what broadhead for FMJ's
 

I am shooting full legenth FMJ with a 340 spine.. my bow is a pse with a 31 inch draw and a 70 lb pull.. I am looking for broadhead sugestions.. please help me out!

You will get recommendations for 100 different broadheads (let me be the first to recommend slick trick magnums 100g.).

All I have to say is find one quick and start shooting with it, the season is only a few weeks away.

Thanks.. i guess i should have worded my question better.. i wanted to know what people with a simular set uvp( lbs, draw, and arrow) were shooting..

My arrow is a bit different, but I shoot 31" draw, 65 lb. I used rage 3 blade 100g for the last few years, shot a couple deer with them, both pass throughs.

I switched to slick trick magnums this year to give them a try, shoot well with my bow, no deer shot (yet) with those.

I chose the slick trick magnums because they are a fixed blade (less chance of failure), they fly exactly like my field points, and I hope to get pass through shots due to the smaller head (better blood trails).

I guess bottom line is that there are a lot of good broadheads out there, and a lot of threads on this site discussing pros and cons of a lot of them.

I think the most important thing is to be sure that you can shoot your broadhead accurately, any broadhead will work with good shot placement.

I'm shooting 125 grain slick trick mags and/or 125 grain viper tricks on my fmj's.

Any broadhead that you can get to fly right. They all do the same thing--slice. If you do have trouble getting anything to fly I'm going to suggest that for 70# and 31" your 340 arrows are underspined so don't expect miracles.

The 340's are what my local shop recomended.. i thought the easton charts saud 300. The 340 are the stiffest they carried. I am going to try to paper tune this weekend and will look for signs of being under spined. Thanks..

125 grain RamCat broadsheads works great for my buddy with the exact same setup.

I see a a few of you suggest 125 grain.. is that for moew KE or to get a good FOC balance?

Hey, I grew up in Bratt. and currently live in Hinsdale!! Could be wrong but wouldn't you be better off with 100 gr. head if spine is on weak side? Iv"e had great luck with Slick Trick standards.

G5 T3 for an expandable but if you don't want an expandable I would shoot a g5 Striker in my opinion it is the best fixed blade broadhead on the market and is made with 100% steel.

OldVt where do you get your bow stuff? I am in Bellows Falls and only know of the bow shop in Claremont.
I was thinking that 100 grain would be pleanty heavy enuff broadhead, but was woundering why more than one person , sugested 125 grain.

125 gr will do both. It'll definitely improve the FOC, but KE won't change that much. However, if your arrows are as underspined asI suspect the heavier head is only going to make matters worse.

The reason KE doesn't change much is that KE is based on both mass and velocity. A heavier head (mass) will slow the arrow down (velocity) so they kind of cancel each other out. It's not something I would even be concerned about. With your bow at 70# and 31" draw you're going to have enough KE to hunt anything walking on this planet.

And it doesn't matter how much KE your equipment produces if it hits the animal sideways due to bad arrow flight.

After your inital post i have been doing more reserch and it does apear that there is a real good chance I am under spined. I am looking for 300 spined arrows. Hopefuly some FMJ'S that look like what i have so the wife wont know I bought new ones :)

I shoot a long draw, and you are definitely underspined at that set-up. With your draw, there is no reason not to cut them, at least a little bit. Even cut, you're going to need 300 spine, the shop can order them I'm sure.

FMJs are fantastic arrows, and I've killed deer with Slick Trick Magnums and Grim Reapers. The Slicks are my absolute favorite fixed head, nothing compares to them in my opion, and Reapers are just devastating. Currently, I've got 2 of each in my quiver.

I am sure they could order me the 300 spine, but I am pretty peved with them right now. I went in and told them my set up and the sold me the 340's sfter looking my specs up on the chart. He could have told me that he did not carry the proper spine and order them fir me, but instead he sold me the under spined arrows instead. This is the owner of the shop and I have been in a few times to have work done to the used bow i picked up. So I wasnt just a one time sale.

That definitely sucks that you got an under spined arrow, but if you lower your poundage( 5-6 lbs) and cut them a bit, they could work just fine for you, at least for this season if you aren't looking to spend another chunk of dough right now. At your draw length, you should be able to cut off ~1.5" of excess. With the hidden inserts, those can be a bit of a b i t c h to get out, but if you heat up a field point, screw it in, then yank with a pliers they can come out pretty well. It's possible, but not likely, that you can cut off enough arrow to get above the insert without removing it.

I have a Monster XLR8 at 70lbs with a 32" draw. I use Axis FMJ's with Stinger Buzzcut broadheads they fly great and are very sharp. Haven't had a chance to stick a deer with them yet but my friend has taken 2 does with them and neither have gone over 30 yards, full pass troughs and his bow is a slow old Hoyt. If you get buzzcuts you wont be disappointed.

Ryndisher, do you have some kind of custom cam on your Monster, to my knowledge they only go out to 30" draw? With my old bow, I shot Muzzy Phantoms, similar to the Stingers, and they did fly well, surprisingly so for a large profile head.

Yoopermike i was woundering if that would help. I will have to figure out how short I can go.. how shaft should have past my rest?

i was thinking the same thing, i have a 11 340 fmj sitting around because of the bad broadhed flight under spined. But if u can find a broadhead to fly good let me know might have to give them a try.

I shoot a bowtech at 31" draw. My arrows are the FMJ 340's 30 inches long.
I shoot 85 grain NAP thunderheads. They fly great, i have no issues with them.

I maesured a arrow in my bow today and with an inch of shaft infront of my drop away rest my arrows can be cut to 29 1/2 inches. thats almost 3 inchest shorter than they are now. if I drop my draw weight down to below 65# my arrows should be spined ok. I checked the charts and it puts them right on the 340 300 line. at least I can hopefuly get a good shooting broadhead for this season and shop around for some 300 for next year.

An inch of shaft is more than adequate in front of the rest. 100 grain broadhead would be my recommendation, the choice of head of course is all yours!

That is what i like to call a typo, haha. It is a 30".

With some work you can get almost any broadhead to fly well, but you have to start out with the basics. That means having an arrow that is properly spined stiff enough for the length and bow weight. Type of cam enters into it, too. With any given draw weight and length a more aggressive cam will require a stiffer arrow.

Then you have to install the broadheads and spin test them to ensure the heads are aligned properly with the shaft. It's not always a mstter of what broadhead you use, but paying attention to all the little details to get one to fly. Some are more finicky than others. These will usually be those with larger blades. IMO the smaller the surface area of the blades the better.

i use the G5 T3 and they are fantastic leave a great blood trail

I have been shooting G5 montecs with mine for a while they shoot great but thinking i will go with rage two blade this year.