HAZCON7

I'd say from here out its all gonna be your form, strength, aiming, releasing, and breathing.

2 tips I would give anyone to instantly improve their shooting, whether w/ a bow or gun:

#1 - Aim for a specific spot. If you shoot for the big round yellow dot then you are giving yourself 2 inches of slop even before releasing the trigger, but if you aim for the very bottom edge of that same big round yellow dot then you've eliminated that bit of slop, thus tightening your group already.

#2 - While you are aiming at that one spot, concentrate on your breathing but do not hold your breath. Begin to release as soon as you are satisfied that you are aimed correctly and your breathing is under control. Try to complete the release when your breathing is at the top or bottom cycle of a breath - that is, the small window of time when your chest and body moves the least when breathing. It is at the top from the time you are about done inhaling to the time that you start to exhale. It is at the bottom from the time you are about done exhaling to the time you begin to inhale.

Give those 2 things a few practice shots and see if your groups don't tighten up automatically.

by23856

Don't be too hard on yourself. I just measured my coffee cup diameter, the standard kind that you get your kid's picture 'branded' on, and it is exactly 3". If you can consistantly put three arrows into a coffee cup at 20 yards, you can kill a deer easily. The old timers used a pie plate as a measure for hitting and killing a deer. What I would be more concerned about is eliminating those erratic ones, since they are the ones that can wound a deer and cause for a long track and/or a possible lost deer.

Paul L Mohr

How many arrows are we talking about? That makes a difference. The more arrows you shoot, the bigger your group will most likely be. Try three arrow groups and see if it gets a little better. Honestly, 1.5 to 3 inch groups at 30 yards is pretty average I would think. I would be very happy with that if I were you. No problem wanting to get better, but don't be discouraged if it never happens.

Mostly what is going to effect your groups is your shot sequence and form. The better you get, the more accurate you will become. There are so many things to do in archery, it's hard to get all right every time. And that is the key to good archery, consistancy. You need to everything exactly the same way every time. That's the difference between a pro shooter and an average shooter. Just practice until everything becomes becomes second nature and subconcious. All you should have to do is concentrate on the spot, the rest will just happen. It helps to have your bow set up properly as well. Has more to do with how it fits you than tuning for the most part. Don't be afriad to get a coach or something if you want to get better. There are a few books out on the subject as well. I have Idiot Proof Archery and it is pretty good, there are others though. Or visit sites that are more dedicated towards target archery. Someone here could suggest a few. I can't remember them right off the top of my head. Many here visit numerous sites though and could make some suggestions I'm sure.

As far as hunting goes though, I know some that shoot a tad bit worse than you do and still have no problem taking game every year. You just need to know your limitations is all. If you dont' shoot that well past 30 yards, limit your shots to around 25 yards or so. It takes a little restraint, but that's what hunting is about.

Good luck,
Paul

H80Hunter

I am not a tournament target shooter, I am a hunter, so when I practice, I judge whether or not I would have made a killing shot (I aim for the lungs) and go off of that, rather than measuring a 2 and 2/7 inch group... I always try to make the best shot I can, but I honestly don't concern myself as much with groups as some do...

I started shooting from 40 yards this summer and though the groups may not be ultra impressive, I can hit a pie plate everytime, and would definitly consider a shot at a deer if everything was perfect, (feeding, unalert deer, etc) as I feel confident in my ability to make a lethal shot from that distance

CBM SC

RA's right !!

It takes a while !! I'm pretty sure it took me two years to quit punching the release !! [8D]

I'm being serious !!!!!!!!!!! I shot pretty good.........started asking questions like yourself..........figured out part of my problem was trigger punching..............two years later I finally got a smooth release going consistantly without punching !!

How's that for a slow learner !!

ButchA

Trigger punching? OMG, I did that too for the longest time! [&o]

I started out with a Tru-Fire 3 finger "Crackshot" release (thumb trigger activated). It worked okay and was nice and comfortable to hold, but would cause string torque and most importantly, the strong desire to slam the trigger with your thumb. I worked with it for about a year, then I moved on (staying with Tru-Fire products), and got the Tru-Fire Magnum wrist release that has a normal trigger and a wrist strap. The rotating head on it is great - zero string torque! I relax and gently press the trigger, and can get 1/2" groups at 20 yards with it.

Butch A.

c903

What are the specs on your bow and arrows, and how consistent and close are your groups at closer ranges?

JeramyK

I guess another good question is how do you all measure your groups and how many arrows are you shooting?

ButchA

Me? My bow is an old rugged, reliable, PSE Edge Series 1000C lefty bow from 1996. The old round wheel, dual cam, tear-drop cable, dacron string, type of bow.

My PSE 1000C bow

Bow specs: 41" ATA, 65# draw, 65% letoff, 30" draw length.
Arrows: Easton XX75 Camo Hunter #2315, 30.5" cutlength
Tips/Broadheads: 125gr fieldtips and 125gr Thunderheads.
TM Hunter lefty arrow rest
Tru-Glo 3 pin sights (20,30,40)
Release is a new Tru-Fire Magnum wrist release

This is a very simple, common, older style bow, that is heavy but is deadly accurate. It ain't the fastest thing out there, but it is still a great shooter! [8D]

I think the arrows are 487 grains, but I'm not sure. I have no idea the speed of the bow either. All I know is that it is accurate and still tuned perfectly for me.

20 yards: Best shots with 4 XX75's ----- 1/2" groups.
30 yards: ----> 1 - 1 1/2" groups.

I tried 10 yards before and darn near robin hooded an arrow. I ripped the fletching off of the previous arrows. So, I stick with 20, 25, 30 yards when practicing.

Butch A.

c903

Sorry, ButchA! I should have specified that I was directing my question to KimberRuger.

PSE Edge! Good bow. Love those long ATA's and wheels; don't you? Good and efficient but uncomplicated setup too. Don't see much of that these days.