newbie overall diagnostic question
 

Sorry for the long post...and for the " newbie" question. I have used the search function, but haven' t found anything comprehensive.

I have been hunting for about 7 years...in actuality about 5 because of a couple years off. In reading through this forum, I realize how uneducated I am about the consistency of my set up. (ie matching bow, draw weight, arrows, arrow weight, etc,) Can anyone tell me if there is anything wrong with my set-up? or anything that can be remarkably improved easily? Anything I shouldn' t use?

(In my 5 seasons, I have shot 3 deer (I have also missed as many), but I think that my set up can be made more consistent). I just started warming up for this season and I am currently shooting 3" groups at 20yds. This is usually where I am at at the beginning of the season but when I am in shape I can usually put my arrows in a 2" group at 30 yards.

Arrows: Beman Carbon Flash 65/80 (I think they are about 30" )
4" fletches
Muzzy 125 grain 3 blade broadheads

Bow: Bear Whitetail (about 10 years old) double cam (65-80lbs) currently set at 67lbs
NAP quick tune 1000 arrow rest
Peep sight with 4 pins (20,30,40,50yds)
TRU Ball Grizzly release
Sims stealth Limb-Saver
TRU Spider silencers
Golden Key Tranquilizer Stabilizer

Moleskin on riser and any other parts that my arrow could accidentally hit if it came dislodged from the arrow rest.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and reply.

Jason

RE: newbie overall diagnostic question
 

Setup sounds fine to me. Your groups aren' t bad. You could tweak it some more if want to tighten it up yet. Are your arrows perfectly straight in the target? You can double check this by doing a paper tune. Setup a paper target to shoot through in front of your present target. It should show perfect holes. Do this with your broadheads also. If you got left,right, hi, or low tears you need some adjusting. Yo u can also check the Forward of Center(FOC) of your arrows for balance. www.bowjackson.com has some info on this, and so does the Easton tuning guide. I also like to check the straightness of all my arrows, especially carbons at both ends. Build yourself a simple double notched jig from wood. Cut out a small V at each end the same. Mark a dot on the wall, and rotate,spin each arrow. Watch it for straightness. Do both point & nock end. The arrows that aren' t perfectly straight ( I always find a couple in a new dozen of carbs) disgard them or use for b.s. shots at home. I save mine for a 3d course extra points, metal target!

RE: newbie overall diagnostic question
 

I dont see anything wrong with your setup, if you are comfortable with it and you obviously shoot it well I wouldnt change it, unless you just tune it better. Your groups seem pretty good and will only improve with practice. Good luck

RE: newbie overall diagnostic question
 

I see nothing wrong with that setup - though I don' t know about spine on those arrows.

Just a few things you can look at to make you and your bow better:

Drawlength - Are you close? right on? Too long or short can cause form and accuracy problems. See a pro shop or do a search here on drawlength, there are a few methods to figure " in the ballpark" drawlengths.

Bow timing: Its an old bow, are the cams timed? are the strings new or old? They will creep and throw the timing out of wack. This will hurt the bows performance and make tuning broadheads much harder. Find the original manual to check all specs on the bow or bring it to pro-shop. A new top quality string and cable can make a great improvement in performance and forgiveness.

Shoot broadheads and shoot them often. Tune the bow to shoot broadheads and practice with them.They are a different beast than field points and need special care. See Eastons website and download their tuning manual - great info!

Are your fletchings offset or straight? feathers or vanes? I would suggest 5" offset feathers for your setup and rest.

Good Luck:)

RE: newbie overall diagnostic question
 

Thanks for all of the help!

I am right on with my drawlength. What do you mean by having my cams timed?

I replace my string every year and have my bow tuned at the bow shop. I have a set of old muzzy broad heads that I use for practice and I only use my new ones for hunting.

Since I am a right handed shooter, I use left helical twist. I am shooting 4" vanes. What difference will feathers make? I currently use vanes because of the rain here in Oregon...I heard that the rain and feathers don' t mix...am I wrong? The rain is only sometimes a factor during the early deer and elk season but it is a big factor for the late season and for my December lotter elk hunt.

I noticed today that when my arrow is knocked and it on the rest, it was tilting up (versus being completely purpendicular to my bow string). I adjusted my arrow rest down so the arrow was purpendicular and it started shooting way low. Should I just increase the tension on my rest or should I move my knock holder on the string and adjust my rest back up?

Also, should I be posting this stuff on the " technical" forum instead of here?

thanks again for all of your help.