bow for $1000
08-13-2012, 06:34 PM
#2
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,745
For that price you have tons of options. But just a word of caution - the most expensive doesn't mean it will be a good choice for you. Also, some manufacturers give you a good bang for your buck. Martin is a good example of this.
I may miss some brands but some choices are Bowtech, Matthews, PSE, Martin, and Bear.I would tell you to shoot as many as you can and then decide. Also, unless you're a big burly guy or have been shooting a bow for a while and are strong enough or going to be hunting out in the western states I would opt for a bow in the 45-60 draw wt range. Ample KE for deer and black bear. You want to be able to smoothly draw our bow while pointing it at the target without going through a lot of contortions. Another thing a lot of guys don't think about when buying a bow is that, yeah they can draw it no problem at the shop now in the middle of August. But what happens in a treestand on a cold frosty November morning when that buck of a lifetime is 15 yds under your treestand and your muscles are chilled. It a whole new ballgame then. I've heard horror stories of guys that couldn't get their bow drawn or had to twist and grunt and groan and got busted. Or have to draw, then let down, then draw again. I would say, if you can't draw the weight 3 times in rapid sucession then you're shooting a bow that's too heavy.
I may miss some brands but some choices are Bowtech, Matthews, PSE, Martin, and Bear.I would tell you to shoot as many as you can and then decide. Also, unless you're a big burly guy or have been shooting a bow for a while and are strong enough or going to be hunting out in the western states I would opt for a bow in the 45-60 draw wt range. Ample KE for deer and black bear. You want to be able to smoothly draw our bow while pointing it at the target without going through a lot of contortions. Another thing a lot of guys don't think about when buying a bow is that, yeah they can draw it no problem at the shop now in the middle of August. But what happens in a treestand on a cold frosty November morning when that buck of a lifetime is 15 yds under your treestand and your muscles are chilled. It a whole new ballgame then. I've heard horror stories of guys that couldn't get their bow drawn or had to twist and grunt and groan and got busted. Or have to draw, then let down, then draw again. I would say, if you can't draw the weight 3 times in rapid sucession then you're shooting a bow that's too heavy.
08-13-2012, 08:47 PM
#3
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
thanks for the advice, the weight pull wont be a problem for me, I currently use a pse with a 75 lb pull, im 24 and in good shape (6ft 215). I'd like this bow to use for when I go out west and possibly do some bigger game hunting
Last edited by jolly17; 08-13-2012 at 08:55 PM.
08-14-2012, 12:07 PM
#4
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,745
Well if you already have a good fast bow for your western hunting and you do the majority of your hunting in the east for whitetails why not get a nice light bow in the 45-60 LB draw weight range. You can probably shoot more and more often without suffering muscle fatigue which will result in better accuracy.
08-19-2012, 03:45 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Ky
Posts: 2,867
As much as I hesitate to recommend actual brand names, I'd suggest looking at Mission bows. They're born from Mathews and offer solid value for a 1st rate bow without the 1st rate price. For 1 thing it's much easier to get a longer draw length (longer than 30") with a sensible brace height. I'm a long time Mathews man but still shoot my old Switchback XT. In fact the next bow I get when I update will be a Mission Voyager XT. You can get a quality bow AND all accs and still have change left over for hunting license!
08-30-2012, 03:12 AM
#7
Fork Horn
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 221
Here is the best advice that anyone can give you. Decide what you want in a bow. That is poundage, draw length, weight, speed, brace height, axel to axel length, etc. Then look online and see what companies are offering. Some companies to look at are Mathews, Mission, Bowtech, Diamond, Darton, Struthers, Bear, PSE, Hoyt, Martin, Parker, Elite, limbsaver, Parker, Oneida, and G5/Quest/Prime (all made by G5, go to the G5 website). My list is long but I tried to think of every bow company I can think of.
After you look at what the companies offer, write down the models that you like. With that list then go to an archery shop and shoot the models that you like. Which ever one shoots the best that's the one you want.
I can't stress this point enough...do not listen to all the hype. Most people you talk to will recommend "The Big Three". That being Mathews, Bowtech, and Hoyt. I personally shoot a Darton. When I tell people what I shoot, most respond "what company" or "they make crap bows". People are biased. The bow that I shoot is great in my opinion. When it comes down to it, your opinion is what matters. Shoot everything that interests you and buy what feels the best.
Good luck in your search.
After you look at what the companies offer, write down the models that you like. With that list then go to an archery shop and shoot the models that you like. Which ever one shoots the best that's the one you want.
I can't stress this point enough...do not listen to all the hype. Most people you talk to will recommend "The Big Three". That being Mathews, Bowtech, and Hoyt. I personally shoot a Darton. When I tell people what I shoot, most respond "what company" or "they make crap bows". People are biased. The bow that I shoot is great in my opinion. When it comes down to it, your opinion is what matters. Shoot everything that interests you and buy what feels the best.
Good luck in your search.
09-03-2012, 03:59 PM
#10
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mequon, WI
Posts: 228
This is so true, I'm the 6th guy to say it and it's worth repeating.
Your best bet is shooting a dozen bows without looking at the name and having someone who knows how to fit you, watch you....
For me, it took 3 shots from 2 bows and the guy knew what bow was right for me. The interesting thing is, the bows are bare. And you shoot them instinctive. No peeps, no sights. It was pretty cool. Bullseyed a 3D apple on my 3rd shot so I said, "I'll take it"
Then I say.. they must all be about the same. He gives me a shorter bow, I setup the same way and shoot. At 20 yds, I hit the floor 15 feet in front of the target....."so I guess they're not the same......."
No kidding, he says...
Your best bet is shooting a dozen bows without looking at the name and having someone who knows how to fit you, watch you....
For me, it took 3 shots from 2 bows and the guy knew what bow was right for me. The interesting thing is, the bows are bare. And you shoot them instinctive. No peeps, no sights. It was pretty cool. Bullseyed a 3D apple on my 3rd shot so I said, "I'll take it"
Then I say.. they must all be about the same. He gives me a shorter bow, I setup the same way and shoot. At 20 yds, I hit the floor 15 feet in front of the target....."so I guess they're not the same......."
No kidding, he says...
