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Rage mechanicals
I was wondering if anyone had a couple of the rage mechanical practice heads they arent using anymore that theyd be interested in passing down the line. Im interested in purchasing the Rages but want to try before I buy.....any help would be appreciated.
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Tony, I think I have a couple laying around.
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Awesome Noah, bring em to work asap or if you go home for lunch today lol. wait why didnt i just walk across the office and tell you.....doh!
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Originally Posted by wis_bow_huntr
(Post 3385299)
wait why didnt i just walk across the office and tell you.....doh!
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lol....I will have them for you by this Monday or Tuesday for sure!
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Now we need to know what line of work you guys are in!
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Originally Posted by louddrummer69
(Post 3385378)
Now we need to know what line of work you guys are in!
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Speaking of Rage Mechanicals, and I know last year this topic was slightly abused, but i have done my yearly tune and took 9 gold tip 7595, same inserts, etc. to my range and shot them all at 30 yards.
By the way, I was shooting my Hoyt Viper tec at 70#'s with Gold tip 7595 and all BH's were 100 grains. |
Hoyt...
That tells me you weren't tuned to THOSE heads. What's your arrow spine? Have you bare-shafted? Ends of shafts squared? Center shot correct? BH's spin tested? There is SO much more to "They fly just like field points" than most will ever know. |
I have been debating on purchasing and shooting Rage broadheads but haven't. I have heard from a few people that when they shoot them, some of them do not open very well. Has anyone had this probably? Could it have been from when Rage first came out and they have fixed that problem? Thanks
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I have shot many deer with rage BH and have never had a blade not open. I shoot the 3 blade and with my setup I dont have to change any thing on my bow. Just change from field points to BH and they shoot the same.
I will not even try a different head now that I have shot RAGE heads. You can also switch the practice head over to a hunting head if you buy extra blades, I had to and I worked great. |
Jeff,
For a while I was a bit underspined with the 5575"s and went up to the 7595"s (10.2 gr/in and .340"spine). I did not adjust my sites for either, just shot as is, so I didnt have the BH's spun tested, however did have ends of shafts squared, but my point was to do as little as possible to get true flight from my specific set up. I wont argue that there are so many variables, but with my set up and rig, the ultimate BH seemed to be the Rage Mechanical 100 grain 3 blade. I would actually like to shoot the Muzzy 3's but even after several attempts at tuning my new Apex 5 pin sight to that BH i never got a consistent pattern like I did with the mechanicals. Its obvious to me that there is just so much more of drag or "flight control" with fixed blades. I know we went over this a trillion times last season, but after having new strings and properly tuned, the Rage shoots exactly like they claim...a FP. It may not be that way with higher speed bows, arrow shafts, etc. but Im sold and wont change my mind with not only the accuracy but the devestation of the 2 inch cuttting diameter when deployed. I hope we get a chance to cross paths this year, I just picked up another 300 acres of 20% pasture/80% hardwood land in a very remote spot that hasnt been hunted in years, according to owner. The spring rains have made incredible ag fiels this year with the soybeans and corn, so Im stoked. My own clover plot is mid calf high and my other turnip plot is all dug up already. Stands are up, and cameras out, and unlike last year I have no need to set foot back in there until opening day. Regards |
If your bow is set up right... Just about any decent fixed blade broadhead will shoot great... If your having prob with broadhead flight then you really need to mess with your bows tuning more... Bottom line... No mechanical broadhead is ever going to out perform a GOOD fixed blade broadhead like a Muzzy...;)
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Jeff:
Good luck on your new land... The thing about a compound bow is....a fletched arrow can be manipulated to hit where your sight's pointing, even if it's not tuned to your setup. That's the beauty and the curse of compouinds. It's REALLY easy to get FP's hitting where your pin is........tuning be damned. You don't tune a sight to a BH. If anything, you'd set your center shot and tune your bow without sight.....then put it on, later. If you get the properly spined arrow; proper length; proper tip weight; proper DW; BH spinning true.......it'll go where your pin is (or, as close as you can put it there). Putting a mechanical on your arrow because you can't get the fixed head to fly straight is a band-aid over a potential deep cut. Trust me.....I've been there. Only offering this up. No criticism, here. Good luck to you. |
