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ORIGINAL: virginiashadow

Yes Bruce that was me---I mean I don't like to get caught up debating over "ethical" arrow weight and all ad naseum--it just gets old. What never gets old is talking about how to get my groups tighter. I believe I am shooting around #65 and shooting 400 Bemans. Thanks for any help all.

Kodiak--once every 4-5 shots probably--cant figure it out....I do grip my bow a little tighter than most.

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ORIGINAL: KodiakArcher

Could be a few things changed in your rig from last year such as cam timing and poundage due to cable/string wear. If they are a new type broadhead they could effect the balance of the shaft differently. For the situation you describe, tuning my RH bow, I would very slightly (.050" or so at a time) move the rest to the right (in toward the bow) until they start grouping together.Very small changes will move the broadhead groups more than they move the fieldpoint groups and at some point they should impact very close to the same point. In addition, your groups should tighten up as you get things more finetuned.

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ORIGINAL: wis_bow_huntr

I have a similar issue with my Muzzy Mx4s on my carbons, I talked to my proshop and Mike said its a plaining issue. You need to sight your bow in for the broadheads or use a mechanical style head.

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ORIGINAL: KodiakArcher

Could be a few things changed in your rig from last year such as cam timing and poundage due to cable/string wear. If they are a new type broadhead they could effect the balance of the shaft differently. For the situation you describe, tuning my RH bow, I would very slightly (.050" or so at a time) move the rest to the right (in toward the bow) until they start grouping together.Very small changes will move the broadhead groups more than they move the fieldpoint groups and at some point they should impact very close to the same point. In addition, your groups should tighten up as you get things more finetuned.

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ORIGINAL: virginiashadow

Bruce:

"If it is once every 4-5 shots it could be grip, as stated, or it could be that one arrow. Mark your arrows with some numbers, dots, lines, or something to distinguish each one and then you will know if it is the same arrow evrytime or a different arrow. It it is a different arrow each time then it could be grip. I still think your arrows may be a little weak spined for even 65#. What bow do you shoot? "

What spine would you recommend for me? I shoot a Reflex Excursion 2004. I just played around and put on some heavier broadheads today and shot....and they seemed to group tighter and not have the side to side inconsistency. Maybe it was just a placebo effect, not sure. Refletched a bunch of my arrows tonight and gonna get back at it tomorrow.

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ORIGINAL: RobinAim Low

Absoluely not!Nothing personal wis-b-h, but if a broadhead tipped arrow is planing, then you have a tuning issue that needs to be corrected correctly. Moving a sight is not the answer, and just throwing on a mechanical is not either.I just cannot express enough the importance of a straight flying arrow when it comes to hunting. You are cheating yourself and the animal you hunt ifyou hunt with anything less.


In fact, there is a thread floating around here about why be anti-mechanical, and that right there is why I am anti-mechanical, because too many hunters throw on a mechanical instead of tuning their bow for good arrow flight.

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ORIGINAL: ScottF2345

I had the very same problem. My Muzzy's weren't flying like my field points. With the season being this close, I decided to pick up some 2 blade Rage's. They flew just like my field points. I'll go with the Rage's this year, and really work on my bow next year to make sure everything is tuned up well. I just don't want to mess around with my setup this close to the beginning of the season. My guess is that you are having the same problem I was.

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