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-   -   Fixed Broadheads (https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/bowhunting/303233-fixed-broadheads.html)

kateraxl2381 09-10-2009 09:27 AM

Fixed Broadheads
 
ive had some trouble through the years finding a fixed bladed broadhead that flew as a field point truely does..ive tried different types of muzzy and thunderheads with little success..does anyone have any suggestions

4evrhtn 09-10-2009 09:32 AM

I shoot the G5 strikers and they fly just as accurately as any mechanical I have tried. I think you would like them.

salukipv1 09-10-2009 09:36 AM

what weight are you using? do you know your arrow weight? bow draw weight? draw length/arrow length etc...?

You may want to try a few different styles, ie 3 blade, 4blad, 2 blade, if you've only tested 2 similar 3blade styles, may not be helpin ya much.

It's nice to have a BH fly like a fieldtip, but if not, just tune your setup for BH's, my muzzys use to fly 3-6" high I think at 30yds.

Can always give Rage 2 blades a try...

NAP razorbaks are pretty sweet too.
maybe give a 1 piece BH a try if you're set on fixed...such as a montec g3 etc...

GFY_Camp 09-10-2009 09:43 AM

Have you ever tuned your bow?

kateraxl2381 09-10-2009 09:51 AM

yeah..my bow is tuned..no whip in the arrows whatsoever..i shoot a 31 and a half inch draw set on 67 pounds..ive been thinking about the rage 2 blade..i just dont know if i trust a mechanical..ive had some bad luck with them in the past..my buddy told me that he shoots the slicktricks and has had success with getting them to fly close to what his fieldpoints do.

grahambow 09-10-2009 11:29 AM

g5 strikers mags for me...........heard lots of good thing about slick tricks flying well..........would like to check out the nap bloodrunners also...

Sniper151 09-10-2009 11:47 AM

I agree with GFY. If your bow is tuned it WILL shoot field tips and broadheads with the same impact point and accuracy.

vaclav 09-10-2009 11:51 AM

Give slicktricks a try, I use 4 blade 100 gr. standard, they really shoot almost exactly like my field points. I have no complaints about them. They are as sharp as broadheads can be, I would know I sliced my finger tightening them on my arrow, had to get 5 stitches. It sliced my finger like butter.

wallhangr 09-10-2009 12:09 PM

Slicktricks, G5 Strikers (or the BP version, Blackouts I believe) Shuttle T's - all are about as close to field points as you can get.

mtlion 09-10-2009 12:19 PM

Shuttle T-Locks are pretty awesome, beat out both the muzzies and montecs I shot previously. my 2 cents anyway

bigcountryok 09-10-2009 12:26 PM

Magnus Stingers work great for me. They are the only fixed blade I've shot so far that group right on top of my field points.

nodog 09-10-2009 02:02 PM

Could be something wrong with the bow, or your release, the wrong arrow, or even bad heads.

4 problems I've had are bad heads, inconsistent arrows, bad cam on bow, poor release. Without question bad arrows have been the number one reason. I can take one and pretty much bore a hole through a back stop, change to another arrow and the impact point will change.

Just got a work it out to the best of your ability. With everything that's against the shooter it's no wonder confidence problems are so prevalent. It most likely ain't you.

Really need some kind of legal action in the hunting industry to force manufactures to sell what they claim if they wont do it voluntarily. The excuses are too many and too much for the top dollar we spend. For the money we should get "Which check needs wiping sir." Can't think of any other industry that charges top dollar that doesn't give a top effort.

zrexpilot 09-10-2009 02:22 PM

what kind of rest do you shoot

kateraxl2381 09-10-2009 03:27 PM


Originally Posted by zrexpilot (Post 3436726)
what kind of rest do you shoot

I shoot a whisker biscuit

zrexpilot 09-10-2009 03:48 PM

I thought so. try a fall away rest, serious

MOhunter46 09-10-2009 03:58 PM

Thers no need to buy a fall away or buy new heads. Learn how broadhead tune you bow until fp's and bh's group together. Take a look at eastons tuning guide, it will explain how to do it.http://www.oregonsportsmans.com/foru...opic.php?t=133
If you still cant get them to group, you probably have a spine or clearance issues. Hope this helps.

zrexpilot 09-10-2009 04:02 PM

or get a drop away

baileym62 09-10-2009 04:16 PM

this is my first year with a bow so for what its worth i pratice with 5 arrows two of them have rage practice tips and they all hit the same group out to 40 yds probley further if i shot it

baileym62 09-10-2009 04:17 PM

i shoot through a hostage rest

kodiakhuntmaster 09-10-2009 04:44 PM

Usually, if the bow is tuned right, BH and FP will fly pretty close to the same. I've noticed a big difference between the two if I was using straight fletching rather than helical fletching. It seems to make a difference to me, that's why I've always used helical fletching.

But arrows are expensive. The Slick Trick BH I tried shot just like my field points, so did the Muzzy three blade broadheads. Rage BH will give you the flight that you want, but I think they're over priced. I've used them before and they worked just fine. Modern mechanical BHs are a lot better than they used to be.

nchawkeye 09-10-2009 04:56 PM

This is kinda like asking for advice about women...No way in heck can someone on this end of the line tell you...

