lookin for good fixed blade
#11
Ok, so how many replies do you want! Most have said Slick Trick even a dealer, and here is the second dealer, I use Slick Tricks. I shoot what I believe in and has not failed me in any way. There are a lot of different heads and some send us dealers some (one) to try. I have taken 24 or 25 deer with only 2 bhs, and the only reason I had to go to the second is a pass thru that buried into a root and couldn't get it out. With three different spine shots complete pass thrus and the head was still in good shape. I resharpen the blades and use it on the next hunt.
#13
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 143
thanks every1... seems like ill have to give slick tricks a go so many good reviews on them.for you dealers and tech junkies could you also give me a reason why my bow hasnt tuned fixed blades well.. i shoot a hoyt vulcan 29'' draw 71lbs shooting a easton acc pro hunter 340.. i have had my bow paper tuned every year using a shooting machine to eliminate human error, any thoughts as to why they shoot so different from my f.p.. if i shoot a 1" group at 20 fixed blades shot 5" high and right everytime
#14
could you also give me a reason why my bow hasnt tuned fixed blades well..
i have had my bow paper tuned every year using a shooting machine to eliminate human error
i have had my bow paper tuned every year using a shooting machine to eliminate human error
#15
You answered your own question. Unless you are going to take that machine to the woods with you and use it to shoot a deer with then why would you tune your bow with a machine? I assume that you are indeed a human so why would you want to eliminate the human element in your tuning process?
#16
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 143
sorry for the late response.. work has been hell... as for using the machine.. it was recommended to me by the bow shop.. he said the best way to tune your bow it to eliminate all human error thus insuring that your bow is as tuned as it could ever be.. and in part i think hes correct.. when paper tuning i get a perfect bullet hole which i couldnt achieve by just shooting at the paper.. and my bow groups great and shoots great but i could never understand why fixed blades didnt shoot anywhere close to my f.p.. ive changed arrow weights and brands (well still in easton but went from axis to acc pro hunters) was giving the spine recommendation from eastons spine chart.. are there any other possibilities that would affect my broadhead flight... ?? i went and got a pack of slick tricks the other day and it still shoots 3 inches high and right for the 1st arrow and then the other 2 shoot 3 inches low and left..
complete setup is hoyt vulcan.. 71 lbs 29" draw rip cord rest...easton 340 acc pro hunters and blazer vanes
complete setup is hoyt vulcan.. 71 lbs 29" draw rip cord rest...easton 340 acc pro hunters and blazer vanes
#17
I have shot dozens of large game animals with slick tricks.
For a fixed blade i have yet to see anything that can beat it!
Blood trails ive had are alot better then when i used muzzy or thunderhead on large game.good luck and have fun...
Why u still having tuning issues?tHAT COULD BE A VARIETY OF THINGS,Arrow spine for poundage,Arrow rest not properly tuned,A bent axle in your cams etc,etc.
U mentioned ur shooting from a machine?Could be a mechanical problem with the machine,I would forget about the machine get shooting at some targets get sighted in by Yourself! start ur sighting in at 15yrds!Once u get them hitting bullseye back it up,Once u get shooting at 25 yrds u will be able to see what ur arrow is doing in flight,like a clearence problem from rest etc.
Good luck,its hard to say without knowing all the bows specs etc.and without being able to visually look at your bow with a arrow knocked to see if everything visualy is tuned to begin with.
For a fixed blade i have yet to see anything that can beat it!
Blood trails ive had are alot better then when i used muzzy or thunderhead on large game.good luck and have fun...
Why u still having tuning issues?tHAT COULD BE A VARIETY OF THINGS,Arrow spine for poundage,Arrow rest not properly tuned,A bent axle in your cams etc,etc.
U mentioned ur shooting from a machine?Could be a mechanical problem with the machine,I would forget about the machine get shooting at some targets get sighted in by Yourself! start ur sighting in at 15yrds!Once u get them hitting bullseye back it up,Once u get shooting at 25 yrds u will be able to see what ur arrow is doing in flight,like a clearence problem from rest etc.
Good luck,its hard to say without knowing all the bows specs etc.and without being able to visually look at your bow with a arrow knocked to see if everything visualy is tuned to begin with.
Last edited by cjgjr; 04-17-2010 at 04:44 PM.
#18
Ok, I'll give you my fixed blade pick. I'm pretty certain I'll be the lone voice here for them here and I'm sure I'll be far overwhelmed by SlickTrick users and the like, but you just have to trust and try. You don't hear about them on boards like this much, yet, somehow, they have remained in business for years. How is this? Solid, quality, sharp heads. Innerloc. Absolutely the most precise machining of any head I've used; which equals accuracy. You won't find a brand with more options for heads or more dependable. Family business and good folks. It has to say something if you've been around long enough to own a domain like www.broadheads.com
Last edited by Snood Slapper; 04-17-2010 at 08:13 PM.
#19
as for using the machine.. it was recommended to me by the bow shop.. he said the best way to tune your bow it to eliminate all human error thus insuring that your bow is as tuned as it could ever be.. and in part i think hes correct..