Jeff,
I hear ya, and understand the scientifics of the intense working of spines, shaft spinning, etc., my only comment was without a doubt, right out of the box the Rage is by far the choice for me. I could spend a ton of money and time with the physics and equipment to work hard at tuning other BH's to work well enough to hunt with, but the comment was simply to comment on the consistency of the Rage vs others. I could invest in all of the vises, spinnners, fletching devices, etc., but when it comes down to taking something out of the package and screw it to the tip of the arrow of my choice and have a high 90%'s of accuracy....there is nothing else to argue. True there are the geometrics, weights, spinning, tuning, spines, and everything else a true competetor in archery would do for tournaments, but Im out to drop some venison and what I commented on was that undoubtedly my choice was what I mentioned. If I ever get to compete against the best in 3D and inside archery tournaments with $2000 bows and $300 arrows, I would ceratinly see your side and points of aggressively achieving maximum output of my equipment. I climb trees with my bow, walk through mud, often drop or snag it on a branch or two, climb into my stand and sit and wait for a shot at a lung or two, and whether or not I have spent many hundreds of $ at a pro shot or not, my rage will seek its target with basic equipment, very accurately, right out of the package. Simply my point |
Jeff....
It's MOST important in a hunting situation, where penetration is paramount. If all you're worried about is hitting where your sight's looking (target situation), you don't really need to be in tune. Good luck. |
I have no idea what all yall r talking about. Sounds like either a war over who knows the most or one of u is old school and hates to admit that archery is not as complicated as it used to be. I just shoot my bow 1000's of times and get it as accurate as I'm capable of getting it and go to the woods.. I hate to say it but mechanical broadheads have made that easy on guys like me... But that's all I've gotta say ill let my shootin speak for me cause in the end if u hit where your aiming that's the only thing that counts!
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Cannon...
That's a common opinion. But, it doesn't make it right (simply hitting where you're aiming). You can do that with a bow that's not even close to being in tune.....and no matter which head's on the business end, it'll affect performance.....sometimes in a big way. This isn't anything new. |
Not to get back to the original area of this post, but how many of you Rage users made your practice heads into real ones. It can be done fairly easily.
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I found one of the heads lying around, this week. If you want it, Wis...let me know and I'll send it to you.
They will fly "just like your FP's", though. Always did, for me. My point was...."just like your FP's" doesn't mean squat.....if they're not flying optimally. The importance of true flight is compounded when you put the blades up front and shoot at animals. What I know of this is due to trial and ERROR. I'd just like to see less people make the mistakes I did. |
Originally Posted by wis_bow_huntr
(Post 3385299)
Awesome Noah, bring em to work asap or if you go home for lunch today lol. wait why didnt i just walk across the office and tell you.....doh!
HAHAHA, I love it. Sounds like you've got quit the drive o go get them. Do you think maybe he can mail them out to ya. I love it. LOL |
You can, and should, tune your bow with nothing more than your current arrows. You absolutely do not need to spend hours or money to do it, just a little time and effort. To say it takes money, elaborate equipment and huge amounts of time is either a weak excuse or ignorance.
I am constantly amazed at the number of "hunters" that don't care to know how their equipment works, how to take care of their equipment or know how to use it properly. |
The only "RAGE" your going to have is your temper. Well in my case that is what it was. I wounded two buck's one that would have made P&Y (well that is what I tell people) two years ago. I hit a rib and deflected under the skin towards the shoulder. I will say it left about a 8 inch cut. After hitting two buck's with the rage I wasn't happy. The other buck I hit in the shoulder and bent the blade to a perfect 90 degree's. I ended up shooting that buck during gun season. Any ways Im sticking with slick tricks.
