Trolling motor size
 

I'm stuck with fixing one of my older trolling motors or buying yet another one. I was wondering what pound thrust everyone is using and if they're happy with it. I've always had 24 volt trollers but have been looking at a 55lb 12 volt.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

I have a Minn Kota Maxxum 55lb. thrust 12 v. I love it .

RE: Trolling motor size
 

Mark, I run a 55lb 12V Minn Kota. I've had the Maxxum, but went to the endura because the endura is more "fixable".

BTW, I have a motorguide troller for sale if you want a foot control, 12 or 24V bow mount.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

My little boat has a 36lb transom mount.
Works great, and I can ski behind it.
Heck, I'm practically skiing ON it. :D

It can throw you if you slam it into top gear with it pointed sideways, but that is to be expected when the motor weighs half a much as the boat.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

I own two 12 volt Maxim 55 ft-lb. trollers. Each will pull my 1860 boat very easily on most bodies of water, but when trying to move upstream on a faster river, well then the more the ft-lbs, the better. I have been a big fan of Minn Kota for years because of the abuse I put my older trollers thru and they would come back for more, but these last couple of Minnies that I have owned are forever blowing a circuit board or rheostat or something. Unfortunately the newer ones don't seem to be withstanding my abuse as well as the older ones. I might have to try the more simple Endura model.

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I looking at the Rip tide trollers, anyone tried them??

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I went from a 55lb. 12 V to a 64lb. 24V MK Power Drive and really like the extra boost and longer drive time. (1648 boat)

RE: Trolling motor size
 

Carpsniper
I am looking to get my boat 14' deep V alluminum boat set up with a foot pedal trolling motor. Was wondering what you are asking for yours? Also I was wondering can you take a regular trolling motor and set it up as a foot control? If you could just email me that be great dont know when I will be on next thanks
JOE

RE: Trolling motor size
 

Kendall, I've already got a 12/24 motorguide that acts up now and then. My newer fancy 80lb motorguide is stuck on high bypass(I wish I could work on solid state electronics). I really like the idea of going simple. In fact, I was looking at an endura 55. What do you find you have to fix on them? I'd get the shorter shaft to keep the cost down and just buy the 96" replacement. I really like the idea of paying for just a 12 volt converter. I think you guys have helped me make up my mind! Here's a crazy idea. Anybody here think about trying to rig up a troller to run on 110 volt. I figure the motor from a weed eater would be about right.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

The enduras have a simple switch set-up that costs <$20 (used to anyway) 6 screws, 5 spade cliped wires, replace and you're back in business; usually. If not, it's the brushes in the motor head. A little more involved, but still pretty simple and cheap.
The Maxxums....all solid state. Three circuit boards = $$$$ [:@]

As far as 110V goes, I think a lot of people have had that idea. If you could make one, Bowfishers would buy every one. They already have generators, no converters to worry about, no batteries, less weight and you should be able to get a bunch of power/thrust out of one. Let me know when you're ready to try out your prototype on the CIRFCU. :D

RE: Trolling motor size
 

RELATED QUESTION:
Does anybody besides me bother to install an in-line fuse for their troller power? Could a lack of current protection be the cause of blown PC boards? I would think so.

I'm new to this troller thing, but everything electronic (DC)that I work on is fused, has a circuit breaker, thermal safety cutout, or has other power limited provisions to prevent damage from overloads.

I blew mytroller's fuse the other day when I stuck the prop in the bottom for too long. Motor was fine, but I had to have my on-board engineer (me)make an emergency repair to restore power. (alwayskeep tools onboard ;))

RE: Trolling motor size
 

That's exactly what happens. Sticking the prop on the bottom causes what is basically a dead short. The switch or board is the weak link and melts. [:@]

RE: Trolling motor size
 

Then I'm definitely keeping some protection in thecircuit on my boat, although I'm leaning toward a resettable breaker instead of a fuse, or at least in addition to one.

Fuses = cheap and easy
Motor = expensive and P.I.T.A.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

So.......how do we calculate what size fuse/breaker to use?

RE: Trolling motor size
 

I asked the same thing at Gander Mtn when I bought my Minn Kota Endura 36# last fall. They looked at me like I was from another planet, and asked why I wouldn't just direct wire it to the battery. I said "because I don't want to be back here next week looking for a repair or a new motor". They insisted that they've always direct wired and never had a problem. Apparently, they don't power through 8 inch deep muck and blow up motors like we do, or they assume that the occasional smoked motor is just a fact of life, and that it can't be prevented.

