Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
07-19-2006, 09:26 AM
#11
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 312
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
Ok, thanks alot for the responses guys. I have decided to get a cut on contact broadhead. I'm thinking either the Magnus Stinger or the Wac'em Triton. Are the blades thick enough on the Wac'em Triton. They are .027 compared the the Stingers .040. And if i get the stinger would it be better to get the buzz cut broadhead or the regular four blade smooth surface. Thanks
07-19-2006, 09:38 AM
#12
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ontario,NY USA
Posts: 509
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
At a sportsman bow seminar a few years ago , the speaker said to use a "cut on contact" broadhead for 55# or less . Anything above 55# , use the mechanicals , bone breakers , etc ..
07-19-2006, 08:46 PM
#14
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 13,082
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
Be sure to check you local game laws before using the Buzzcut. In some states, serrated BH's are against the rules....dumb, but true. The regular Stingers are just as good and just as sharp.
07-20-2006, 02:48 PM
#16
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
The cleaner the slice the more blood you will get. The more trauma you have to tissue, veins and arteries the faster they will clot and the less blood you will have.
I don't feel there is any place in archery for serrated blade heads. They look cool, that is about it. They also offer less penitration if that is a concern.
With your set up I think any conventional fixed blade head would work well. I don't think you really need a cut on contact, Won't hurt anything though. Muzzy, NAP thunder heads or the likes would probably work fine as well. Also remember the less cutting surface, the more penitration on game. So don't go with a huge cutting diameter.
And if you are worried about penitration with a lower energy set up try and keep your arrow weight up for more momentum. This will help push the arrow thru the animal after it hits it. Also make sure your set up is tuned well and the arrow is flying straight and true. You can lose a lot of energy if your arrow hits the animal at an odd angle or something.
I think your problem was the design of the heads you were using. With any conventional head I think you have enough umph to get a pass thru. There are probably even a few mechanicals that would work for you, some penitrate pretty well. Then again some don't, so I think you are wise to stick with a COC type head or something simular.
I have used the steel force heads and they are pretty good.
Paul
I don't feel there is any place in archery for serrated blade heads. They look cool, that is about it. They also offer less penitration if that is a concern.
With your set up I think any conventional fixed blade head would work well. I don't think you really need a cut on contact, Won't hurt anything though. Muzzy, NAP thunder heads or the likes would probably work fine as well. Also remember the less cutting surface, the more penitration on game. So don't go with a huge cutting diameter.
And if you are worried about penitration with a lower energy set up try and keep your arrow weight up for more momentum. This will help push the arrow thru the animal after it hits it. Also make sure your set up is tuned well and the arrow is flying straight and true. You can lose a lot of energy if your arrow hits the animal at an odd angle or something.
I think your problem was the design of the heads you were using. With any conventional head I think you have enough umph to get a pass thru. There are probably even a few mechanicals that would work for you, some penitrate pretty well. Then again some don't, so I think you are wise to stick with a COC type head or something simular.
I have used the steel force heads and they are pretty good.
Paul
