wv bow hunter

Just wanting some opinions on what everyone thinks is the best way to tune your bow for broadheads.

5 shot

first I paper tune my bow for bullet holes at 3,7 and 12 feet. I then make sure I shoot helical fletched arrows and that every single broahead tipped arrow spins perfectly without wobble. It may help if all the broadheads are aligned the same, not necessarily with fletching but that each is oriented the same. If you have good arrows, and enough fletching you should get good broadhead flight using my method

GMMAT

1. Choose the BH weight you want to shoot....and add in any inserts you'll be employing.

2. Make sure your arrow is spined correctly for the tip weight.

3. Ensure center shot is correct.

4. Micro-adjust arrow length and bow draw weight to ensure optimal arrow flight.

These are the steps I would take.....were I shooting a compound bow.

The Rev

I have never tuned a broadhead, I tune my bow.

GMMAT

A tuned BOW will not shoot every arrow/BH true. "Tuning" is a marriage between a properly tuned bow/arrow combination.

Sooner State Hunter

I tend to agree with this statement. In my experience, if my bow is tuned (via paper, walkback, group, bareshaft, etc.) then the POI between bh's and fp's will be very close to the same.

TFOX

Arrow tuning is as important if not more important than bow tuning and broadhead tuning falls under both categories.

BGfisher

I would tend to agree with GMMAT. Although there are certain things you can do to fine tune an arrow, such as playing with point weights and fletching types, cutting the arrows down a little bit at a time and such, there is only so much the average guy can do. Most do not have an arrow cut-off saw or fletching jig to do some of this.

Some people use computer programs to get a specific arrow length to fine tune spine, but these don't show the variables induced into the system by the shooter. Hand position and possible torque for example. Too little or too much FOC which casues problems down range, something peper tuning can't show. Computer programs only can handle numbers, not shooters. And numbers are just that--numbers. Anybody with some experience can do much of this figuring just using comon sense.

The bow, on the other hand, is almost infinitely adjustable. Nocking point for vertical, centershot for horizontal. Tiller an be adjusted. Draw weight can be used (Often overlooked) to fine tune for arrow spine. This latter adjustment is often overlloked as people are afraid to lower the bow's poundage as they have some testosterone problems. The limb bolts can be used to adjust poundage up or down to fine tune andit's a lot quicker, easier and cheaper than buying vanes, points, or new arrows. And here again, poundage is just a number

So, a person can make certain adjustments to the arrows (pain in the ass) and tune the bow. The two have to work in unison.

As for tuning, I rarely paper tune unless I really have problems. I like to bare shaft tune out to 30 yards or so. The less work fletching has to do the better the setup. This usually gets the ball rolling but I'll walk back tune, french tune, group tune, tiller tune and broadhead tune (Eastons Tuning Guide) for a hunting setup. Whatever I have to do. I don't get hung up on one method. Often I'll use several methods just to confirm the results of another.

THEN I'll change something just to start over again.