Not passing threw....Any thoughts?
#41
id switch broadheads allso , magnus 2 blades or the more expensive stingers , if you must shoot a mechanical , vortex pro"s are an excelent design with 1 1/2 inches of cut , alot less demanding than the huge cut surface you are using ,
my avitar was a complete pass thru that stuck in the ground 6 inches , 1000 pound animal , at 25 yards , i shoot 60 lbs and 28 inches , was using g5 strikers , they come scarry sharp from the factory .
my avitar was a complete pass thru that stuck in the ground 6 inches , 1000 pound animal , at 25 yards , i shoot 60 lbs and 28 inches , was using g5 strikers , they come scarry sharp from the factory .
#43
The shots I have been making are about as good as it gets perfect double lung shots i just belive its my broadheads that is my problem, but everyone on here says they get really good pass throughs with 2blade rages, but I have heard you want to shoot a stronger bow to shoot the 2 blades
#44
Not a mech fan, but you need not replace any of your equipment except your arrows and you will be fine. The posts regarding your arrow spine nailed it. If your shot placement is what you say it is, that is your one and only problem.
#47
Went by the bowshop today the guy told me that mostly it is my draw length; he said that I will get more penetration with a longer draw length and that the arrow will have alot more "punch" rather than raising my poundge, I ordered some heavier arrows (10GPI), and he said that with switching arrows and extending my draw length it will punch threw 9/10 deer if I make a good shot.
#48
Went by the bowshop today the guy told me that mostly it is my draw length; he said that I will get more penetration with a longer draw length and that the arrow will have alot more "punch" rather than raising my poundge, I ordered some heavier arrows (10GPI), and he said that with switching arrows and extending my draw length it will punch threw 9/10 deer if I make a good shot.
If draw length were an issue I would never have killed any of the deer I have. My draw length is 26 1/2" give or take a bit and I've shot clear through most of my deer with 315 grain arrows shooting as slow as 237 fps. If memory serves me right this produces about 39 ft/lbs of KE. Very seldom do my arrows not pass through. So anybody that tells you your problem is draw length has been smoking some very good weed.
Getting heavier arrows might help with momentum---if they are spined right and the bow is tuned to shoot them well. KE energy usually doesn't increase with a heavier arrow because the bow shoots it slower. However, the heavier arrow will have a little more momentum which might help.
#50
Regardless of the "rage vs fixed" and "heavy vs lighter" issues in this thread, there are two things that are non negotiable if you want to have optimum performance out of you and your bow.
1. You draw length IS WHAT IT IS. Shooting longer or shorter that what your draw is will cause accuracy problems. In short, don't listen to the moron at the shop.
2. Properly matched arrows in a properly tuned bow, go a long way. If you are too stiff or too soft in spine, you aren't getting the most out of ANY setup. If your BHs aren't hitting with your FPs, something's not right, find it and fix it.
Good luck wading through the BS.
1. You draw length IS WHAT IT IS. Shooting longer or shorter that what your draw is will cause accuracy problems. In short, don't listen to the moron at the shop.
2. Properly matched arrows in a properly tuned bow, go a long way. If you are too stiff or too soft in spine, you aren't getting the most out of ANY setup. If your BHs aren't hitting with your FPs, something's not right, find it and fix it.
Good luck wading through the BS.