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Rob,
I see this going in circles. I had my bow tuned by a respectable archery pro shop, new string, paper tuned at 5, 10, and 15 yards. Had some minor adjustments with my knocking point being slightly low, added d loop, etc. I did the three different BH's after my tuning, and even adjusted my APEX 5 pin as much as I could tolerate with each fixed BH, with the results that I posted. I've heard both sides of the alignment of fletching and in some ways flight is a science and if the difference is that much betwen fletching and fixed blade its either going to spin more than needed, or "steer" the BH. I dont need someone to tell me that a 1 1/2" 3 blade BH will not tend to "steer" or if WAY out of alignment with fletching will spin more than anyone desires. I like the tucked blades of a mechanical, the cutting diameter, and thats my choice. Regardless of doing this, that , or the other to adequately make a fixed BH do the same. After a tuned bow, shooting these three BH's, there was WAY too much changing my pins on my sight. Sure, I could always aim 3 inches left and high if I want to hit my mark, but I just want to hunt...and im not into 3d tournamaents or archery tournaments, so the underlying factor is what kills when I put my pin on the vitals. 90% of everyone who shoots the rage praise the accuracy, the other 10% complain of deflection. I will take my chances with the 10%, and Rob...I do and always have read and respected your knowledge and keen advice, but I belive unless something else comes along....Rage is my choice. FYI...In all actuality, to answer your other question, the paractice head is very similar to a real one except the blades are dull, and crimped tighter to not expand. After shooting mine into my BH target several times, a few "blades" have opened enough that I could take the dull blades and sharpen them or even replace with relacement blades.....then my practice BH is a hunting BH! |
Rob,
I see this going in circles. I had my bow tuned by a respectable archery pro shop, new string, paper tuned at 5, 10, and 15 yards. Had some minor adjustments with my knocking point being slightly low, added d loop, etc. I can assure you that you didn't take it to anyone who knew more of what they're talking about than Rob. He's (neither is Bruce or myself) not making this stuff up or "winging it", Jeff I did the three different BH's after my tuning, and even adjusted my APEX 5 pin as much as I could tolerate with each fixed BH, with the results that I posted. I've heard both sides of the alignment of fletching and in some ways flight is a science and if the difference is that much betwen fletching and fixed blade its either going to spin more than needed, or "steer" the BH. Jeff...I've never heard of one spinning TOO much. Spin is your friend (poet and didn't know it). Bigger the BH....more you want it spinning. Spin = stable in flight. I dont need someone to tell me that a 1 1/2" 3 blade BH will not tend to "steer" or if WAY out of alignment with fletching will spin more than anyone desires. If you think spin is a BAD thing.....well...yes, you do. I like the tucked blades of a mechanical, the cutting diameter, and thats my choice. And a fine choice it is....in the proper circumstances. Rob shoots them (mechanicals). In the hands of the right archer, they're devastatingly lethal. I've never seen anything to beat them. What bothers me (and others) is when hunters use them as a band-aid to cover up tuning issues. It's unfortunate and easily remedied. Regardless of doing this, that , or the other to adequately make a fixed BH do the same. After a tuned bow, shooting these three BH's, there was WAY too much changing my pins on my sight. Jeff....this statement doesn't juve. You don't tune a BOW, only. You tune a setup. Your arrow/BH choice is part of the tuning equation. The width of a BH can affect flight (and therefore affect setup.....tune). Length of BH can affect arrow dynamic spine. My personal opinion is...you can't have a bow/arrow combo that is "perfect" for every BH out there (even in the same weight). Can you get close? Of course. And, you can get close enough that the adjustments you were having to make indicates you WEREN'T (close). Sure, I could always aim 3 inches left and high if I want to hit my mark, but I just want to hunt...and im not into 3d tournamaents or archery tournaments, so the underlying factor is what kills when I put my pin on the vitals. If you're shooting 3D, it really doesn't matter if you're optimally in tune. WHo cares if your arrow is fishtailing a little of porpoising a little......if it hits where your pin is each shot???? We tune our hunting setups to get true arrow flight when it counts. 90% of everyone who shoots the rage praise the accuracy, the other 10% complain of deflection. I will take my chances with the 10%, and Rob...I do and always have read and respected your knowledge and keen advice, but I belive unless something else comes along....Rage is my choice. I killed several deer with the head, Jeff (12 or more). It's a GREAT head. Was I optimally tuned for it EVERY time? NO! I know that, now. I'm not preaching to you. I'm trying to get you to realize that there's no reason you shouldn't be (tuned, correctly). There isn't a person in here that wouldn't help. Rob's where I'd start. Ditto Bruce. I won't speak for Rob....but my guess is he won't be steering you away from the Rage head, either. I suspect, out of the right setup, he's a fan. Good luck. FYI...In all actuality, to answer your other question, the paractice head is very similar to a real one except the blades are dull, and crimped tighter to not expand. After shooting mine into my BH target several times, a few "blades" have opened enough that I could take the dull blades and sharpen them or even replace with relacement blades.....then my practice BH is a hunting BH! Jeff... Did you buy these new? The factory rage practice head is blue and doesn't have blades. It also WILL NOT open. |
Jeff, Yes the head was blue, and a test head. After so many shots through my BH target, two of the "blades" actually started to open. I will post a picture of the latest one below.
