best weight arrows to use with 50lb bow
#1
best weight arrows to use with 50lb bow
I would like to know what would the best arrow weight ot use with a 50lb bow. right now i have 150s but they fishtail all over the place and i cant seem to get a good group. Are they too light or is it something else
#3
Arrows need to be at least 250 grains. 300 would be better.
This chart should give you what you need.
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_...deflection.htm
Fishtailing all over the place with field points is probably a tuning problem.
This chart should give you what you need.
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_...deflection.htm
Fishtailing all over the place with field points is probably a tuning problem.
Last edited by rockport; 10-29-2013 at 03:45 PM.
#6
150 isn't the grains. Those are 8.06 grains per inch.
If your arrow is 25-27 inches long and has an 85 grain tip its the right arrow or 100 grain tip if you arrow is 25-26 inches. If your arrows are 26 inches with 100 grain tip your in good shape at about 350 grains.
Again though if your fish fishtailing with field points your probably having contact with your fetching somewhere.
If your arrow is 25-27 inches long and has an 85 grain tip its the right arrow or 100 grain tip if you arrow is 25-26 inches. If your arrows are 26 inches with 100 grain tip your in good shape at about 350 grains.
Again though if your fish fishtailing with field points your probably having contact with your fetching somewhere.
Last edited by rockport; 10-29-2013 at 07:33 PM.
#7
As Rockport says, 150 is not the weight of the arrow but the spine designation. The 150 computes to about a 500 spine. Depending on the length of the arrows, point weight, draw length of the bow, cam style, and draw weight these might not be stiff enough. But assuming they are then you need to have your bow properly and tune it to shoot those arrows. Part of the tuning would be to ensure the fletching isn't hitting the rest or cables which could be part of the problem.
I think you need to get to a reputable shop and get some hands on help, unless you know what you're doing. Many guys think mounting a rest, nocking point, and sight on a bow by a shop is tuning, but it's not. Basic setup and tuning are two different things and a shop can help with both.
Another thing a shop can do is help you with learning some decent shooting form. This is a must if you are going to shoot well. A bow is nothing more than a simple machine that uses a block and tackle system. As a machine it will do the same thing for every shot, assuming you shoot it the same. As such, even without being tuned it will shoot arrows to the point. They might fly ugly getting there, but most times if it won't group then it's a problem with the shooter not being consistent.
I think you need to get to a reputable shop and get some hands on help, unless you know what you're doing. Many guys think mounting a rest, nocking point, and sight on a bow by a shop is tuning, but it's not. Basic setup and tuning are two different things and a shop can help with both.
Another thing a shop can do is help you with learning some decent shooting form. This is a must if you are going to shoot well. A bow is nothing more than a simple machine that uses a block and tackle system. As a machine it will do the same thing for every shot, assuming you shoot it the same. As such, even without being tuned it will shoot arrows to the point. They might fly ugly getting there, but most times if it won't group then it's a problem with the shooter not being consistent.
Last edited by BGfisher; 10-30-2013 at 06:09 AM.
#9
#10
yes it does it with field points and broad heads. whats weird though it starts off straight, then it makes a sharp turn right, then it straightens back out.... now my arrows are shooting 12+ inches right and im resulting in many broken arrows.