Wisconsin Buck Slayer

I bought a dozen arrows last year to last me a while, bad idea #1, and decided to have the fletchings spiraled (can't remember what its called now), bad idea #2. Now that one fletching on 8 of the arrows is worn down really bad, i decided to just go get 2 more so I'd have 6 arrows for video shoots. But I got ones without the spiral, HOW WILL THIS HURT MY SHOOTING? I'll only be shooting 20 yds. all the time now, but how will it affect my shooting, if at all. Or am i better going with some worn up old arrows? Any advice is awesome, even if you don't know but just have a guess. Thanks

pdq 5oh

If you're saying you will be going from helical to straight vanes, I don't think it will change much. That's assuming you're shooting field points. I use helical vanes on my arrows with broadheads, and straight/offset with field points. Point of impact is the same for my setup.

Phil.
&quot;Could you guys be quiet, my dad's trying to shoot.&quot;<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>

Trushot_archer

Shouldn't be an issue if your tuned-up. Mine impact in the same place at 20 from hard 4&quot; helical feathers to straight 3&quot; vains. 35-40 is a slightly different story...

If it's just the fletching that's worn, why not just re-fletch. I could have my pro shop re-fletch a dozen cheaper than buying 2 more! Just a thought...

Merry Christmas!

Trushot }}------>

trufire

If you are wearing a fletching then you are contacting something.
Chances are you may be hitting a little off after the fletching starts to clear correctly.

nodose

it will absolutely make a difference. it may not make a difference to the average shooter in a hunting situation w/a semi tuned bow that is only concerned w/putting 5 out of 6 arrows into a pie plate at 20yds. however when you get down to the technical aspect of shooting and making the perfect shot then it makes a difference. you should set your equipment up and tune yourself so that you're not satisfied w/putting 5 out of 6 in a pie plate....you should strive to be so tuned that if you shoot 5 arrows you have to shoot them at 5 different pie plates for fear of ruining your arrows. become an extention of your equipment. LOL that last part sounds kinda disgusting. yeah that was a bit of a rant...LOL but my point is...ahhh what was my point, oh yeah it makes a difference. if your fletching is wearing off then your bow isn't tuned correctly.



Edited by - nodose on 12/24/2002 01:08:42

jimmya

i agree, shoot paper and see. i think you will find a tear in the paper.

BOWFANATIC

Doesn't make a bit of difference with my setup and thats shooting quarter sized dots at 20 yards. As long as their the same length and same fletching (feathers or vanes) , it wont make a difference at 20 yards.

<---Doug---<<<

Paul L Mohr

If every thing else is equal, the bow is tuned well, and you have good form and shoot with a release aid, switching from one to the other should not make a difference. Especially at close distances with practice points. A helical or offset would be nice with a fixed blade head, although you can tune a bow to shoot fixed heads with straight vanes if you work at it.

But, and the big but here is your bow is not tuned correctly. Could you give some specifics on your set up. I am going to guess you are shooting carbon arrows with a prong rest of some sort. Let us know what your set up is. Draw length, arrow length, type of bow, draw weight, what kind of arrows you use and the size, what type of fletchings you have(feathers or vanes) and what kind of rest you are using. I am also assuming you use a release aid.

If you are wearing one fletching on each arrow, or just some of the arrows, you are getting some sort of fletching contact. This could be caused by a small dia. carbon arrow with too much helical and a prong rest. By the rest being adjusted wrong and the fletching contacting the the prongs, risor or cables. Or your arrows are simply not indexed correctly for your set up. Nock an arrow and look down the back of it. You should be able to see if the fletchings will hit something when it is released.

If you have feathers you may get a way with a little contact and not have it effect your flight, but if you have vanes it will kick your arrow off axis on release effecting the flight of the arrow. If going to a straight fletched arrow takes care of this contact problem you may very well see an improvement in your shooting. It all depends on how well you shoot to beging with.

I highly suggest getting arrows with an indexing nock(one you can turn) like any of the carbons or aluminums with uni nock bushings. Not the glue on nocks you see on cheaper aluminums or really skinny carbons. Take your bow with you when you have your arrows built up, and let them look at your set up, they will be able to tell you what will work best and clear correctly, at least they better.

I would suggest feathers with a slight offset, just my preference though. Feathers do cost more by the way.

Good luck and let us know what happens,

Paul

Wisconsin Buck Slayer

I shoot aluminum arrows, 2117, with feathers (more forgiving for my first year). I re-did all of my knocks and it seemed to help a lot, but i'm never going back to helical (that's right, no i remember). Everything is tuned, with paper, but now that my archery season is getting wrapped up, its time to start over, which is good. I'll let you know what happens, i'm going out thursday.

Thanks for the good advice.

fuzzjocky2

buck slayer you didn't say much about your set up ,what kind of broadhead,rest,release,and so on you are shooting but if you are shooting fixed blade heads of afair size you could end up with a lot of wind planing(sp) problems even if your bow is perfectly tuned. If you you are having contact problems there are a lot of arrow shafts in the same spline range as your arrow that have a much larger diameter. that if you are useing a shoot thru rest will make it much easier to eliminate contact problems