Im not arguing a bit about your response either. I believe I made my point clear of the reason for my decison, but you misunderstood, I was darn close with each BH shot, just not deadnuts like the BH I am shooting, nor comfortable enough with a shot from a treestand with .3 seconds to react, draw and shoot. Never did I discredit Rob, in fact, I praised his experience and knowledge. Im simply speaking my reasons and why they were made. BTW, my whole rig was tuned 100% from last year and attempted to tune the setup with the three BH mentioned, just w/o much success. Maybe you could have better luck doing it with my rig, maybe not, but I am done at the practice range for the year. my hunting rig is set and ready to slay with the best combo that I could come up with with my novice tuning abilities. As I mentioned earlier, I would love to shoot the Muzzy 3 but never could get the accuracy I desired while doing my "novice tuning" I really do appreciate your input, so please dont take any sarcasm or disrespect from my replies. Its just what I am most comfortable with, and most importantly, comfortable I wont be killing ants or wounding any deer this year! Here is a test head I could easily turn into a killing head! ![]() |
Jeff:
If you're set...you're set. But if I were you....and I REALLY waned to shoot the Muzzy 3's.....I'd be PM-ing Bruce and Rob (and Tfox, et. al.) and following their instructions. It's not that difficult.....and it would benefit you no matter which head you decided to shoot. Good luck to you. |
Thanks Jeff,
I really do appreciate your input, and wish the best of luck this year. Im hoping to see you with a wall hanger this year. Seriously, I have so many different parcels to hunt, totalling now to close to 1000 acres with sole lease, you should make an excuse to get up here for a weekend, or hell even an afternoon hunt or two. You are always welcome. What did you think about that practice head? I bet I can get replacement blades and put them in, or even put tips on the "pretend blades, and sharpen to an extent. But I wouldnt do that until I shot all six of my arrows and had one i my pack. still as accurate though. I had to put a rubber o-ring just to shoot my practice head! |
Originally Posted by Mr. Longbeard
(Post 3386448)
If your bow is set up right... Just about any decent fixed blade broadhead will shoot great... If your having prob with broadhead flight then you really need to mess with your bows tuning more... Bottom line... No mechanical broadhead is ever going to out perform a GOOD fixed blade broadhead like a Muzzy...;)
Maybe over the top mechanicals but certainly not Rage. |
[quote=stabnslab_WI;3387085]The only "RAGE" your going to have is your temper. Well in my case that is what it was. I wounded two buck's one that would have made P&Y (well that is what I tell people) two years ago. I hit a rib and deflected under the skin towards the shoulder. I will say it left about a 8 inch cut. After hitting two buck's with the rage I wasn't happy. The other buck I hit in the shoulder and bent the blade to a perfect 90 degree's. I ended up shooting that buck during gun season. Any ways Im sticking with slick tricks.[/qu
Sorry to tell you that when you hit the shoulder it is a "you" problem not the BH. And how do you know on the first one that it hit a rib and deflected under the skin. Did you find the deer? And remember, a lot of strange things can happen like the deer maybe twisting or turning on your shot. |
I love my rages I have been shooting them for 2 years , and they tear up deer . Like Chuck Adams said "It's like throwing an axe through a deer".
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