davidmil

Then you've owned the wrong bows, the wrong arrow, the wrong broadheads or some other flaw in tuning. A few inches, God I'd die and run to Len or someone for help if they were a few inches off. And all you people that worry about a broadhead that may be at MOST 1/4- 1/2 inch longer and therefore creates a new set of physical maladies to be corrected. Heck, your form is more a problem than a 1/4 inch longer arrow. The FOC that someone mentioned is POINT something different. Now a crooked point is an entirely different story. A crooked arrow is an entirely different story. Before you ever screw on a broadhead you should be discarding arrows as far as hunting. My arrows shoot better than I do and INCHES low and left is not a result of a broadhead. It's arrow, head and tuning. I for one wouldn't throw out what has worked for many on the basis of one mechanical machine. Was it tuned? POI the same, a half inch out, is it in a bullseye? etc If you hit a standard bullseye at 02, 30, 40yards repeatedly ....it's good. It doesn't have to hit the same hole because most of us are not that good. Yes, they can and should be the same. IF you feel a real need to make an adjustment for broadheads it better be to get them out of a quadrant in the bullseye to center and not be from trying to get them in the bull.

TFOX

That is a machine,if the centershot is off,results from a human will differ greatly.

Arrows will spray left to right with field points if the centershot is off,and the results are worse for broadheads.

Doegirl75

I see what you're saying.
Like you said earlier in this post they only paper tuned, that's not "tuning". The center shot could be off for the test bow. But the effects are minimized (or hidden) by the machine.
I guess what I was trying to get at is that an aweful lot of conclusions were being drawn from just one shot. It's not a fair test.

FLHunter

Interesting thread alot of information passing back and forth.

Taking a field point off and adding a broadhead to the arrowshaft changes the arrow! The broadhead weakens the arrowspine simply by the fact that it lengthens the arrow. If the hunter decides to shoot a heavier weight broadhead than the fieldpoint weight it further complicates the new equation.

When tuning for broadheads you've got choices. Find the correct spined shaft for the broadheads your shooting. Decrease poundage to bring the arrowspine in on your existing shafts when shooting broadheads. Shorten the broadhead arrow shafts, or shoot a lighter broadhead than the fieldpoint weight to stiffen the spine.

Not all arrowshafts are created equal!!!!! One would be extremely lucky to find all twelve arrowshafts in a dozen to shoot broadheads well. Culling for hunting arrows I find is important and it may take a couple dozen or more shafts to get what you want. I also find that indexing your nock during the test process pays off to find the most favorable side of the shaft to launch from. Shafts have stiff and soft sides the spine can vary quite a bit from one side of the shaft to the other. Having a spine testor is a great tool to have in finding out exactly where the spine values are at from the get go.

Personally I have two sets of arrows, those for hunting kept in a case and then field arrows. I don't try to do both with one set of arrows. This saves time in not having to constantly re-tune, I'm always hunt ready.

Yes my field arrows impact with or very close (as good as I can shoot) to my broadhead arrows. I don't have to detune or change my bow going from one to the other.

DeerStalker80

Well here is myhonest opinion and observation if you set up the bow right, then paper tune and bare shaft tune you can achieve broadhead and fp shooting the same. Not dead on the same but I also may take this a little to far I shoot a bowtech guardian 69lbs26 inch draw lengthgoldtip 3555 cut at 24 3/4 or maybe its 25 3/4 not sure written down at home. with quickspins 100grain tips and the broadheads bladesand vanes line up perfectly the arrows are perfectly squared front and back before inserting knocks or inserts. Then the insert is squared. They shoot close enough that i cant tell a difference out to 50yds but yet I can shoot fp and mechanicals time after time in the kill zone on my 3d deer yet there are the hand shacks and the every know and then hand torque that will send a fixed blade broadhead off course wind and everything plays into this. You can get it close enough but I just Cant do it consistantly enough to feel confindent in my fixed blades. All it take is 1 bad shot and the wrong time and thats the difference from clean kill and wounded suffering animal.

davidmil

That would depend on the broadhead. If you use a short broadhead like a Shuttle T, well it doesn't change it enough to throw arrows out by inches or even close. If they don't hit very close to the same, you aren't tuned.