badshotbob

You tell em nub! OUCH!! He is right though. You have to know your equipment and what it does or why it' s not doing something before you can hunt. Consider yourself very fortunate you haven' t wounded a deer yet. Make sure the field tips are the same grain as the broadheads you are shooting. I suggest shooting at a target that you can walk to different angles and yardages, not just shooting at it from predetermined yardages you' ve paced off. Force yourself to learn yardages so you can look at a deer and know exactly how far it is. Target practice from the stand a lot too - in full hunting gear. I personaly hunt with only one pin sighted in at 20 yards. I know I' m good from 10 yards out to about 30 from the tree. The pin placement isn' t exact out to 30 as it is from 20, but I' ve shot enough to know exactly where that arrow is going. Also, by shooting low, it sounds like you are not following through on the shot. You don' t hold your bow steady until after the arrow hits. Do not move that bow until well after you see the arrow stop. By not doing this, you are actually lowering the bow before the arrow leaves. Good luck.

jtom

I am just jumping in to this discussion with the hopes that I might be able to help a bit here. By all means read the posts that are suggested as this is one teriffic site. I am so lucky to have found this place. In the few days that I have been a member, I have received so much help in my questions. Now I personally found a bow site that closely mimmics a gun scope. It is called the " Sniper" , it is fully adjustable elevation wise and can be done in about second or so. It works great for me. Others use a single pin but this does not work for me at all. But first and foremost, your bow needs to be tuned, then your arrows matched to your bow. There are tons on information concerning tuning that I could fill pages in here with the various sites. You can start with Easton' s arrow shaft selector by simply going to " Easton' s web site. I would recommend first tho, to go to your local archery pro shop and have them tune your bow for the first time and watch them intently and ask as many questions as you can. Once your bow is tuned you should be able to keep it in tune yourself and if you get hung up on what to do just drop by here or go back to your archery pro shop and some of us can and will be glad to help you in every way we can. Good luck and good hunting but always remember to hunt safe.

xXx6182

Give me a break. I said I was new to bow hunting. I have been around deer hunting all my life, I have always been quick learner. And what do you mean " Your lucky you haven' t wounded a deer" LOL Who are the ones that said they would leave a deer to die if he was locked up with another buck because it was unethical? I know my limits, I know when and when not to shoot at a deer with a gun or bow. Just thought I would ask some guys that new about bows just to get me started. Thanks for the ones that helped for the ones that were smart asses don' t waste my time, I am serious about learning this. I may not know all the terminology and sound like a idiot talking about it but like I said, I am a fast learner.

weakie

I just started bowhunting last year and i was shooting field points only at my target. I then put on mechanicals and went into the woods. I shot at 3 deer (2 very nice bucks) and missed all three due to my shot pulling way to the left.

since then I have stopped using mechanicals and i bought MUZZY 100 grain 3 blade points. I will tell you that these shoot the same as field points! My buddy and i use the exact same arrows and broadheads. He sighted his bow in with just field points and went home. I sighted mine in with the broadheads and went to bed. The next day we went to qualify at the range (you have to qualify to hunt certain areas in maryland). My buddy asked if he could use my broadheads because he didnt buy his yet. I said sure but i think you will miss. Damned if he didnt shoot perfect and i mean PERFECT. I went home and switched my broadheads for field points and grouped the exact same. I think it all depends on your broadheads. You really should sight your bow in with the points you will be hunting with but you could also listen to me. I dont know about any other broadheads, but i do know firsthand that my muzzys shoot the same as my field points! Mechanicals are supposed to shoot the closest to field points but that was not the case for me. Just my two cents.

Dont let this guy get you down man. Nub is probably an overweight balding guy who farts in his sleep and sleeps on the couch with potato chips in his chest hair lolololol!! stop ragging on people NUB. You told him to ask if he had a question then you try to make a guy feel stupid with your EINSTIEN comment. Did you mean to spell it EINSTEIN smarty??

JeramyK

Well, I have to admit nub came across a bit harsh in his last post. But I can' t say that I disagree with him. I think the biggest point nub is trying to make is that if you read xXx' s posts he is basically answering his own questions but isn' t making the connection.

You really do need to understand what tuning is all about. There are many articles on this forum if you do a search. Or stop by a local pro shop and discuss it with them. Your first step to a successful shot is making sure everything is properly tuned.

It' s very common for broad heads to fly 1-4 inches lower than your field points. This is where practice pays off. Your best bet would be to pickup a broad head target and practice with the exact same setup that you plan on using in the woods.

Once again you' ve addressed your problem. Go buy yourself some new field points so that all are the exact same. You' ll get better consistancy.

He' s right, you are lucky you haven' t wounded a deer. You went into the woods without knowing the limits of your equipment. You could have hit those 2 deer with non-fatal shots. Then you' d have to live with that on your conscious. Luckily you missed them outright.

That' s great! A well disciplined hunter will be successful with a gun or bow. Just make sure you know exactly what to expect from your archery equipment. Guns are much less forgiving.

