Broadhead Help!
 

Been using Muzzy 100 gr for years now, after a few bad experiences w/ mechanical heads. Got a new VTEC set at 72# w/ 125 gr tips. Looking at Steelhead 125's by Rocket (1 1/4" dia). Wanted totry mechanicals againcause Im going out for Antelope and want consistent accuracy at 45+ yrds. What Mechanicals do you recommend, I want good penetration and strenght (didnt get a P&Y Deer cause my previous mechs didnt make it through the ribs, too big a cut dia. i think) or should i stick with fixed blades? Please help, plan to purchase soon.


www.geocities.com/huntingedbt99/

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

1st. thing don't blame the head becuase u made a bad shot![:@]
then if u really want the low down on broadheads go to 5shot.com this is the guy who test all the broadheads!;)

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

The only mech. heads I use are Razortips from Grim Reaper. They fly great, and they don't have any o rings. You might want to try the G5 Montec heads if you stay with fixed. They fly great, and right with my field points out to 40 yards. That is as far as I have ever shot them.And a lot of people like theSlick Tricks, they say they fly great too. Good luck.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

Thanks for the 5shot link, was very helpful. Leaning more towards the Rocky Mt Snyper. Any thoughts? (PS the hit was a double lung shot, the broadhead just didnt cut the rib... Trust me, i can relive it like it was yesterday). Also, feel free to comment on my website, its just pics of my recent kills...

www.geocities.com/huntingedbt99

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

Nice Deer.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

I've only shot one mechanical broadhead and haven't had a need to switch to anything else. I shoot 100gr NAP Spitfires and love the way they fly.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

First of all, let me be the first to welcome you to the forums. We hope you are entertained as well as edumacated....[&:]

Now, to answer the question. Forget the mechanicals and try Magnus Stinger 4 blade. Holy cow, are these things incredible. They fly, like, unbelievable! Do some searches on this and the technical forum, they have been a topic of conversation lately. Of all the posts on these babies, I am yet to see one negative. Give 'em a try. Just my 2 cents.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

Mechanicals came out as a result of people not getting good results tuning the larger fixed blade broadheads or being to dang lazy to tune them. I admit that some of the older and larger heads of just a few years ago could cause one to pull their hair out trying to tune them but those days are gone.

There are far too many fixed blade broadheads out on the market now that will fly every bit as well as a mechanical.Even at distances to 60+ yards. My personal favorite is the Slick Trick. Some other very good heads are the Magnus Stinger, Wasp boss and bullet, Razor Caps, NAP nitron, G5 montec, Sonic & Liberty heads, and Steel force.

IMHO there is no reason to use a mechanical head any more and risk something mechanical needing to work or break on the hunt of a lifetime.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

I shot NAP spitfire 125grn heads.. I LOVE them. If I were going for the longer shots I'd probably buy the NAP Spitfire XP 125 grn heads. Same thing as the regular spitfires but with a blade tip. It's a bit more then the regular Spitfires but should have no problem going through an animal at 45+ yards.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

I'm with ya 100% on this one BigBulls. You did leave out Rocket Aeroheads Ulitmate Steelhead though! I shot a number of mechanicals over the past 6-8 years. I tried a pile of them and on whitetails haven't had any real major problems. But in 2000 I decided to try the Wasp Jackhammers on Co Elk. BIG mistake. I shot at one bull at 45 yards and a small twig the size of regular pencil lead pulled my arrow off course just enough to hit dead in the shoulder bone. The arrow stopped dead and bounced out. Total pentration? 1.5". Second Bull took a nice 25 yard shot to the onside lung and likely back through the liver. Never recovered that animal, but other hunters on the other side of the mountain did several days later once the meat had spoiled and been mostly eaen by the local wildlife. The arrow never left the animal. I have never felt so sick in my life. The bull was jumped up by other hunters so many times he headed all the way around the other side of the mountain. I was hunting San Juan Natl forest and it happened to be the opening day of muzzleloading, so there were hords of hunters coming up the mountianside. I had gotten up extra early and hiked in the dark to the upper meadows and was able to get close to this nice 4x5. It made me sick as I tracked him. I would go down the mountian several hundred yards and run into another group of hunters. They each told me that they had seen a 4x5, but it was moving on so quick they did not have a chance to get a shot. I realized then I might not get this one back at the rate he was moving around the mountain. So since then my quest has been for extremely accurate fixed blade heads, and plenty of arrow weigh along with practice at 70+ pounds of draw weight to ensure plenty of energy is transferred THROUGH the animal. I don't want to waste any ON the animal. Of the two deer I shot last year with the Rockets, I can say that they will do the job with absolutely no problem. I am also shooting a 10.6 grain per inch hunting arrow, so I got plenty of energy stored in my arrow. I called American Broadhead company last year and got them to send me a 100 grain Sonic head to test last year. I shot it through a ton of things, and so far the blades are still intact and amazing sharp for all the wear they have received. I bought 4 packs of them for Co since my tests and others have shown them to be awesome heads. They do fly great out of a well tuned bow, and don't fly too bad out of a not so tuned bow. But you hit the nail on the head with this post!

