robow7

The vanes should be cut off for better arrow flight, sounds strange doesn't it? The shots are generally very short, less than 10 yards in most cases and the line paying out the back of the arrow acts to stabilize the tail and arrow flight. That's not to say that you shouldn't try and improve arrow flight by changing the bow, rest, poundageor arrow spine to suit each other but the vanes are more of a detriment than aid.

Bulz, the bushings that you referred to are also available at most larger traditional shops like Three Rivers and Lone Wolf Archery

OHdeerguts

Thank you all I'm headed to Cabelas next weekend to check out the bowfishing stuff. been looking through my 3 rivers cat and salavating over all the neat stuff. If my wife lets me get anything I'll ask her to try to help me post some pics. thank you to all and cant wait to wet a line and kill a carp

HNI_Christine

Have fun OHdeerguts!

...and I agree the others on the vanes. Don't bother with them. Buy the fish arrows that don't have them, or cut them off.



This is for Bulzeye:
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Thumb.asp?c=8&s=2&p=81

OHdeerguts

I thought of a new question. I know my tab should work fine but how about those little finger things that go on the string, it says for bowfishing are they any good or are they junk?

HNI_Christine

Those thingies.. No glovs are used by lots of folks. I have a set I haven't put on my string yet.

I use a golf glove. It keeps my fingers from getting sore and I can grab the line when a fish is running without getting cut or burnt from the line.

The downside of the glove... is that it doesn't take long to get smelling like a sun-baked carp (and I anchor right under my nose). [:'(]

Bulzeye

I started with the No-Gloves since I shoot fingers for everything.
They are just fine.

Then I just used a regular leather shooting glove, but the water and slime ruin them in short order.

Now I usea pair ofsynthetic (fake)leather mechanics gloves http://www.mechanix.com/detail.asp?product_id=MFFthatyou can find at home improvement stores. The finger material on them holds up very well, and doesn't get stiff or rot when it gets wet. Also great hand protectors for the fish's spines and gar's scales and teeth.

The down sides to any glove is the smell, as Christine mentioned, and also that once your hands are wet, they are going to stay that way for a while.

OHdeerguts

Thanks I did not even think of golf gloves, or batting gloves to keep the line from cutting your hand. Also i think I might try the No-Gloves (thingies) and batting gloves. Thank you guys so much

Mark S

I love my no-gloves! Easy on the fingers, fast nocking of the arrow, and holds the arrowin placewhile moving around. Some argue that no-gloves roll off your fingers and I honestly wonder if that is the reasonI sometimes have some inconsistent shots. I'll probably stick with them though.

grizzly190

I dont know if somebody already mentioned it but remeber to AIM BELOW the fish when shooting at it. I got my science teacher to work it out for me and it ends up according to some guys refraction law that

"FOR EVERYFOOT UNDERWATERTHE FISH IS YOU NEED TO AIM8" INCHES BELOWTHE FISH."But its hard to guestimate sometimes so I usually just let loose!

robow7

Ah yes, Snell's law. You get to play with that one a lot in physics and geometric optics classes. Grizz, your law of shooting low by 8"doesn't hold up because it doesn'ttake into account how far above the water you (your eye)is so your rule of thumb is not correcta lot of the time, but the idea is correct, Aim low and if the fish is deep, then aim even lower andif you're like me, you'll still shoot over the fish.ha. Check out this site and take a look at the model towards the bottom. In the top field, leavethe mediaas air and thenclick on water forthe bottom media. Now move the flashlightalong the arc and you can see the difference as to where it will appear. Remember if you are shooting straight down at the fish, then hold right on independent of how deep he is. The model will display what I am talking about.

http://www.ps.missouri.edu/rickspage/refract/refraction.html