kansaswiderack

I had some broadhead flight issues last fall that I simply compensated for. Now I want to work them out. I am shooting a matthews ovation @ 65#. Using CX300s & thunderhead 125s. Using the same weight field tips I am dead on, but the broadheads are shooting 2-3" low @ 20yds. I just rechecked it last night and it is consistent. 20 yds is the longest shot I can take at home so I don't know what it is doing @ longer ranges. Is this something I will have to learn to live with or is there something I can do to make my arrow flight consistent from field tips to broadheads?

danowak

There are some true bow tuning experts on this board. But since none of them have answered yet, I will give it a shot. Field tips are much less sensitive to tuning issues than broadheads. Having a broadhead on an arrow is like putting small vanes on the front. If your arrow does not travel perfectly straight during the power stroke (that is, the time it is attached to the string), it will start off course and the vanes will have to correct it, but it takes awhile for the arrow to straighten out. In that first few yards, before correction, your arrow will deviate from where you aimed it when it was on the bow.

In your case, it sounds like your arrow is not level on your rest. In other words, it is pointing slightly downward to begin with. To correct this, I would try raising your rest very slightly, if it is adjustable, until you are hitting the same spot as you field points. If your rest is not adjustable, you will have to lower your nock point, again in very small increments, until you are getting the same impact point.

Sniper151

I agree with danowak. If your broadhead is hitting directly below your field tips its a matter of a small adjustment to the nock set or rest. I suggest you loosen your nock set just enough that you can turn it on the serving one turn at a time down. Snug it up and try a few more shots. Do this until both the tips impact at the same point and your ready for next season.

BF1947

I, too, agree it sounds like a slightly high nocking point. Something that can help explain tuning is the Tuning Guide from www.eastonarchery.com.

And I commend you for wanting to find outsome of the finer things about tuning. You know, sometimes guys will say to just adjust your sight to compensate but there is a bigger issue than that. An arrow that is flying straighter (truer) will get better penetration, all things being equal. And boost your confidence in the long run, not to say anything about you just gaining the knowledge of how things work and understanding what to correct should something go out of kilter. Good luck.

game4lunch

See, I disagree somewhat. I think it's more of an aerodynamics issue, not just a tuning problem. Pften times though, most shooters use tuning adjustments to correct the problem.
I say this because I myself am quite adept at tuning my bow. But I also have taken it to our local bow shop expert. Cost maybe 5-6 bucks.
The aerodynamic differences between field points and broadheads (especially long bladed ones like the Thunderheads) is substantial! This was one of the reasons mechanicals became so popular so fast. "They shoot just like your fieldpoints!"
My broadheads (NAP Crossfires - 100 gr) shoot 3-4" right @ 20 yards. So I move my rest. In fact, I have taken a fine blade and scored the rest to mark where fieldpoints shoot, and broadheads. Gets me very close, and I fine tune from there.
I do believe you need to start with a well tuned bow (pro shop tuned), otherwise you could be chasing your tail.

rybohunter

Raise your rest a tad. I shoot T-heads and can get them to shoot the same as FP's. At 20 yds they should hit the same. Now MAYBE,at farther distances like 40-50 yds, you could see a deviation vertically between broadheads and FP's due to more drag and the fact that the BH is longer than a FP, pushing the FOC a little farther, but now you are talking about really picky and minor differences.

longbeardbuster

Iused to use Thunderhead 100's and also had a similar problems.
This past December I switched to Slick Trick 100's and they fly like
the field points. Itmust be the aerodynamics, the Slick Trick's are
a little shorter than the Thunderheads.

aeroslinger

I'm going to side with those suggesting to adjust your rest. I have found I can get most fixed broadheads I have tried to fly with the field tips. I usually shoot Spitfires but have found if I tune my bow with fixed heads it will show if its off or not. I can get the field tips and mechanicals to group great with not everything in sync. When I shoot the fixed they will show where I'm off. I got my new bow about month ago and had the fields and mechs grouping tight but not the fixed. Actually, I have some Nitrons that grouped with the fixed/mechs but there are some fixed with smaller cutting diameters that will group. The larger ones, Muzzy's, Montecs G5's, T-heads, wanted to fly left about 3". I moved my rest to the left and my sight and bingo! Fixed flying with fields and mechs. I had tight groups before but they are actually tighter now. I have some cheaper fixed, Satellite and Eastman, that seem a little more inconsistant but close. I really believe tuning your bow to get the fixed and field tips is the way to go. I really like the Spitfires but fixed blades flying true is hard to beat.

5 shot

check out my tuning page. It should get you started.
http://www.broadheadtests.com/TUNING.html

game4lunch

5 shot . . . informative page! Thanks. I am going to refletch some of my arrows (Axis) to achieve more helical just for these same reasons. I use the WB. Any advice on how much helical to tell the tech? I would imagine the WB would allow me a lot of helical, but how much is too much?
Would like your response to "compare" to what the tech tells me.