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

It really dosen't matter what mech. you shoot a well placed shot by any of them will do the job. As far as durability I have only a few that I can speak on, The best by far were the spitfires. If I had to choose one it would be a spitfire. Don't forget about the cut on contact blades, now a days they fly just as good as a mech. Magnus heads from what I've heard fly real well, steelforce makes a unbelievablely sharp head ( sharpest out of the box made today) and they fly real good but there is a little noise when going thru the air. If it were me, for a cut-on-contact head , 75 or 85 grain head in a magnus stinger or a steelforce tit. hellfire or a steelforce sabertooth serrated. Good luck

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

The best advice I can think of is to visit 5Shot's website. That guy is really cool and hastested darn near EVERYTHING regarding broadheads.

Click below:
http://www.broadheadtests.com

I am using Magnus Stingers 4 blade. They are fantastic and fly amazing like field tips and are lethally sharp. They are so sharp, it makes you wonder what keeps them inside the package!

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

You say you draw 72 lbs , what draw length? in other words how much Kinetic Engery do have leaving the bow?

Rules of thumb that I follow. My set produces 58 ft of KE at the bow. I can use a 1.5 inch cut if I limit myself to 20 yards, any farhter than that I may or may not get a pass through that is the largest cut I will use. the 1 3/4 inch and larger needs KE into the 70 + ft lb range to push them the way they are supposed to be pushed. keep in mind the farther the target the less KE there is when the arrow gets there.

If I want to shoot to 30 yards I go to a 1 1/4 inch size, I feel more confident about the pass through thing. So I use a 1/1/4 inch most all of the time. I find that size large enough for any deer. and it works really well inside 20 yards. that's three blades, now if I'm useing 2 blades I will go with the syniper out to 30. and a gator if I am inside 20 yards.

If I expect to shoot out past 30 yards I'll go with a fixed broadhead. I used magnus stingers last year. I found some 3 blade muzzy's in the box the other day so I suppose I'll use them this year if I run low on the stingers..

So if your going out west for a lope I imagine it will be a 30 plus yard shot more than likely so I would have 1 1/4 inch mechanical and fixed ready to go.

some states out there don't allow mechanicals at least that is what I've heard on these boards.

A couple of years ago my rig produced 54 ft lbs and I hit a deer in the heart at 27 yards with a 1 1/4 inch size 3 blademechanical. The heart was meaty enough to stop the arrow, did not get a pass through, deer went down quick but no pass through. Also if you try to pass through from the back rib out the front with a larger mechanical at 35 yard range you might not get a pass through.
You have to learn there are some limitations with a mechanical and decide if your hunting style can work within the limitations of the device.

Biggest mistake I hear when you get the shooters to fess up is that they tried to shoot a larger cut at a far distance with too little Kinetic energy to begin with. hence no pass through and another mechanical broadhead failure report that isn't really a mechanical failure at all.

Good luck out there, I would make sure my bow would shoot a magnus stinger 4 blade out to 50 yards at least if I were going out west. then hope I could get a shot between 20 and 35 yards..

good luck to ya.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

If you like mechanical heads I can suggest (as others have) the Spitfires I have used them as well as a fixed head and found no difference in the two as far as pennetration goes. I did find the mechanicals produced better blood trails, probablydue to the larger diameter.
I have never had one fail to open and have yet to have one fall apart or even break a blade for that matter.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

My opinion, if you go back to a mechanical, you're asking for a repeat of the same problems you had before. I've been guiding bowhunters for years and have seen way too many problems with mechanical broadheads, especially when being pushed by a light weight carbon arrow. They spend too much energy opening and not enough energycutting. If your bow is tuned correctly, and your form is consistent, you should have no problem shooting respectable groups out to 60 yards. Stay away from the mechanicals. They're the devil! [:'(]

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

Hey Bees, I am cursed with a 27.5" draw length so my arrows are right about the same. I am not against mechanicals, but for larger game at longer distances out West, I much prefer the fixed blade heads. I have not shot the Stinger, but it looks like a great head. I am getting extremely great flight out of either the Rocket Ulitmate Steelheads or the Sonic Heads from American Broadhead Co. Although they only have the legal 7/8" cutting diameter, they still do the job extremely well. The deer that I have shot with these heads have al died within sight of my tree. The holes the head made looked like a larger head when through them. I am sold on the super short broadhead "fad" if you will. They fly great, most always match where your field points do from a well tuned bow, have incredible penatration, and are very, very tough. I shot mechanincals and had pass throughs MOST of the time, but not always. Since I have been shooting the SSB's (super short Broadheads), all have not only passed through, but gone a long way past the deer or been buried in the groung 12" or better below where the animal stood.

