best weight arrows to use with 50lb bow
 

I would like to know what would the best arrow weight ot use with a 50lb bow. right now i have 150s but they fishtail all over the place and i cant seem to get a good group. Are they too light or is it something else

Brand of arrow an the type would help a lot. How munch do they weigh?

Arrows need to be at least 250 grains. 300 would be better.

This chart should give you what you need.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_...deflection.htm

Fishtailing all over the place with field points is probably a tuning problem.

Ideally, imho, you should shoot the heaviest arrow that your bow can accurately shooy.

they are carbon express muntiy 150 grain

150 isn't the grains. Those are 8.06 grains per inch.

If your arrow is 25-27 inches long and has an 85 grain tip its the right arrow or 100 grain tip if you arrow is 25-26 inches. If your arrows are 26 inches with 100 grain tip your in good shape at about 350 grains.

Again though if your fish fishtailing with field points your probably having contact with your fetching somewhere.

As Rockport says, 150 is not the weight of the arrow but the spine designation. The 150 computes to about a 500 spine. Depending on the length of the arrows, point weight, draw length of the bow, cam style, and draw weight these might not be stiff enough. But assuming they are then you need to have your bow properly and tune it to shoot those arrows. Part of the tuning would be to ensure the fletching isn't hitting the rest or cables which could be part of the problem.

I think you need to get to a reputable shop and get some hands on help, unless you know what you're doing. Many guys think mounting a rest, nocking point, and sight on a bow by a shop is tuning, but it's not. Basic setup and tuning are two different things and a shop can help with both.

Another thing a shop can do is help you with learning some decent shooting form. This is a must if you are going to shoot well. A bow is nothing more than a simple machine that uses a block and tackle system. As a machine it will do the same thing for every shot, assuming you shoot it the same. As such, even without being tuned it will shoot arrows to the point. They might fly ugly getting there, but most times if it won't group then it's a problem with the shooter not being consistent.

i have a "new funnel rest". could it be the problem with the fletching hitting it?

If I'm picturing the right rest isn't it a shoot through rest? Supposed to make contact?

Maybe its not lined up right?

You are having the problem with field points right?

yes it does it with field points and broad heads. whats weird though it starts off straight, then it makes a sharp turn right, then it straightens back out.... now my arrows are shooting 12+ inches right and im resulting in many broken arrows.:confused2:

move your rest left and move to about 10 yards. When you get it flying good at 10 move to 20 and repeat.

appearing to start off straight is normal.

Also make sure your fletch is not hitting the cable.

Some good advice by Rockport. If you're breaking a lot of arrows then you're shooting too far. Just me but I am familiar with your rest and that's one thing I would dump in a hurry. We give advice about looking for fletching contact, but you are shooting a rest that leaves no doubt.

I'm still going to advise getting help from a shop.

thanks everybody for the input but im not really sure on upgrading my bow now. i might buy a new one.

Did you trying adjusting the rest?

yes but it didnt help much:sad:

didn't help much or didn't help at all?

it did not help at all

You must have something Ive never seen before if you move your rest left and your arrow doesn't move left.

the arrow just keeps fishtailing to the right and lands at an angle in the target

Did the arrow start hitting further left on the target though?

I think we're on the same page. The only Funnel rest I know of is a shoot thru. Fletching has to pass through the funnel. About the same as a Whisker Bisquit in that regard.

finally was able to bring it into the shop today to have someone more expierenced look at it. we had to adjust the sight and the rest. he gave it a full tune up. It shoots good now, thanks for the help everyone

First thing, get rid of your full contact rest. Absolute waste of money, and detrimental to accuracy, not to mention he11 on fletching.

If you do have contact, try Powder Tuning your bow: Get some athlete's foot spray, spray your bow and rest to coat it. Fire one arrow. Examine the powder coat. If your fletching made contact somewhere, it will wipe away the powder. Fix that issue as appropriate.

Bow tuning, or checking the tuning of your bow at least, is very simple. By design, when it is tuned properly, your bow string should push the arrow in a line that passes through the centerline of the bow (shooting to centershot). If it is NOT properly tuned, it will not travel like that, and you'll have flight issues.

Start with your cams/idler lean, aka your cable balance. Measure the axle to axle length on both sides of the bow. If it's longer on one side or the other, you have an issue (cables aren't balanced). If the idler or cam are leaning, you might have an issue. If the measurement is the same, then check the lean. Lay an arrow along the idler wheel, pointing down your string. The arrow should ride basically parallel to the string. Do the same for the cam.

IF your A2A lengths aren't equal, or your cams are leaning, take it to a shop to get the cables adjusted to correct this.

Theoretically, by design, if your cables are balanced properly, the bow should "shoot to centershot", meaning the string travel will point directly through the centerline of the riser.

SO THEN...

Measure with a ruler the exact center of your riser shelf. Adjust your rest to that position.

Paper tune your bow. Set up a paper target at 6-12ft in front of you, with a catch target about 3ft behind it. Shoot through the paper. Examine the shape of the tears.

Gold Tip Paper Tuning Guide

Move your rest according to the tears. Once you shoot perfect holes, move on to walk back tuning to double check. If you're not capable of doing this on your own, take it to a shop to have them do it for you.

You also may be torqueing your bow on the shot, and with that junk rest, you can REALLY throw off your arrow's flight. Having another shooter try firing your bow can eliminate that error, assuming they don't have the same problem.

Out of curiosity, what type of bow is this? Forgive me if this was already mentioned :)

this is a parker challenger. the compound bow, not the more popular challenger crossbow

OK, so now you can pack it up and go hunting, right? Then please do so and leave us alone, LOL. Seriously, go hunting and have fun and ask all the questions you may have. There is one requirement though. If and when you get a deer you owe us some pictures:guiness:.