I have always just bought replacement blades because I dont believe I can get them as sharp as new.If you sharpen your blades whatmethod and tool do you use todo it?

A very successful bowhunter once told me, he prefers less than razor sharp broadheads. not dull, but not brand new, believing a surgical cut from a sharp broadhead can cause less bleeding or the wound to seal up better since its a perfect slice, rather have a jagged cut/ or one forced through than cutting through. Something to consider, Now i dont worry about having a brand new broadhead thats razor sharp, usually keep a few for ongoing practice, then switch over to soem new ones and take a few shots, then use, so theyre not brand new after hitting the target a few times, but not worn either.

I totally disagree with what your saying about not shooting sharp heads and that a sharp cut won't bleed as good as a tear cut will, not true! I wouldn't go around telling people what you just said. As for me I don't shoot a BH that has replaceable blades. I resharpen mine with white crock sticks and or a diamond stone. They work well for me.

Im with Schultzy, the sharper the better. I sharpen my own!

Im with you guys I want my blades to be like a scalple.If a shot presents itself at 50 yards I thinkI would have to have razor sharp blades for a clean pass through.I guess a good question would be is it worth sharpening replacement blades?

No comprimise, must replace!

A nick shaving will bleed forever.

Resharpen and touch up constantly.
I use a reddi edge or razor rack - LIGHT(almost no)pressure for touch up.

Steve

There are only a very few factory replacements I find sharp enough to hunt with out of the box: Most of NAP's blades, the blades on the old Gold Tip Centurion, and Innerloc's blades. I still, at the very least, strop them very lightly on a ceramic rod or impregnated leather; especially after they ride in the quiver a little while.

I sharpen mine. I sharpen with a carbide sharpener. I hate these for knives, but it seems to straighten a lightly dinged broadhead blade. IMHO, broadheads need a different kind of sharp than my knives. For a knife, I work hard to get "fat V" profile to give the edge a longer life. This "fat V" profile is hard to roll over. Edge roll, flat spotting and rippling(sine curve along the length) are dullness. For a "one time use" blade like a broadhead, I like hollow ground or a true V. I just take the blades out of my broadhead and work the flat spots and ripples out of them. Sometimes I use a file to nock a heavy burr off like when I hit metal in a target![:@]

Even new razor sharp blades I usually hit the leather a little, but most of the time I start with new blades. Once they go through a deer I trash them. I guess if I didn't have instant access to new blades it might be different, but I would more than likely plan ahead and have a few on hand.

Dan