My plan for going out West is to be able to hit a 3" circle with three arrows at whatever yardage. Last time I went I could do that out to 60 yards due to many, many practice sessions. So far this year I'm only up to 50 yards, but my practice time has been cut in half so far. I am going to double up over the next 6 weeks and hopefully 60 yards will be as comfortable as 20 in short order. I always practice with my broadheads and practice blades and not field points. I shoot field points to get the bow tuned, then switch to broadheads right away. Some people have told me that a 60 yard shot on an animal is unethical. I say only if I have not practiced at that range and sure, if I were out in the Aspens tossing out "Hail Marys" at a nice Bull, I ought to be shot myself! But my hope is to get within 30 yards of the animal, and put the arrow where I want it.

BTW, I am not disagreeing with anything in your post, I am just stating my point of view. Mechanicals are not just for me anymore!

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

Thanks for all the help guys! Looks like im going to get some magnus and muzzy's to try out.
I'll be trying them this weekend, i'll post my results when i do. Only 1 month left!!!

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

HuntingEd....yes try those out. I prefer Magnus heads.
There is absolutely NO reason you can't tune your bow to shoot excellent with fixed heads out as far as you will probably ever shoot. I've never been able to understand why people say they can't.
Now if you personally cannot , that's ok...just find someone that can. Although many folks have alot of success with mechanicals, my opinion is they are still a band-aid for folks that can't tune their bows. As soon as someone has trouble with broadhead flight, the immediate fix is "I'm going to switch to mechanicals". Regardless of the head, you need your bow tuned correctly. And yes, many folks have properly tuned bows and shoot mechanicals with much success, but personally my money is on fixed heads every time.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

Sounds good WV. I have 0 experience in tuning a bow, always thought it was difficult. Just boughtmyVTECa week ago, so i would hope its well tuned, as far as i can tell im getting good groups w/ clean arrow flight (any arrow movement has been a jerk or flinch on my part). I want to learn how to tune it, any good tips, websites, or guidelines for making my bow as accurately tuned as possible?

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

I shoot Muzzy's and absolutely love them!!! IMO, you will be making a mistake not sticking with the fixed blade head. If you MUST go to a mech. I like the Goldtip Gladiator. Many moons ago I shot the Gladiator. It was devestating on deer. The reason I swtiched to a Muzzy was I liked the cut on impact tip. I have yet to lose a deer with Muzzy's. Try the Gladiator if you want a great mech. head. Better yet, stay with the Muzzy!!!!

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

I've decided im staying w/ fixed. My Muzzy's brought em down every time. I'll post a new forum this weekend when compare the muzzy's and magnus.

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

For now, I'd recommend getting some help from someone that does know how to tune properly. Make sue you are all set for this season, and practice alot.
Learning to tune a bow is not that tough, but it does take some time. This site and the folks here have a wealth of information. Also, there are many good books and videos availble, plus I would recommmend going to easton's website and downloading the tuning guide. This will help alot. http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/

Agian, it's not real difficult, but I wouldn't expect you to learn it very quick...there is alot of information, and with todays high tech bows, many tricks to get them where you want them. Again, IMO the best thing you could do at this pointwould be to find areputable pro, that knows what he's doing. Maybe you have an archery club in your area, or possibly have a freind that may be able to help you.
Where do you live? Post that, and probably someone on here can steer you in the right direction. Good luck :D

RE: Broadhead Help!
 

Hunting Ed,
Nice website BTW

I'm glad you decided to stick with the fixed blade BH's. Don't be intimidated by tuning your own bow, get help and tackle it. I just returned from a hog hunt and before I went, I was determined to tune my bow myself. My problem was I refused to use mechanical heads, but fixed blade BH's would not group with my fieldpoints. I thought that the problem was the fixed blades. Many on here, (many of them have answered you) told me that if I got my bow tuned properly, that the fixed blades would group with the field points.

Well, believe them, and me, they will. I finally just tackled the problem and learned to tune it myself. I'll admit that it was very frustrating at times, but well worth it in the end!! My bow shoots every head now that I have tried, grouping any fixed blade with my field points. I am using the 90 grain Muzzy 4 blade and HIGHLY recommend them!!

BTW- some told me that you had to shoot quartering away on a boar because of the "gristle plates" on their shoulders. At 18 yards, the arrow made a complete pass-through through the shoulders. After skinning the pig, those gristle plates were 1 and 3/4" thick each. VERY tough to cut through with a good knife to get off of the hide, but those Muzzys went through them both without breaking or bending!

Good luck, Kev