I decided to figure it out myself, so I would simply need the current draw of the motor in question when under maximum load and then multiply by 1.25 to keep the draw under 80%of the rating of the wire and fuse (it's a reciprocal thing ;)). No dice. Apparently 'current draw' is notpart ofthe lingo of most troller users since all I could find listed was 'pounds of thrust' and 'estimated run time'. [:@]

OK, it was time to fall back and punt. I just used the wire size that was pre-wired to the troller as a guide (which meant opening up the motor's box in the store). It had 10 gauge wire (not marked of course like any normal wire would be -I had togo getwire strippers from my car to check the size [:@]). OK, I know 10 gauge wire is good for 30 amps, soI asked for a fuse holder and a small box of 30 amp 1-1/4" fuses for spares. I found them myself before the guys were even done discussing what isle theyMIGHT be in IF they had any. :eek:

The short answer is...
-find out the current draw and multiply by 1.25
OR
-measure the factory wire size, and use that as a guide
>14 gauge = 15 amps
>12 gauge = 20 amps
>10 gauge = 30 amps
OR
-call the manufacturer and ask them to recommend one.
(Hope they dont' say "why wouldn't you just keep blowing up your motor and put my kids through college by continuing to buy new motors and parts.") :D

RE: Trolling motor size
 

On BUSA somebody recently posted the chart for the amperages of every minn kota motor. I'd have to look for it again but it seems to me the highest amperage was around 55 amps for the bigger trollers. I'd guess 30 amps of protection is a pretty safe bet for your 36 pound. When I used to rig Ranger boats I seem to remember the push button reset breakers were always around 50 amps.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

I use an inline fuse, and breakers for both bat's. I have the monster 24 v Motorguide (86 lb, I think).

Mark, not sure where you live, but it would cost less than you think to get it fixed. Not sure where you live, but Tri-State Trolling Motor in Hazelwood, MO is quick, reliable, and fair priced. That problem is a common one, though I forget the problem.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

A little help for a dummie.. I just bought a new Motorguide 60# 24 volt actually by mistake. I wanted a 12 volt. No one was in the sports dept to help, so i picked up the wrong one. Typical of me..Well after getting it all mounted and hooked I find out the problem. Can any one tell me any advantages of using a 24 volt instead of the 12?? Also it has the nice little light on top to see which way it is pointing. Of course the light on mine does not work. I pull the top off and the bulb is good??go figure. Too late to take it back. thanks..johnny b

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The biggest advantage with a 60lb. 24 volt is you'llget longer use of the trollerthan with just a 12 volt. Also after 55 lbs you can only get them in 24 or 36 volt. The disadvantage is the weight and cost of 2 batteries. The light in the head only comes on when you hit the trottle. Sounds like something's wrong inside.

I'm thinking seriously about getting the Wen Generator from Menards. Is that what you're running now and do you like it Johnny B?

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Mark, do you have a Costco card?

They sell the 3500 watt gennys cheaper than Menards. They are the same thing, just different label.

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I don't have a Costco card. Is Costco a lot cheaper?

RE: Trolling motor size
 

That's the deal. I really don't know the motor thing very well yet, but electrically speaking....

If you are running a given motorat a given power, you will deplete a given battery in a given amount of time (give or take a few 'givens'). If you want to run it longer, you need more battery, or a more efficient motor. Period. You can only get out what you put in. (That whole Law of Conservation of Energy thing)

To use a second battery to add run time, you either you run 2 batteries inparallel (for a 12 volt system with both positive battery terminals tied together and both negatives tied together), or you switch to a 24 volt setup that uses the two batteries wired in series (the positive of one battery will be wired to the negative of the other, and the unused terminals become the new positive and negative of your new '24 volt battery'.
You could also add a 3rd battery for a 36 volt system.

The higher powered motors will demand more juice, and if they are used at 12 volts, they will draw large amounts of current and require BIG wire. If the same size motor is operated at twice the voltage, it only takes half the current to do the same amount of work.

I imagine that the bigger motors are 24 volt to keep the operating current lower to prevent battery damage, and the medium motors come with the 12/24 option so that you have the choice of running on a single battery if you care to.

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Mark, About the Cosco thing be careful. Last year I was going to get the generator at Menardsa and they were out of the Wen. They had another one that the salesman said was just like the Wen. After reading the lable it did have MOST of the features,but did not have the built in Battery charger. That is the one feature that I really like. While running you lights you can be chargeing a battery at the same time with out a separate charger. So read the fine print. So far I really, like the generator, but have only it one time. Snuffy has had his a year now and trouble free. My son-in-law and mr extreme are here and i was showing it to them last night. One pulll and it was running.

RE: Trolling motor size
 

I do, 30 amp, on a 55 lb MK All Terrain. Change it about every 2 weeks. Have an inline fuse on both of my graphs as well. Cheap protection and a quick fix on the water.

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I'm keeping my fuse too, and I just picked up a circuit breaker that clamps directly to the battery post. It's a cube that's about an inch on a side. Easy resets with no hassle, and I still have the fuse in-line to backup the breaker (because it was cheap).

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Johnny, this one does have the 12v leads. Are you charging the same battery you're using to run the troller? They say that will burn up your troller.
Mez, do you just change the fuse that often bc it blows, or just as maintenance? It seems to me that if it blows, 30 amp mat be a bit light.