caionneach

I am presuming from the lack of response to my question that no one who has a Lyman Great Plains Flintlock rifle is experiencing the problem noted by the author of the article on the Lyman Great Plains flint rifle. The problem, he stated, was the frizzen was angled in such a way that the flint had to be moved forward in the hammer's jaws or turned upside down in order to provide adequate striking surface and direct the spark down to the flash pan. The hammer would apparently strike the frizzen without the flint having struck the frizzen adequately to flash the pan. I don't know. Maybe he put together a kit and did something weird with his lock while fitting it to the stock.

At any rate, I am glad to know no one responding in this discussion has experienced that problem. My next rifle will be a .54 cal Lyman Great Plains Rifle. I think Samuel Hawken is smiling about my choice, and probably thinks it's a good one.

RiverOtter

I think you'll like the Great Plains. You didn't say which barrel you're getting, but the regular Great Plains is a 1:60" twist, which is quite accurate with roundball (and is the barrel that I have), and the Hunter is a 1:32" twist, better for more modern sabot style loads. One thing to pay attention to is the owners manual. They specify a max of 70gr of FFF and 90gr FF for .50cal roundball and 80gr FFF and 100gr FF for .54cal roundball. If you choose to use a maxi ball instead take 10gr off each of those max powder charges. Enjoy!

caionneach

It's coming back to me now. I recall that those are almost identical to the recommendations which Thompson Center had for their Renegade .54 percussion rifle.

I recall, after several years, that I really enjoyed shooting round balls. Not sure why, maybe they were more accurate than the Maxis I used. It makes a little more sense to go ahead and get the 1:32" rifling and use sabot type bullets like Maxi balls. That doe I shot probably couldn't have hit the ground faster if I had shot her with a Maxi though.

Kenneth Smith
Monroe, Louisiana

caionneach

One last question, but it pertains to flintlock shooting technique in general rather than to the Lyman Great Plains rifle in particular: how much 4f blackpowder goes in the flash pan?

Related to that, are there measuring devices that will give you a charge of the right amount of powder for the flash pan based on volume?

Also, will blackpowder substitutes work in a blackpowder rifle? That is, does Pyrodex become ignited from a flashpan ignition? Will Pyrodex and other substitutes work in the flashpan itself?

Thanks.

Kenneth Smith

livbucks

A pan charger will dispense about 3 gr of powder per push. Sometimes it is more or less, and you may have to give it a little more or stop pouring it in and dump a little. I tap mine to loosen up the powder, push in the plunger and release while still holding my finger on the hole. Then move your finger and pour the charge in the pan. Then I give the gun a little side to side shake to put the powder against the hole and distribute it in the pan.

Substitutes may work in the pan, in the most ideal conditions, but the guys who are experienced on this board told me that it is unreliable to use substitutes in the pan. Blackpowder ignites at a lower temp and catches from sparks much better than the others. With low humidity, the very best spark and a little luck, substitutes MAY ignite in the pan.

Briman

To a certain degree. Lyman doesn't send you a Block of wood to carve a stock out of, but doesg give you a stock that is carved, and partially inletted. I had to finish the inletting for the barrel channel, lock, tang, estachions (sp?),trigger guard, and most difficult of all, the buttplate. Other brands can be put together by simply screwing the parts together, but Lymans take quite a bit of fitting and inletting to even start thinking about putting together. The metal parts except the barrel are rough cast, so you also have to file and polish them smooth before you brown or blue them- there arn't any brass parts like on other brands of MLs. There are upsides and downsides to the kit. On the upside, you get to learn alot about metal finishing and inletting, and you can fit the furniture to the stock tightly and smoothly to get a quality look. On the downside, its not a project for a novice, for someone who doesn't have alot of time, and if it isn't done very carefully, the gun will not look well.


Lyman frizzen- I've been using cut Agate flints as I haven't bothered to source out any englich knapped flints yet. I just set the flints in and lay it up against the frizzen so that it touches the frizzen 1/2 up and tighten them down. They do throw good sparks, and there is never a problem with igniting the priming charge.

caionneach

That is a truly beautiful rifle. I have a couple of modern rifles, but for some reason a flinter just looks better than a modern rifle.

I don't think I will build mine from a kit, however, thanks to input from this board. I would like to do that one day, but not when deer season is approaching!

Kenneth Smith
Monroe, Louisiana

caionneach

I appreciate the feedback. Everyone who has contributed to this discussion who actually has a Lyman Great Plains Flint rifle has not had the ignition problem mentioned in that article. That is very good news to me.

Kenneth

caionneach

Check out the components page at "The Hawken Shop" for a very useful looking flinters tool. The tool includes a device to clear out the breech hole near the flash pan.

http://www.thehawkenshop.com/misccomponent.asp

A write-up on the tool is on this page: http://www.thehawkenshop.com/catalog5.htm

I would think it would be an indispensable addition to a flinters possibles bag.

bronko22000

caionneach - I never knew lyman had such a "problem" with their frizzens. In fact, I have replaced my T/C frizzens with Lymans. All it takes is a bit of grinding around the screw hole. I have better ignition and longer frizzen life with the Lymans.
Back to your question, the lyman is a good choice.