best weight arrows to use with 50lb bow
#21
I think we're on the same page. The only Funnel rest I know of is a shoot thru. Fletching has to pass through the funnel. About the same as a Whisker Bisquit in that regard.
#23
First thing, get rid of your full contact rest. Absolute waste of money, and detrimental to accuracy, not to mention he11 on fletching.
If you do have contact, try Powder Tuning your bow: Get some athlete's foot spray, spray your bow and rest to coat it. Fire one arrow. Examine the powder coat. If your fletching made contact somewhere, it will wipe away the powder. Fix that issue as appropriate.
Bow tuning, or checking the tuning of your bow at least, is very simple. By design, when it is tuned properly, your bow string should push the arrow in a line that passes through the centerline of the bow (shooting to centershot). If it is NOT properly tuned, it will not travel like that, and you'll have flight issues.
Start with your cams/idler lean, aka your cable balance. Measure the axle to axle length on both sides of the bow. If it's longer on one side or the other, you have an issue (cables aren't balanced). If the idler or cam are leaning, you might have an issue. If the measurement is the same, then check the lean. Lay an arrow along the idler wheel, pointing down your string. The arrow should ride basically parallel to the string. Do the same for the cam.
IF your A2A lengths aren't equal, or your cams are leaning, take it to a shop to get the cables adjusted to correct this.
Theoretically, by design, if your cables are balanced properly, the bow should "shoot to centershot", meaning the string travel will point directly through the centerline of the riser.
SO THEN...
Measure with a ruler the exact center of your riser shelf. Adjust your rest to that position.
Paper tune your bow. Set up a paper target at 6-12ft in front of you, with a catch target about 3ft behind it. Shoot through the paper. Examine the shape of the tears.
Gold Tip Paper Tuning Guide
Move your rest according to the tears. Once you shoot perfect holes, move on to walk back tuning to double check. If you're not capable of doing this on your own, take it to a shop to have them do it for you.
You also may be torqueing your bow on the shot, and with that junk rest, you can REALLY throw off your arrow's flight. Having another shooter try firing your bow can eliminate that error, assuming they don't have the same problem.
If you do have contact, try Powder Tuning your bow: Get some athlete's foot spray, spray your bow and rest to coat it. Fire one arrow. Examine the powder coat. If your fletching made contact somewhere, it will wipe away the powder. Fix that issue as appropriate.
Bow tuning, or checking the tuning of your bow at least, is very simple. By design, when it is tuned properly, your bow string should push the arrow in a line that passes through the centerline of the bow (shooting to centershot). If it is NOT properly tuned, it will not travel like that, and you'll have flight issues.
Start with your cams/idler lean, aka your cable balance. Measure the axle to axle length on both sides of the bow. If it's longer on one side or the other, you have an issue (cables aren't balanced). If the idler or cam are leaning, you might have an issue. If the measurement is the same, then check the lean. Lay an arrow along the idler wheel, pointing down your string. The arrow should ride basically parallel to the string. Do the same for the cam.
IF your A2A lengths aren't equal, or your cams are leaning, take it to a shop to get the cables adjusted to correct this.
Theoretically, by design, if your cables are balanced properly, the bow should "shoot to centershot", meaning the string travel will point directly through the centerline of the riser.
SO THEN...
Measure with a ruler the exact center of your riser shelf. Adjust your rest to that position.
Paper tune your bow. Set up a paper target at 6-12ft in front of you, with a catch target about 3ft behind it. Shoot through the paper. Examine the shape of the tears.
Gold Tip Paper Tuning Guide
Move your rest according to the tears. Once you shoot perfect holes, move on to walk back tuning to double check. If you're not capable of doing this on your own, take it to a shop to have them do it for you.
You also may be torqueing your bow on the shot, and with that junk rest, you can REALLY throw off your arrow's flight. Having another shooter try firing your bow can eliminate that error, assuming they don't have the same problem.
#26
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