Do you weight your arrows?
 

Do you weigh each and everyone? If so do you group them into same weights? Isure do!I want all my arrrows (I build my own) to weight no more than + or -one grain of my desired weight. For example right now out of my Switchback I am shooting Gold Tips XT's 7595at 29"fletched with quickspins and tiped125 grain fieldpoint/broadheads. My combined weight is 450 grains, I willallow 449to 451 but no more or less than that for either my hunting or practice arrows. Ifa arrow doesn't meetmy standards and there seems to be always one or two that don't out a a dozen.I don't junk the arrow but mark it for a bird and small game arrow or a long shotrisky 3-D arrow where there is a good chance of loosing/breakinga arrow.

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

I weigh the arrow and knocks and feathers and points. want to get everything as close as possible.[8D]

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

have to shooting 3-d. Plus everybody asks about it at tournaments anyways.

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

I guess it is what my shrink says obsessive compulsive, i say it is anal retentive, but I just want everything as close as possible so it doesnt matter which arrow I grab it will fly pretty much the same! [8D]

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

It's good to pay attention to details and if keeping your arrow weights within a +/- 1.0 grain range helps your confidence, I would say keep doing it. For those of you who don't, however, 2 grains difference between arrows will absolutely not result in a measureable difference in the impact point even shot from a shooting machine let alone an archer so if you are not so inclined to be so maticulous I wouldn't worry about it.

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

Yepper pretty much figured it wouldnt matter, guess it gives me something to pass the tiime during the long, cold, deep snow winters of Northern New York (or pass time when I am deployed)[8D]

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

I weigh them, but if they are off there really isn't too much I can do about it.I have the arrows made for me. I get pretty lucky and the batch of 6 usually has a range of only about +/- 2gr. When the average is 528 though, two grains doens't make too much of a difference.

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

Several grains in difference doesn't mean a hill of beans, the best pro shooter in the world cannot shoot the difference in 5 grains. Think about what 5 grains does to speed, what 1-2 fps and our arrows don't travel a whole second so that's split into fractions of seconds at target distances....it's what, millimeters and again, the best pro in the world cannot hold that still...;) But yes, I weigh my arrows....:D

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

Rob is correct.......although I'm pretty anal about all my arrows for both hunting and 3D weighing very close to each other in reality for practical hunting 3D distances we couldn't tell.

I was talking with a very reputable employee of a popular arrow manufacturer and a darn good shooter about this earlier this year. He told me that it would be very hard to tell the difference even over 20grs different per arrow unless you shot them from a machine at about 30 yards.......and even then they will still cut the original hole just not quite in the center of the first.;)

Where weight tolerances really show up is in long range shooting field/fita type stuff.

I still try to get my weight tolerances as close as I can, especially for 3D shooting but I put more emphasis on straightness and spine tolerances......fortunately all 3 of these qualities generally go hand in hand with the quality of shaft you choose and some are "guaranteed" to be withing a certain range within the bundle.
Most of the time anyway. ;)

It sure doesn't hurt to go over every shaft with a fine tooth comb for tolerances and in a perfect world we could stand there and sort through an entire lot with accurate equipment and pick and choose our own......unfortunately we're stuck with the crap shoot that is arrow shaft buying.
That's why I always buy the best quality shafts I can , look them over hard and hold a manufacturer to any tolerance guarantees on bum shafts.

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

If I were to encounter a 20 grain weight variability from the same lot of arrows I would begin to be a bit concerned. Not because of the weight difference itself but because itmay bean indication of sloppy control in the manufacturing process that could mean a significant variablity in spine, both axially and from arrow to arrow. To say it a different way, if the ONLY difference was weight I'd be O.K. with it but I think that that much weight variabililty could also indicate other more significant problems. Remember, manufactures often "sort" the results of a production run by straigtness and sell arrows at a premium price that conform to a tight straightness specs some times not even mentioning tolerance for spine and/or weight.

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

One older instructor I met said he only concerns himself withstraitness and spine and never weighs his arrows.Now he only shoots his hand made bows and if weight doesn't effect one of these, being slower,then I wouldn't think you'd haveanything toconcern yourself withwhen using a compound.

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

I do drop the cash for .001 arrows, and arrows that will be within 1 grain of each other (according to the manufacturer anyhow, rarely true in the real world), I also number my arrows on the fletching and also write their weight on the fletch as well so I have reference on each. However I agree with the above where most people don't have the shooting ability to see even 10-15 grain differences unless beyond the 40 yard mark, including myself. With that said, my pro 22's for the Allegiance all weigh in at 356-357 grains, and my Cobalt X7's for indoor all weigh 549 grains on the nose. I put string wax in the insert and screw in the points to force it in and keep adding until they weigh the same.........(yes I know this is a little OCD and unnessecary)

RE: Do you weight your arrows?
 

I'd say you'll have a lot more than 1 or 2 out of two dozen that don't fall within your plus or minus 1 grain. You'd be lucky to get 2 or 3 that would be in that zone when you get done with glue etc. If I were a paper puncher looking for X's I'm sure I'd weigh and sort and weigh and sort and do it again. BUT, since I'm a hunter I shoot and group and tune each with it's own broadhead and shoot and group and put them in the quiver. Those that don't group become practice arrows. PLUS or MINUS I don't really care.... I figure it'll all come out in the tuning, shooting and grouping.