I do know this, Thunderheads and Muzzys shoot to the same point as my field points out of my bow and I shoot a Biscuit and fingers...You may think your setup is tuned and all that but I've shot these things for 40 years and the equipment now is far superior to what we were shooting in the 60s and 70s...Any properly matched bow and arrows can be fine tuned to shoot to the same point as field points...

You need professional help...Ask around about a good bow shop in your area...It may cost a few bucks but if the right man looks at your setup he can fix it...

kateraxl2381 09-10-2009 05:09 PM

thanks for all of the help..i just got back from my buddies house shootin our bows and he had a 2 blade rage practice head and grouped with the rest of my fieldpoints out to 40.all the input was a lot of help btw.i shot my muzzy mx-3s again and they still shoot high.

Kybuckhunter 09-10-2009 06:05 PM

Its just a tuning issue. Fixed heads catch air and will try and guide the arrow from the front. Heres a link that may help you...

http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.html

allmightyhunter13 09-10-2009 08:47 PM

I Swicthed to rage this year but used to use slick Trix... they worked great for me!!

bigbulls 09-10-2009 09:13 PM

#1. You don't need a drop away. The WB is one of the easiest to tune rest made today. Keep shooting the WB.

#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.

#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.

#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.


Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.

kateraxl2381 09-10-2009 10:47 PM


Originally Posted by bigbulls (Post 3437133)
#1. You don't need a drop away. The WB is one of the easiest to tune rest made today. Keep shooting the WB.

#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.

#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.


#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.


Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.


i have spin tested my mx3s and they are fine..ill have to try number 3..thanks bigbulls

drockw 09-10-2009 11:26 PM


Originally Posted by bigbulls (Post 3437133)
#1. You don't need a drop away. The WB is one of the easiest to tune rest made today. Keep shooting the WB.

#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.

#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.

#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.


Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.

Nice! you covered it all for me:rock:

Note on the #4... Using a mechanical just b/c its the only thing that will fly well is like trying to put a band-aid on a knife wound. Just covering up the problem and not really fixing it. You should take a look into the easton tuning guide, and learn how to bh tune your bow, where it will shoot ANY bh out of your bow. You will be much better off in the long run, and it will mean that your bow is really in tune...

Derek

zrexpilot 09-11-2009 08:40 AM

tuning broad heads to field points is not tuning your just making them fly the same.
Tuning would be bare shaft tuning and or paper tuning. Once you do that and then find that broadheads are not flying the same becomes a problem, why would one paper tune only to move things around to get broaheads to fly the same, your just erasing your tuning.
Sometimes they will never fly the same. then you either tune with broadheads or shoot mech.
But for me a drop away fixes all that. I never tuned anybow with a drop away.
Set it up properly with square and center point and start shooting field or broad heads.
Why anyone would choose a biscuit is beyond me, for 20+ years archers have tuned to keep any arrow or fletching contact upon flight now all of a sudden people are choosing full contact rests on arrow flight which is nonsense.

TFOX 09-11-2009 11:08 AM


Originally Posted by zrexpilot (Post 3437545)
tuning broad heads to field points is not tuning your just making them fly the same.
Tuning would be bare shaft tuning and or paper tuning. Once you do that and then find that broadheads are not flying the same becomes a problem, why would one paper tune only to move things around to get broaheads to fly the same, your just erasing your tuning.
Sometimes they will never fly the same. then you either tune with broadheads or shoot mech.
But for me a drop away fixes all that. I never tuned anybow with a drop away.
Set it up properly with square and center point and start shooting field or broad heads.
Why anyone would choose a biscuit is beyond me, for 20+ years archers have tuned to keep any arrow or fletching contact upon flight now all of a sudden people are choosing full contact rests on arrow flight which is nonsense.


DO NOT TUNE TO PAPER,use paper to CHECK tune.If you have feildpoints and broadheads impacting the same,you should have a good tear.If not,you either torque the bow or have some type of problem withinn the bow.Maybe even bad arrows.


Paper is great but you must understand the info it feeds you and not just go adjusting the rest around to get a good tear.

I even use a bareshaft through paper at the beginning,then walk back,then on to group tuning (for target)or broadhead tuning for hunting.

I get bullet holes and bareshaft hit the same as fletched out to 20.

I agree about the WB,it is a pain when it comes to paper.

burniegoeasily 09-11-2009 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by kateraxl2381 (Post 3436362)
ive had some trouble through the years finding a fixed bladed broadhead that flew as a field point truely does..ive tried different types of muzzy and thunderheads with little success..does anyone have any suggestions

Your problem is you have untuned equipment or have a form issue. If your arrows are tuned and of proper spin, as well as having a tuned bow, you will have no problem. I have never had a problem with any fixed head out of compound, longbows, or recurves in 25 years.

Ive used mechanicals, but do not care for the penetration. Well, except for turkey. I feel too many people use mechanicals as a quick fix for tuning problems.


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