Question
07-12-2009, 09:13 PM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fort Hood, TX
Posts: 19
Question
Hi,
I am new to bow hunting and need some advice. I am shooting a Jennings Carbom extreme. Fist is this a decent bow for a beginner. It has a 28" draw and a 65# pull. Second would i be able to use the Rage 3 blade broadhead with this bow, or wont my bow have enough power to use mechanicals. If not what would be a good fixed blade. Thanx for you help.
I am new to bow hunting and need some advice. I am shooting a Jennings Carbom extreme. Fist is this a decent bow for a beginner. It has a 28" draw and a 65# pull. Second would i be able to use the Rage 3 blade broadhead with this bow, or wont my bow have enough power to use mechanicals. If not what would be a good fixed blade. Thanx for you help.
07-13-2009, 05:13 AM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
I'd say the bow is a little dated, but everybody has to start somewhere and this is as good a choice as any. Just because a bow is old doesn't mean it can't get the job done. As technically advanced as newer bows are supposed to be about the only thing they have any advantage over is that they are a little more quiet and have less hand shock. Your bow does essentially the same thing in that it launches an arrow at a given velocity.
So would your Carbon Extreme be compatable with mechanical heads? At 28" and 65#? Sure, why not. Just be sure you shoot a heavy enough arrow to carry enough momentum to make it work. That being said, almost any common aluminum or carbon arrow that you choose, if spined correctly, will be heavy enough for any deer or elk sized game.
Just be sure and learn how to tune your equipment so your arrows are flying well. After that the most important thing is to learn decent, repeatable shooting form and have fun.
So would your Carbon Extreme be compatable with mechanical heads? At 28" and 65#? Sure, why not. Just be sure you shoot a heavy enough arrow to carry enough momentum to make it work. That being said, almost any common aluminum or carbon arrow that you choose, if spined correctly, will be heavy enough for any deer or elk sized game.
Just be sure and learn how to tune your equipment so your arrows are flying well. After that the most important thing is to learn decent, repeatable shooting form and have fun.
07-13-2009, 01:11 PM
#3
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fort Hood, TX
Posts: 19
thanks for the info. today i was in the local bow shop and saw what i thought was a decent deal for a begginer. i picked up 6 Easton Fall Stalker 2216 arrows with 4 inch vanes for $20 and some Easton 100 grain field points for $6. will these arrows work if i get the Rage 3 blad or should i get fixed blades. will these arrows work for my set up or should i return them. i figure that these arrows with the 100 grain tips will be some where between 475 and 500 grains. is this to heavy?
07-13-2009, 06:19 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
According to Easton's charts your arrow should work OK for your setup with a 100 grain tip. You'll need to learn how to tune the bow/arrow combination to get the best flight out of them. This is something that a decent pro shop can help with.
You can also get a copy of Easton's Maintenance and Tuning Guide. You can download a copy from the "Sticky" in the Tuning Section on www.archerytalk.com. Read it and larn some of the jargon concerning archery. The better educated you become the more intelligent your questions will be when asking for help. It also contains info on how to set up and tune bows, something that's good to learn.
As for what braodhead to use? YOur finished arrow should weigh roughly 500 grains so this is enough to justify a mechanical head so if you want to use a Rage head then go for it. It will make broadhead tuning easier for you, but don't take for grantd that they will fly perfect right out of the box. You still need to tune for the best arrow flight you can achieve.
In the meantime don't get too caught up in a lot of technical stuff. Learn how to shoot and develop decent form and just have fun for a while. You'll learn as you go.
Also helpful would be finding and joining a local archery club where you can practice and get some help from more knowledgable shooters.
You can also get a copy of Easton's Maintenance and Tuning Guide. You can download a copy from the "Sticky" in the Tuning Section on www.archerytalk.com. Read it and larn some of the jargon concerning archery. The better educated you become the more intelligent your questions will be when asking for help. It also contains info on how to set up and tune bows, something that's good to learn.
As for what braodhead to use? YOur finished arrow should weigh roughly 500 grains so this is enough to justify a mechanical head so if you want to use a Rage head then go for it. It will make broadhead tuning easier for you, but don't take for grantd that they will fly perfect right out of the box. You still need to tune for the best arrow flight you can achieve.
In the meantime don't get too caught up in a lot of technical stuff. Learn how to shoot and develop decent form and just have fun for a while. You'll learn as you go.
Also helpful would be finding and joining a local archery club where you can practice and get some help from more knowledgable shooters.
07-13-2009, 07:41 PM
#5
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fort Hood, TX
Posts: 19
BG,
thanks for all your help. I know my bow is a little dated but i am recently joined the army. I will be leaving for Basic on October 7 and our bow season here in Minnesota starts the second weekend in september. My wife couldnt justify me buying a new bow just for that short period of time. I will be sure to check out the link and get as much info as i can. any other advice you have for a begginer would be great.
thanx,
billy
thanks for all your help. I know my bow is a little dated but i am recently joined the army. I will be leaving for Basic on October 7 and our bow season here in Minnesota starts the second weekend in september. My wife couldnt justify me buying a new bow just for that short period of time. I will be sure to check out the link and get as much info as i can. any other advice you have for a begginer would be great.
thanx,
billy
07-14-2009, 01:56 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
I guess it sounds like joining a local archery club is out of the question for now.
