Draw Length
 

What is the correct way to measure draw length?

I don't know I'd say any way is a correct way or one that will get you right on all the time. I prefer to use the Wingspan divided by 2.5 for most shooters. This doesn't always get it right on, but it gets in the ballpark, as most other methods do.

Then I suggest to shop for and buy bows that are adjustable for drawlength by either replaceable modules or a rotating module. Very seldom will a new shooter get the correct draw length and most people shooting for years still don't get it right.

Those who shoot target or are dedicated to some form of archery and experiment find that they can vary a little from bow to bow dependent on bow design. Correct draw length is not always a specific measurement taken with a tape or other means. It's found by shooting a bow and finding out just at what setting a bow holds and aims the best. This might mean twisting strings and such, making changes of 1/4" or less. Using this criteria takes time. Sometimes years, and it's usually a lot shorter than people want to shoot.

Draw Length can be determined by a measurement known as 'wingspan.' This is simply a measurement and has nothing to do with how you actually draw back your bow.
How to measure your wingspan:
1) Lean against a wall, standing as close to the wall as possible with back flat.
2) Extend your arms and fingers out as far as possible
3) Have someone make a pencil mark at the end of both your fingers tips
4) Measure this distance

This is your wingspan. Find this number in the chart below to find its matching Draw Length. (For example, a wingspan of 67" would be a draw length of 26")
Wingspan Draw Length
(inches) (inches)
63 24
64 24 1/2
65 25
66 25 1/2

67-----------------------------------------------26
68 26 1/2
69 27
70 27 1/2
71 28
72 28 1/2
73 29
74 29 1/2
75 30
76 30 1/2

CAN YOU DETERMINE YOUR DRAW LENGTH BY MEASURING YOUR WINGSPAN?
This subject appears quite often on archery websites. It starts with a new archer asking how to determine his draw length. Then someone responds by providing a “magic formula” based on one’s wing span: “Stand next to wall, stretch out your arms, and have someone measure the distance between your finger tips. Subtract X, divide by Y, then order your bow.”
I'd never order a bow based on a generic physiological formula. That’ll only get you into the ballpark. As an example, a buddy's wingspan is 2" longer than mine, but he shoots best with a DL 1" shorter than me. Both of us have good form. Arm length and shoulder width might have something to do with it.
Something else I hardly ever see in these "How do I measure my DL?" threads is a discussion of the type of release you use. Some releases (like the Winn glove) hold the string much closer to your hand, while others have a long body with the trigger way behind the jaws, which gives you less power stroke.
General rules I read in an article by Bernie Pellerite: Your shooting eye should be directly above your navel, and your shirt buttons should be in a vertical line.
Grip method (low wrist, high wrist, etc.), stance, use (and length) of D-loop, comfortable & repeatable anchor point, etc., also enter into the equation.
I'd recommend getting an expert coach to observe you shoot. Then experiment extensively to see what works best for you. If your primary emphasis is hunting, better to use a DL a little short than a little too long. This will help you shoot more consistently from field positions and will reduce the chance of the string slapping your forearm.
At the 2007 SCI show I asked Bowhunter magazine’s technical editor how many archers he sees with a DL that’s too long. His answer: “About 50%.” An archery shop owner told me he sees even more than that.
Final tip: Buy a bow with some adjustment range rather than one that’s draw length specific. And never blindly trust the manufacturer’s label! The DL of most bows I’ve purchased have been longer than the label indicated. For example, both of my supposedly 31” Mathews bows were almost 32”. This really affected my form, accuracy, and consistency until someone mentioned that I was stretched out and leaning back at full draw. (That was 11-12 years ago; maybe Mathews has fixed that by now.)