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Scent Blocker
I was just wondering if anyone knew anything about Scent Blocker Supreme
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RE: Scent Blocker
follow this link and then decide:
http://www.fastestbows.com/articles/...cent_suits.htm |
RE: Scent Blocker
Of course there is more to it than this article offers.
the question is will it stop human scent (not chemical or biological agents...this is what the army needs the suits for). The article points a finger saying a manufacturer doesn' t tests to see how they work when wet....does that mean they DO tests them to see how they wrok when dry? is it only 1 manufacturer that didn' t test wet suits? Until someone does some REAL un-biased research into the matter...we may never know. One way to test for yourself: grab a scent waffer (say peanut butter) and hold it tightly to the carbon suit (try this on a suit that hasn' t been sitting in the store for a few weeks...borrow someones suit to try) and see if you can smell it. Deer can smell a lot better than we can, but if you can' t smell the WAY strong waffer, the deer will have a harder time smelling you. |
RE: Scent Blocker
Here' s some more information I got from Robinson Labs (Scent Blocker).
I think they do a good job of explaining the workings of carbon suits. The reactivation temperatures you are reading about refer to complete (totally purged/desorbed)regeneration of carbon filter media that are used for adsorbing industrial/hazardous waste. The temperatures found in most residential dryers (100 - 150degree F)are sufficient for carbon to desorb most of the human odor(which are low-complex, organic-acid based compounds)we might put into it over a given period of time hunting. Which is exactly why both Scentblocker and Scentlok recommend keeping your activated carbon suit stored properly to prevent as much adsorption of all manner of other odorous compounds as possible. Doing this and keeping your body clean to begin with allows this reactivation process to work to a very high degree. and this... The high reactivation temperatures people are reading about refer to complete (totally purged/desorbed) reactivation of carbon filter media that are used for adsorbing industrial/hazardous waste. In some cases with these types of material, chemisorption occurs, which creates a chemical bond between the materials being adsorbed and the substrate. To desorb these types of materials does require very high temperatures, equivalent to those initially required to activate the carbon (in the range of 800 - 1000 degrees C. However, human odor consists of a mixture of volatile and high boiling point components - amines, aldehydes, and sulphur compounds. The high boiling point compounds come from bacterial action on fats and are typified by Butyric Acid. They tend to come mainly from the armpits and upper torso, while the volatiles come mostly from the groin area. These materials are physically adsorbed by carbon, not chemically adsorbed. In physical adsorption there is a van der Waals interaction, which have a long range, but are very weak. Physical adsorbtion is a relatively low energy process, easily reversible, rapid, and non-specific in the molecules it can capture. What this means in layman’s terms is that physically adsorbed molecules (e.g. human odor) can be readily desorbed (removed) with the modest heat levels found in residential tumble dryers. Perhaps the biggest misconception is that we often refer to reactivation, when we should be calling it regeneration. Technically, reactivation is the act of restoring adsorptive power to a spent carbon by a process similar to the initial activation process, which does occur at high temperatures. Regeneration is any process which restores adsorptive activity by desorbing the adsorbed substances, which is exactly what we’re doing with our carbon suits in our dryers. Keith Edberg Robinson Outdoors Just to aviod confusion, I am NOT Keith |
RE: Scent Blocker
sufficient for carbon to desorb most of the human odor |
RE: Scent Blocker
I would think that MOST is surely better than nothing at all.
What clothing do you find that ISN' T on the store rack? Wash it with a proper detergent, and throw it ni the dryer. I' ll take whatever help I can get. That said, I DO think they charge a bit too much for this stuff. |
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