There are some good technical articles on www.huntersfriend.com.
Over on www.archerytalk.com do a search and read some of the threads on shooting form posted by Nut&Bolts. He's a guru of sorts and describes things in detail with pictures most of the time.
Shooting form is one of the most important things to shooting well. And shooting form is accomplished mainly by getting the draw length of the bow correct. Then as you develop consistency and knowledge you can tweak things to suit you
One thing that I always consider important. Once you have established a draw length that works for you NEVER compromise it for the sake of a little more speed. It doesn't hurt to play around, always looking for that last 1/8" to make you aim better, but don't go crazy long to gain speed. As you get along with it you'll find that you have to change length a little from bow to bo, but hardly ever more than 1/4" or so.
The other is being over bowed. If you'll eventually be hunting don't get caught up in Kinetic Energy. Any bow shooting 50# ormore with a properly spined arrow is enough for any deer sized game. You'll shoot better keeping bow draw weight down about 10# from what you think you can handle. Remember, there will be more bows in your future. This draw weight thing works hand in hand with shooting form, too. You can learn quicker and easier how to shoot a bow properly if you don't have to struggle with it.
Have fun.
There are some good technical articles on www.huntersfriend.com.
Over on www.archerytalk.com do a search and read some of the threads on shooting form posted by Nut&Bolts. He's a guru of sorts and describes things in detail with pictures most of the time.
Shooting form is one of the most important things to shooting well. And shooting form is accomplished mainly by getting the draw length of the bow correct. Then as you develop consistency and knowledge you can tweak things to suit you
One thing that I always consider important. Once you have established a draw length that works for you NEVER compromise it for the sake of a little more speed. It doesn't hurt to play around, always looking for that last 1/8" to make you aim better, but don't go crazy long to gain speed. As you get along with it you'll find that you have to change length a little from bow to bo, but hardly ever more than 1/4" or so.
The other is being over bowed. If you'll eventually be hunting don't get caught up in Kinetic Energy. Any bow shooting 50# ormore with a properly spined arrow is enough for any deer sized game. You'll shoot better keeping bow draw weight down about 10# from what you think you can handle. Remember, there will be more bows in your future. This draw weight thing works hand in hand with shooting form, too. You can learn quicker and easier how to shoot a bow properly if you don't have to struggle with it.
Have fun.
07-14-2009, 06:21 PM
#7
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fort Hood, TX
Posts: 19
BG,
I took my new arrows out today and shot them at the target with field points just to see what they would do. I am just borrowing the this bow for the season and when i picked it up the guy had some carbon arrows that i used to test the bow. When i shot them into my target the went in to the fletchings from 10 yards. With the aluminum arrows they still had 6 inches of arrow before the fletching. My theory is that it is due to the aluminum arrows being quite a bit thicker (3/8") compared to the carbons. My target is just a cheap foam 20 dollar one from walmart.
I took my new arrows out today and shot them at the target with field points just to see what they would do. I am just borrowing the this bow for the season and when i picked it up the guy had some carbon arrows that i used to test the bow. When i shot them into my target the went in to the fletchings from 10 yards. With the aluminum arrows they still had 6 inches of arrow before the fletching. My theory is that it is due to the aluminum arrows being quite a bit thicker (3/8") compared to the carbons. My target is just a cheap foam 20 dollar one from walmart.
07-15-2009, 12:04 AM
#8
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fraziers Bottom, WV
Posts: 500
First off, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR COUNTRY!!! I'd shake you hand if you were in my presence!!!!
Now on to the other, less important stuff
Congratulation on getting into archery! It's SOOOOOO addictive!
Your getting some great advice! I'm almost 100% sure that the carbon penetrated deeper in you target because of the diameter of the arrow. The aluminum defiantly carries more KE but has alot of surface area for the target material to "grab" onto. I wouldn't worry about penetration on a deer with aluminum. When they enter the blood and fat will act almost as a lubricant. IMHO the only thing that stops penetration is hair, skin, and bone. But that's to be debated some other time
As far at broadheads. You will get soooo many different opinions. Your bow with aluminum should have enough umph to use mechanicals. I personally will not use Rage heads. Heard to many complaints among other reasons. I prefer a fixed head like a G5 Striker or Montec. But to each there own. Just make sure they are hitting where you aim. Even mecanicals will have issues with this from time to time.
Good luck with your new addiction
Now on to the other, less important stuff
Congratulation on getting into archery! It's SOOOOOO addictive!
Your getting some great advice! I'm almost 100% sure that the carbon penetrated deeper in you target because of the diameter of the arrow. The aluminum defiantly carries more KE but has alot of surface area for the target material to "grab" onto. I wouldn't worry about penetration on a deer with aluminum. When they enter the blood and fat will act almost as a lubricant. IMHO the only thing that stops penetration is hair, skin, and bone. But that's to be debated some other time
As far at broadheads. You will get soooo many different opinions. Your bow with aluminum should have enough umph to use mechanicals. I personally will not use Rage heads. Heard to many complaints among other reasons. I prefer a fixed head like a G5 Striker or Montec. But to each there own. Just make sure they are hitting where you aim. Even mecanicals will have issues with this from time to time.
Good luck with your new addiction
