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New broadheads, they any good?
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I just got some NAP thunderheads for Christmas, they look nice with a good cutting diameter, looks like the tip will penetrate bone easily. Any of you tried or heard anything of them?
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I heard broadheads
are too hard to use, if you can't hit the broadside of a barn. Makes the shooting difficult.
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They are a good broadhead with a pretty good following. Tune your bow, and they will take down whatever you feel like shooting.
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I shoot the 100 gr. thunderheads and have no need to look any further.
You will be happy with them! |
have used thunderheads since i started hunting. this year i switched, but it was only because i wanted to try mechanicals. you get good penetration and shouldn't be disappointed with the thunderheads
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Buddy at work swears by them, and has taken many nice deer with them.
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Originally Posted by Boogeyman24
(Post 3748800)
have used thunderheads since i started hunting. this year i switched, but it was only because i wanted to try mechanicals. you get good penetration and shouldn't be disappointed with the thunderheads
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I bet I have shot dozens of deer with em. They are old school heads. Razor sharp, great penetration, but they are delicate. Not the best for straightness. I used them for 20 years.
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they're popular and for good reason, they work!
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I tried them, didnt like the way they shot, went to Muzzy next and have been shooting them for the last 18 years. Muzzy makes a great broadhead that shoots great, I never had the need to try anything else.
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I like them, and have had no problems with them. Good basic heads that fly and penetrate great as long as your bow is tuned properly.
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Originally Posted by UPHunter08
(Post 3749172)
I like them, and have had no problems with them. Good basic heads that fly and penetrate great as long as your bow is tuned properly.
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love the thunderheads have always shot the 100 grn great penatration and even had pass throughs very good broadheads you wont be dissapointed.
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Originally Posted by huntingkidPA
(Post 3749376)
i do not have a target that is ment for broadheads, is there a way to make a make shift one because you said you have to tune your bow properly:cry:
Back in the day, I used to get these canvas bags and fill them with old cut up denim, like jean material. It stopped the heads, and I saw where I was hitting. |
Originally Posted by bigcountry
(Post 3749447)
with any fixed head, you have to BH tune the bow. That means BH target.
Back in the day, I used to get these canvas bags and fill them with old cut up denim, like jean material. It stopped the heads, and I saw where I was hitting. |
Is it always possible to tune your bow to put broadheads and target points in the same spot?
My bow was sighted in for field points, and the broadheads were hitting 6 inches left at 20 yards. So I called a pro archery shop, and they said adjust the arrow rest. I asked why this would make the broadheads hit in the same spot as the field points, and they said "it is hard to explain but it just does." So I did what they said, and now my broadheads are on target but my field points are off six inches to the right at 20 yards, just like I figured they would be. |
Thats why I like Muzzys, my 100gr. feild points hit the exact same spot as my 100gr. Muzzys. Shot Muzzys the last 18 years, several different bows with the same results.
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I've killed dozens of deer with Thunderheads. They are a great heads as most NAP broadheads are.
Enjoy! :) Dan |
Originally Posted by Stonewall308
(Post 3749550)
Is it always possible to tune your bow to put broadheads and target points in the same spot?
My bow was sighted in for field points, and the broadheads were hitting 6 inches left at 20 yards. So I called a pro archery shop, and they said adjust the arrow rest. I asked why this would make the broadheads hit in the same spot as the field points, and they said "it is hard to explain but it just does." So I did what they said, and now my broadheads are on target but my field points are off six inches to the right at 20 yards, just like I figured they would be. The reason you move the rest is because the arrow isn't leaving the bow in a straight line, with field points, the fletc corrects this quickly, with BH, the blades fight the vanes so the arrow stays more on the line you start it on. If you are hitting to the left with BH it means you arrow is coming off the bow pointing to the left, so you have to move your rest towards the field point (right) VERY slightly. This will effect both impact points of field points and BH. however they should not be closer together. If so, do it again. If not, put it back. All this assume you are not getting fletch contact with the rest and are getting a clean release, and the arrows are properly spined. to your original question, thunderheads are great, tried and true and pretty easy to get to fly right with field points. |
I have shot 125 gr. and 100 gr. Thunderheads and love them. I have also found if I shoot 125 gr. field pts with 100 gr. broadhead, the arrows have the same point of impact. Don't know why but it has worked with my last two bows.
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I have shot a lot of broadheads in what I call "the old days" (back in the 70's). After all the heads (and I do mean several) I landed on the Thunderhead 100's and they have been my head since that time. I have killed deer, bear, foxes, and turkeys with the Thunderheads and they are tough enough to reuse with blade changes. Recently, I have found the blades not to be as sharp as in the past but they still do their job. They fly exactly with my field points out of my last 3 bows, 2 PSE's and a Mathews. You'll like them.
Jim |
Originally Posted by redmag
(Post 3750075)
I have shot a lot of broadheads in what I call "the old days" (back in the 70's). After all the heads (and I do mean several) I landed on the Thunderhead 100's and they have been my head since that time. I have killed deer, bear, foxes, and turkeys with the Thunderheads and they are tough enough to reuse with blade changes. Recently, I have found the blades not to be as sharp as in the past but they still do their job. They fly exactly with my field points out of my last 3 bows, 2 PSE's and a Mathews. You'll like them.
Jim |
HuntingKid,
If they don't work send them my way. Mine have always shot great (100 gr). Jim |
Originally Posted by fritz1
(Post 3748924)
I tried them, didnt like the way they shot, went to Muzzy next and have been shooting them for the last 18 years. Muzzy makes a great broadhead that shoots great, I never had the need to try anything else.
Went through both lungs and no blood trail at all. My bro was watching me through his binos and saw the whole hunt we both still cannot believe it. |
New broadheads
are made for archers who have already bought ten different kinds of broadheads and never could find the right one.
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Originally Posted by 2 Samuel 22:35
(Post 3750448)
Respectivly Disagree, I lost a nice 4-4 mulie because of muzzy 3-blades.
Went through both lungs and no blood trail at all. My bro was watching me through his binos and saw the whole hunt we both still cannot believe it. |
I use to use thunderheads way back in the 80s when they came out. The newer looking models are pretty much the same as the older ones (have a buddy that still uses them). They are like any head, if they are tuned, they will shoot like a dart. The trick is to get the blades set right so there is no wobble. Something not exclusive to thunderheads, but is the only set back, if you want to call it a set back. I have killed more animals then I can remember with thunderheads. Ive used them with recurves, longbows, and compounds. Never had an issue with them. They will do as well as any three blade head provided your arrow and bow are all tuned right.
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