Now don' t throw stones, weakie. Sounds like you could benefit from some of Nub' s advice as well! [][]

cyclone

Bowhunting is not something that one just " picks up" and decides to do. You must live it...Eat, drink, breathe, sleep and be a bowhunter...

I' ve been trying to get away from the compounds and go traditional for the past several seasons now. I haven' t gotten one yet, missed only one because all the other shot opportunities haven' t felt right. But I' m patient and know that I' ll get past that first one..

Second thought: don' t try to see the arrow hit, listen for it, it is an unforgettable and unmistakable sound. If you try to see the arrow hit more than likely you have form problems created by " peeking" ..Just keep pluggin away at it.

weakie

[quote]ORIGINAL: xXx6182

Now don' t throw stones, weakie. Sounds like you could benefit from some of Nub' s advice as well!


I' m sure i could use some tips from the man but not with the smart ass replies! I' m 29 and started bowhunting at 28. I am a newbie but you have to start somewhere so maybe thats why the smart ass comments strike a nerve. I have been asking my share of questions that my buddies sometimes laugh at but by asking is how you learn.

weakie

I could also use some tips for this quote thing as you can see!

fupped duck

xXx6182

First off, welcome to the forum.

Second, I could gather that you learn fast before you even stated so.
You can' t learn if you don' t ask questions or if you ignore the results when something isn' t working right.

You' ve come to the right place, keep posting and asking, it' ll come around.

Looks like you' ve learnt a valuable lesson already.

ie. Nub is a classic example why all Dicks aren' t named Richard...

JOE PA

XXX - First off, welcome to the forum.

You have asked questions about why you are having problems, which probably means that you really want to know the answers. That is very positive, and I hope you take the time to read helpful articles, threads, etc. and take the time to work with your equipment so that everything is working properly. It seems that this is not the case right now, since you are asking questions, but state that you don' t know why you are shooting low, or missing, etc. It seems like your bow-arrow-broadhead combo is in need of tuning. If you have an archery pro shop in your area, they may be of help. Some times though, especially this time of year, they aren' t in the frame of mind to help with someone who already has all of the equipment and does not need or want to buy anything. This depends on the shop, but most of them are run by guys who also want to be in the woods hunting at this time of year. Also, most of the guys on this forum have spent many hours in the off season to insure that their equipment was properly tuned BEFORE they went in the woods after game. Some guys (like Nub) are reallly experts when it comes to tuning and the time they spend getting everything just right. Guys who really put in their time to make sure their equipment is as close to perfect as possible before going out can get frustrated with newbies who only ask questions after they have had problems actually shooting at deer, especially when the impression can be that a question is asked, but the answer is not really accepted.

That said, I' m sure that most all of the guys here would hope that you can get your equipment sorted out, that you will appreciate and enjoy hunting with a bow, and that getting you equipment in proper working order allows you to enjoy shooting more, and lets you harvest game efficiently and humanely. I don' t know if you are going to take the time to read the stuff Nub suggested (although I hope you do since it would be a big help), but I will try to suggest a few things you can try that will get you closer to what you need, setup wise.

1. First, check to be sure all of your field points (practice tips) are the same weight.
These are realatively cheap if you need to buy some.

2. The broadheads you use should be the same weight as your field points. When your broadheads are screwed into your arrow, spin the head and arrow on a piece of glass, or other smooth surface. It should spin without any wobble. If not, try to mix and match broadheads and arrow shafts until you get the best spin (least amount of wobble).

3. Check the centershot by holding the bow at arms length. Close your non-dominant eye. With an arrow nocked on the string, if you hold the bow so that the string seems to lie on the center of the grip, your arrow should look like it is perfectly in line with the string, the tip of the arrow should not be to the left or right of the string. This is assuming that you are shooting with a release aid.

4. The arrow should be close to level when nocked on the string. The tip of the arrow should not look like it is pointing downhill. If it is, this could be the reason that your broadheads are shooting low. If it looks like the tip is pointing downhill, you will have to lower your nocking point until it is more level. This will make the bow shoot higher, so you will also have to move your sight pin.

5. Check for fletch clearance. If you have checked 1-4, and still have a problem with broadheads shooting low, especially if the arrows with broadheads do not seem to fly perfectly straight, your vanes may be hitting the rest. You can check this by getting some aerosol foot powder, and spraying the back part of one of your arrows with the powder. Then shoot the arrow from your bow. There should be no marks from your arrow rest on the fletching. (I' m not sure what kind of rest you are using, I might have missed that in your post.) This would be something to do unless you are using a Whisker Biscuit rest.

If you have done 1-5, and you are using the correct arrows for the bow, then you should be shooting arrows that are flying pretty straight, and they should be shooting fairly well.

One other thing to remember is that shooting a bow, even with a release aid, is something like shooting a flintlock, if you have ever done that. You must concentrate on the aim. The sight pin may float around a bit, but concentrate on aiming on the target. Squeeze the trigger slowly, and don' t stop aiming on the target until the arrow actually hits the target. It is easy to stop the shot sequence as soon as you pull the trigger, and many guys drop their bow arm at this point, resulting in a low shot.

I really hope some of this helps you, and that you can get your rig shooting its best, and that you enjoy archery shooting as much as hunting.