which broadheads??
12-03-2007, 09:15 AM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
RE: which broadheads??
After 35 years of bowhunting, using many different kinds of broadheads I've draw some conclusions. There is no magical broadhead. If the blades are as sharp as can be, the arrow is tuned for optimum flight, and the shot is placed in the vitals they almost all produce the same results.
True, bigger cut means a bigger hole, but it's only useful if you shoot enough kinetic energy to punch through. And this is not an endorsement for turning up the bow weight till you can't handle it. Accuracy is the key.
Assuming a good shot the next step is following through with a little bit of woodsmanship, called tracking ability. This is something learned over time with great patience. With a well placed shot tracking is usually pretty short, but understand that many deer don't shed a drop of blood for 20 yards or more after the shot. Paying attention to details helps. How did the animal react---often gives a hint as to where the hit was.Be quiet and listen. You may hear it go down or fall. Which way did the animal go?------I use a compass as things often look very different on the ground than from an elevated position. Patience!!!!!!!! Go slow and look ahead. Mark the last blood with toilet tissue and look back once in a while. It'll give you a trail, too. When all else fails spend hours on your hands and knees if necessary. There is a lot to it. This is just some. Every siuation can be different.
It's been mentioned and is a given. Stay away from the bone (shoulder). Broadheads are not bullets. They do not kill by shock, no matter how much KE is involved.
True, bigger cut means a bigger hole, but it's only useful if you shoot enough kinetic energy to punch through. And this is not an endorsement for turning up the bow weight till you can't handle it. Accuracy is the key.
Assuming a good shot the next step is following through with a little bit of woodsmanship, called tracking ability. This is something learned over time with great patience. With a well placed shot tracking is usually pretty short, but understand that many deer don't shed a drop of blood for 20 yards or more after the shot. Paying attention to details helps. How did the animal react---often gives a hint as to where the hit was.Be quiet and listen. You may hear it go down or fall. Which way did the animal go?------I use a compass as things often look very different on the ground than from an elevated position. Patience!!!!!!!! Go slow and look ahead. Mark the last blood with toilet tissue and look back once in a while. It'll give you a trail, too. When all else fails spend hours on your hands and knees if necessary. There is a lot to it. This is just some. Every siuation can be different.
It's been mentioned and is a given. Stay away from the bone (shoulder). Broadheads are not bullets. They do not kill by shock, no matter how much KE is involved.
12-03-2007, 03:03 PM
#12
Fork Horn
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 306
RE: which broadheads??
It depends on the rig your're shootingand the arrow you're using. If you're shooting 70LBS out of a fast bow and have the luxury of a longer draw length (28"+ =longer power stroke and more speed), you can get away with a expandable for whitetail but certainly not Elk. The MagnusSnuffer head is as good as I've seen and anyone shooting 50 or 60 LBS should not even bother with a mecanical in my opinion. If you can't get a fixed head to fly, add weight byswitching to aluminum arrrows, arrow flight and tuning the bow is more important than most archers realize.The biggest lie told to hunters is that carbon arrows penetrate better, theydo infoam targets or gelitin blocks but not inflesh, the smooth aluminum shaftenters the body cavitythrough the gaping wound cut by the broadhead and the smooth aluminum has less friction than carbon on the trek through the body. By switching to aluminum and a fixed head, you'llquiet your bow, add 10-15% more energy to your shot and you'll have much better down range power to boot.Hunting is not a3-D competition,the object is to penetrate and killthetarget on the other end.
12-03-2007, 03:42 PM
#13
Spike
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illinois, South of Chicago
Posts: 38
RE: which broadheads??
ORIGINAL: jkb0909
If you're looking to try something new, I suggest the Rage 2 blades if you can get a hold of them. I smoked a doe with em couple weeks ago, and all I can say is it didn't go far(maybe 30 yds). I don't see myself shooting anything else. They're mechanicals, and I haven't heard anything negative on them, besides the recall they had earlier in the year, but that's all fixed now.
If you're looking to try something new, I suggest the Rage 2 blades if you can get a hold of them. I smoked a doe with em couple weeks ago, and all I can say is it didn't go far(maybe 30 yds). I don't see myself shooting anything else. They're mechanicals, and I haven't heard anything negative on them, besides the recall they had earlier in the year, but that's all fixed now.
I'm shooting a PSE polaris at app. 62-64# and had complete pass through the doe.
12-03-2007, 03:45 PM
#14
Fork Horn
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Painesville, ohio
Posts: 486
RE: which broadheads??
I dunno but I have had complete pass throughs with carbon arrows from 35 yards, though the back shoulder no problems. i have killed deer with expadibles, and fixed blades. once the broad head enters the chest cavity, the magic is happinin. and you might have to work and track (the toiletpaper thing has been a mainstay with me for a while, love that) but with correct shot placement, the job will get done.
