TWANG

Just curious after reading the "crud ring" post. Cayugad uses 50/50 alcohol and windshied washer fluid. Is that the regular alcohol from the pharmacy? Sounds like a cheap way to go. Cayugad,....If you read this post, "How does it work"?

What do you guys use and do you run a wet patch and then follow up with a dry,...or is the dry patch not necessary.

Also I read Cayugad's comment about the breech seizing up. Can someone explain that? How do you keep it from happening? Until I get that Omega in my hand I may not understand what the Breech plug is. I own a TC .54cal Renegade right now.

Thanks guys!

cayugad

Go to a pharmacy or a Wal Mart and get the 91% isopropyl alcohol. I mix it 50/50 with car windshield washer fluid. Wet (not dripping wet) a patch and starting at the muzzle work downward in short strokes all the way to the breech of the rifle. Never put the patch in and push it straight down to the breech. It is a good way to get the patch stuck. Also if you make sure the bolt is open, or the striker is back so that air can pass through the breech plug you will find less of a chance of getting the patch stuck. Once you reach the breech pull the patch back up on the jag. You can turn it over or put a second wet patch on the jag and work that .. what ever you like. After that I like to run about one or two dry patchs, again in short strokes from the muzzle to the breech just to make sure the bore is dry. This will help you load the next sabot in many cases...

The breech plug seizing up is a big thing to watch. On the breech of the new inlines the back end comes out, unlike the Renegade you now own. The breech plug has a series of threads you screw into the breech of the rifle barrel. Be sure and coat the threads with an anti seize compound. Even with all this, on some rifles, do to the blow back experiences from shooting and the heat of the igniton, the plug can lock it self into the barrel and become almost impossible to remove at times.

To make sure this does not happen, never screw the breech plug TIGHT into the breech of the rifle barrel Just finger tight is plenty and back it off just a slight amount so you know it is loose. After you have shot the rifle about 10 times, take your breech plug wrench and just give the plug a turn back and fourth. That will break up any fowling that might be collecting in the threads of the breech plug and causing it to seize....

MikeE51848

Here is an e-mail text I received from Knight, concerning in part, the same subject. I think, as has been said many times, what works for you, works for you and maybe not the next guy! I have always used pellets but will now try loose 777.

MICHAEL, I USE OUR KNIGHT RED HOT (BARNES EXPANDER) BULLETS 250 GRS. TO 285 GRS. TO 300 GRS.... I ALSO USE A SPIT-PATCH BETWEEN SHOTS (NOT ANY CLEANERS),... SLIGHTLY FOULED BARRELS SHOOT BEST.. 100 TO 150 GR. CHARGES (PELLETS) ..LOOSE POWDER USUALLY ACHIEVES EVEN TIGHTER GROUPS !!!!! 777 POWDER WORKS GREAT !!!. OTHER BULLET DO NOT ALWAYS SHOOT LIKE OUR RED HOT BULLETS...COPPER BULLETS ARE LONGER AND HAVE A BETTER BALLISTIC COEFFICIENT....

MLKeith

make sure this does not happen, never screw the breech plug TIGHT into the breech of the rifle barrel Just finger tight is plenty and back it off just a slight amount so you know it is loose. After you have shot the rifle about 10 times, take your breech plug wrench and just give the plug a turn back and fourth. That will break up any fowling that might be collecting in the threads of the breech plug and causing it to seize....
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All of the above is good information; however, I disagree with leaving your breechplug loose. I am a believer in using teflon tape and makeing sure the front face is covered with the tape and the breechplug is tight enough that there is not a path for the gas and fouling to get into the threads. I set my plug snug (not real tight just enough to seal the end) and I do not back it off until I am done shooting and at that time I back the plug out about one turn while the rifle is hot and then it removes without a problem when I get time to clean. I also do not shoot 777 anymore as it is the biggest contributor to stuck breechplugs due to the relatively violent initial shock it creats due to sharp pressure rise at ignition. Other powders will give the same velocity or exceed what 777 can develop without the sharp slap and resultant high recoil. My choice is Black Mag'3 and my second choice is American Pioneer Powder, I suspect the new Goex Pinacle will fit right in there as it is likely the same as American Pioneer as it was a joint effort with Goex and APP from all the info I have been able to get. These powders will not creat the same crud ring that 777 makes either.

rick_reno

What timing. My car was beeping at me that my windsheild wiper fluid was low for about a month so I picked a big bottle up yesterday ($.94 at Wally World) and I've already got a bottle of that alcohol here. I'll mix some up before I head off to the range, we don't have water there and it'd be nice to have something to swab the barrel with. Thanks Cayugad!

bigcountry

There are a few reasons I swab between shots. One is I want the gun to show me how it shoots on a clean bore cause thats what I will be hunting with. At least a bore that has been shot thru and then cleaned. Also I stay away from alcohol and windshield stuff. I find its not needed for 777 or pyrodex. It has ammonia which can be hydroscopic. Good ole spit or No 13 cleaner from T/C does the trick. Never needed anything more.

Triple Se7en

In a pinch, plain Windex works good too. The fine mist spray puts it on the patch lightly & evenly. Use both sides of a dry patch afterwards. I buy a small spray bottle of auto scent spray & spill the scent, rinse & fill with alky/Windex 50-50.

With tape, snugging the plug works best.... with anti-seize grease.... just turn it until it stops... then crack it loose & re-hand tighten every several shots to bust the crust that 777 brings to the plug. CVA Breechplug & Nipple Grease is the best I've used. Put on liberally... all threads covered.

1950KID

If you get the isopropyl alcohol, and put a little Dawn dishwashing detergent in it, that will work. The reason for the alcohol is that whatever residue is left in the barrel will evaporat a lot faster than it would take the water type to dry. Use a wet patch, then a dry patch. If you do this after every shot, the dry patch shouldn't be too cruded up. Use it for the wet patch after the next shot. I can't help being cheap.

Tahquamenon

For sabot shooting: Bone dry and clean barrel is where you will find the best accuracy and consistancy.

Damp/spit/moist patch,
then a 99% Isopropyl Alcohol Patch,
then a dry patch or two in-between each shot.

For hunting after I have loaded the powder and sabot, I'll run a natural lube patch followed by a dry patch to control any flash rust.

Right on with what was mentioend about loosening/snugging up the breech plug after 7-10 shots.

Pittsburghunter

I have used T/C gorilla greese for my breech plugs ever since I first owned my Scout carbine. I make sure that I tighten up the breech plug too.

Not real tight just snug enough to prevent any blow back into the threads. I also only shoot 20-30 rounds at a time through any given ml so I have not experienced any problems with the plug getting stuck. On the other hand my son's MDM will be pretty tough to remove after only ten shots so backing his off a little may help. We will try that next time we go out.