut out [for riser] down a few thousandths and it went away. Be the first thing I'd check if I was looking for a rub problem. Didn't affect groups on Pdox either, btw. Edited to add: I'd also check the tiller w/ framing square on rail checking satring both ways. A minor amt is normal and would cause more pressure on one side of arrow at nock. And to save band width, lol, I have no idea how to adjust it, would be a call to Danny M

Dnk

That's right about the fit of the riser. I juggled the relationship between the rail and the riser as well as filled the riser corners for a smooth transition between the two. I was just being A.R. because it wasn't causing a problem I just didn't like how it looked.

Horizontal Hunter

DNK,

Where on the string (FFF) would you serve the cats wiskers and do they really make much of a difference??

HH

Dnk

I serve them on around eight inches from the limb tips. They are the most affective string silencers and they stay on if you serve them on. Is it a big difference? No. Do they work? Yes, not as good as ear plugs but they are cheap.