Energy: I would love to see the test where a blcok with a pressure switch was shot with aluminum and carbon arrows of the same weight and test that 10-15% idea. Because when you are chasing a broad head, the only thing on your arrow that should be causing any significant friction is the fletching. thats kinda why I stay away from the short high profile stuff. and friction is really what robs you of energy. the energy transfer from bow to arrow should be the same with aluminum or carbon if they are correctly spined
Quietness:IBO standards use a 350 grain carbon arrow, and bows today are FAR quieter than they ever have been.itwas a 350 grain aluminum target arrow before, i could be wrong, but I am pretty sure there is some flawed logic here,
Energy: I would love to see the test where a blcok with a pressure switch was shot with aluminum and carbon arrows of the same weight and test that 10-15% idea. Because when you are chasing a broad head, the only thing on your arrow that should be causing any significant friction is the fletching. thats kinda why I stay away from the short high profile stuff. and friction is really what robs you of energy. the energy transfer from bow to arrow should be the same with aluminum or carbon if they are correctly spined
Quietness:IBO standards use a 350 grain carbon arrow, and bows today are FAR quieter than they ever have been.itwas a 350 grain aluminum target arrow before, i could be wrong, but I am pretty sure there is some flawed logic here,
12-03-2007, 10:35 PM
#17
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location:
Posts: 229
RE: which broadheads??
The three blade Muzzy is a great head, I like to shoot the 4 blade personally. If your bow is packing some serious energy, try a large expandable of some sort. The rage slip cam expandable seems to be the bee’s knees from what I have seen, but even then nothing beets shot placement.
12-04-2007, 04:34 PM
#18
Fork Horn
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 414
RE: which broadheads??
ORIGINAL: Dopler
It depends on the rig your're shootingand the arrow you're using. If you're shooting 70LBS out of a fast bow and have the luxury of a longer draw length (28"+ =longer power stroke and more speed), you can get away with a expandable for whitetail but certainly not Elk. The MagnusSnuffer head is as good as I've seen and anyone shooting 50 or 60 LBS should not even bother with a mecanical in my opinion. If you can't get a fixed head to fly, add weight byswitching to aluminum arrrows, arrow flight and tuning the bow is more important than most archers realize.The biggest lie told to hunters is that carbon arrows penetrate better, theydo infoam targets or gelitin blocks but not inflesh, the smooth aluminum shaftenters the body cavitythrough the gaping wound cut by the broadhead and the smooth aluminum has less friction than carbon on the trek through the body. By switching to aluminum and a fixed head, you'llquiet your bow, add 10-15% more energy to your shot and you'll have much better down range power to boot.Hunting is not a3-D competition,the object is to penetrate and killthetarget on the other end.
It depends on the rig your're shootingand the arrow you're using. If you're shooting 70LBS out of a fast bow and have the luxury of a longer draw length (28"+ =longer power stroke and more speed), you can get away with a expandable for whitetail but certainly not Elk. The MagnusSnuffer head is as good as I've seen and anyone shooting 50 or 60 LBS should not even bother with a mecanical in my opinion. If you can't get a fixed head to fly, add weight byswitching to aluminum arrrows, arrow flight and tuning the bow is more important than most archers realize.The biggest lie told to hunters is that carbon arrows penetrate better, theydo infoam targets or gelitin blocks but not inflesh, the smooth aluminum shaftenters the body cavitythrough the gaping wound cut by the broadhead and the smooth aluminum has less friction than carbon on the trek through the body. By switching to aluminum and a fixed head, you'llquiet your bow, add 10-15% more energy to your shot and you'll have much better down range power to boot.Hunting is not a3-D competition,the object is to penetrate and killthetarget on the other end.
12-04-2007, 05:16 PM
#19
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: homer, NE
Posts: 347
RE: which broadheads??
The biggest lie told to hunters is that carbon arrows penetrate better, theydo infoam targets or gelitin blocks but not inflesh, the smooth aluminum shaftenters the body cavitythrough the gaping wound cut by the broadhead and the smooth aluminum has less friction than carbon on the trek through the body. By switching to aluminum and a fixed head, you'llquiet your bow, add 10-15% more energy to your shot and you'll have much better down range power to boot.Hunting is not a3-D competition,the object is to penetrate and killthetarget on the other end.
I have shot all sizes of aluminums heavy ones and light ones over my years for hunting and I got to say carbon are the best hunting arrow I have ever used for hunting. More energy out of the bow, on the hit and smaller diameter pass through all most every time. I have not ever had a aluminum arrow penetrate as good as the carbons in my 45 years of bowhunting. May you think I'm a lier, but I will stay with my carbon 400 axis and keep blowing through every thing I shoot from foam to big game. You can believe what you want can't believe what you just said. I'm not ever going back to aluminums for hunting, maybe for indoor target. "foam" easier to put out of the target they don't go in as far.
I have shot all sizes of aluminums heavy ones and light ones over my years for hunting and I got to say carbon are the best hunting arrow I have ever used for hunting. More energy out of the bow, on the hit and smaller diameter pass through all most every time. I have not ever had a aluminum arrow penetrate as good as the carbons in my 45 years of bowhunting. May you think I'm a lier, but I will stay with my carbon 400 axis and keep blowing through every thing I shoot from foam to big game. You can believe what you want can't believe what you just said. I'm not ever going back to aluminums for hunting, maybe for indoor target. "foam" easier to put out of the target they don't go in as far.