Tuneing trouble
 

I have a Mathews Q2xl and have been shooting it for a little over a year and CAN NOT get my broadheads to group with my field points. I am shooting muzzy 100 grain and they want to strike low and right .This is what I did so far ,

1st I picked up a muzzy zero effect, I thought this would do it for sure. Nope

2nd I bought a laser tuner that bolts in place on the riser via the sight mounting holes that is suppoused to give you perfect arrow alignment. No help here.

3rd I used a level kit to get a perfect 90 off the string, still nothing.

4th I decided it has to be the arrows so I pick up a dozen axis arrows. I couldn't wait to try them out and watch the problem go away and to my gleefull surprise, no help.

Right now every thing is centered according to the tools I indicated. With every thing "perfect" my arrows still hit right 4-6 inches at 20 yrds with broad heads. What's would you suggest? Thanks in advance Jim

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Whats your DL and poundage?

What spine arrows are you shooting?

What size and configuration of feathers / vanes are you using?

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

I stepped away from my Mathews for a while. I picked it up again recently to finalize it for my backup bow.(good thing too! another story[:@]) I have to say, that dang grip is the pits. Just think about the thing and poof!, there goes an arrow. If your positive, totally positive everything else is dead nuts on, try removing it for a while. Just how good are your field tip groups? Are they oblong, in a line, or circular? How many in a group and what do they measure?

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

I figured more info would be needed, here it is: 70lbs of draw @30" draw length. Arrows are 29" axis 340's with three four inch feathers with a fairly hard right handed helical.

I am a little rusty since I haven't been shooting in a while but after I got warmed up I was cutting feathers when I was shooting broadheads. I can maintain 1 or 2 inch 3 shot groups with things set up as they are now.

Thanks

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Actually JimBow , it looks like you've done everything but tune your bow. The lazer is a pretty fancy tool for just a starting point. Personally I'd go back and set my nock height 1/8" high and start shooting thru paper to see whats going on. It could be a number of things from incorrect spined arrows to hand torque. The paper tune should tell you whats wrong if you have a consistant grip. Do you spin check your arrows? In some cases I'd say just sight your bow in to your broadheads if their hitting consistantly , but with Muzzys I'm guessing something's wrong. I've always been able to get Muzzys to group with my field points.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Unless you have boulder arms, I'd say lighten up on the poundage. That would improve your grip. And paper tune like bowfanatic said.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Bingo! the arrows are telling you something - but you are not listening. tuning is an interactive process. All that "stuff" you did is useless if you do not "read what the arrow is doing. Move your nock point DOWN. and move your rest to the LEFT. If left doesn't do it move it to the RIGHT. See what the arrows are doing and work to get them to go where you want.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

So what your saying is perfectly centered isn't ideal. I've asked pro shops about paper tuning and read several articles on the subject. The pro shop people for the most part argue that paper tuneing isn't the big time tuneing aid people say it is. The articles I've read all vary in procedeure and most vary on the value of paper tuneing. Let me ask this, have all of you paper tuned? If so how did you do this. I'm sure you have all seen the wide range of paper tuneing procedures.
Also I'm a pretty big guy and have been shooting 70 lbs for a long time , If I was to lower my draw weight I would need new arrows also.
Thanks for the info so far.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

As someone said earlier papertuning tells you what the arrow is doing.Try it I will bet something is not just right.How did you set your center shot.My LX is 13/16 off the riser.I think my Feather Light is the same.I had the same problem with the Feather Light until I found out that a center shot guage is not the right way to do it.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Am I missing something here. Most of us would die for 1-2 inch groups with broadheads. Those who say they're getting tighter with broadheads are forgetting the group that was 2 1/2. Most who say they would retune can't shoot 1 inch groups with fieldpoints on a regular basis.

Short of that.... buy a real bow.:D[8D]

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Davids right....I missed your post on group size......what is the problem then?

The fact that they are not hitting with the field points has no bearing on a good tune. If they are flying and grouping great - I wouldn't care if they hit different then my fieldpoints.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Hi Guys, 1st off I used a Easy Tune Laser, It's probably the easiest and most accurate way to get perfect center shot.

2nd I guess the problem is that when field points and Broadheads don't strike in the same spot it says something is wrong either with the tuneing or shooting technique.
this and I like to practice as much as possible before season and broadheads are too hard on the target. Switching back and fourth from broadhead setting to field point setting can be a pain.

Last year I had a friend call me for a last minute hunt and I was still set on field points luckly I had some rocket steel heads handy. I can shoot mechs but would rather stick with muzzys.

It seems that some guys never have any problems with broadhead/ fieldpoint point of impact espically with a good drop away rest like the muzzy. A few of you mentioned hand torque, perhaps I should look into this some more.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

JimBow:
Your last post touched on what I was going to mention. There have been some recent articles that have talked about changing the stock grip on the Matthews. I have a XL-size hand (glove size) and find that the Matthews grip to be too large and uncomfortable. I believe Matthews makes smaller after-market grips that may help. Having said all that, if you are shooting a 3-arrow group as tight as you say you are, then the grip may not be of major concern. I would try reducing the poundage on your bow to around 65#. This will lower it some, but you will still be able to shoot the same size arrow. I don't remember you mentioning the weight of your broadheads. You might try going with a 100 gr. or even 85 gr.! Paper tuning will tell you a lot about arrow travel as it leaves your bow and I would first paper tune your bow properly with field tips and then try your broadheads. This will show you any differences in the two setups.
Sorry for the long-winded reply.

RE: Tuneing trouble
 

Thanks ARDeerslayer(and everyone else), the 2 or 3 inch groups I was shooting was at 20 yrds, Thats about the size of a tennis ball. I heard a coupple people saying that is very accurate shooting. It's accepitable to me but not super. Iv'e heard guys say hitting a pie plate at 20 is good enough well I don't think so. I am going to shoot some more and see how things go. I haven't shot for 3 or 4 months and I am rusty I can get 2 or 3 arrows tight and then have a wild flyer. Once I get consistant I'll go into the tuneing process again. I hope I can get this squared away come fall. Thanks again Jim