Hollow point sabots
 

Was wondering the advantages or any disadvantages might be expected using a hollow point saboted bullet.

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

Compared to what ?

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

i shot a doe in ny with a T/C cheapshot 240 gr sabot hp....and it knocked the hell out of her....had a doe in early seaon muzzleloader in pa hit with a patched round ball at 35 yds with a heart shot and she still ran 80 yds....with the exit hole the same size as the entry hole....that's my exp............bob

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

I have had really good luck with the barnes mz expander. I have shot several deer with them and it has just absolutely floored them. I got a nice 8 pointer with the muzzleloader and it did not even flinch. It just dropped. However, I tried the cheap hornady saboted hollow point though and it did not expand at all. The deer I shot with the hornady ran about 100 yards before it fell. The Barnes expander had a perfect mushroom and it retained all of it's weight eventhough we were shooting a really big load of powder. I would recommend it to anybody that wants to drop a deer in their tracks. I like the 250 grain bullet with 115 grains of FFG. ;) I hope this helps somebody get a good idea what to get.

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

I've been using 250g barnes expanders for 4 years. Performance is great. My load is 3 pyrodex pellets--it kicks, but its tough on the critters. Expansion is quick--the inside of deer or antelope demonstrate this. I can't speak to retained bullet weight because even out to 240 yards or so, I've never recovered a bullet. My only beef is they are hard to load, which has yet to be a problem. I think those same tight tolerances are why they shoot so well! You can't go wrong with this bullet, particularly if you are shooting magnum loads.

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

I am glad to see that other people like them as much as I do! Lol i have to use a rubber mallet to get the things down the barrel, but like you said, the tight tolerances make it more accurate. How does it work on elk? I am anxious to find out.:)

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

What kind of rifle do you have that you would have to pound a projectile down the barrel in order to seat it? The projectile is supposed to expand somewhat on the way out the barrel. During that expansion is when the projectile is meant to engage the rifling. Perhaps you are on to something with it fitting that tight. I am not sure due to limited experience with the in line rifles.

I am getting an in-line in a few days. I have purchased some T/C .44 caliber 240 grain Cheap Shots and some .45 caliber Hornady 300 grain XTP's to try in the new rifle. Is there any real advantage in loading 150 grains of pyrodex or what ever? I was thinking more of the lines in the 100 grain range.

Also what is a good breech plug grease?

Thanks in advance.

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

There are no standard barrel tolerances in muzzleloader land, and jacketed bullets or Barnes copper alloy bullets do not engrave / deform / expand on the way down.


Never-Seize is a good breech plug lube, for accurate loads-- it varies by gun. 90-110 grains of Pyrodex is in the ballpark.

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

Thanks Randy for the information. I will be getting a Knight Wolverine .50 caliber but with the 22 inch barrel. I guess I am happy with that. Knight is a good brand. I don't plan on shooting over 100 yards with it anyway. I thought I would mount a 1.5 X 4 power scope with Weaver mounts. I hunt heavy brush most of the time, and only a few places there might be a long shot.

I will try like you said then and start out with 80 grains of Pyrodex Select. Although I have some Triple Se7en also. Which do you think is better in the in-lines? Are wonderwads necessary with sabots? All my hunting life I used sidelocks this should be a new experience for me.... Thanks for the info on the breech plug greese also...I sure hope this gun shoots good. I read posts of how some of the people can not get their guns to group well. That's always in the back of your mind I guess.

Thanks again

RE: Hollow point sabots
 

cayugad
shot two deer this year in PA one a doe in the early m/l season, using a percision silver lighting 300 grain green tip sabot.The other deer was taking during the regular big game season, using a percision qt's 45 cal 350 grain blue tip sabot.The charge was 70 grains of triple 777,in my 54 cal. thunderhawk.My finding are the green tip sabot has excellent pefomance ,broke both shoulder and there was a exit wound,deer went three step @ down.Now with the blue qt's 45 cal. sabot there was only one hole threw both lungs, with no exit hole,that what made tracking so hard.Distance on both deer were about the same 75 to 85 yards ,the poly tip qt's did not hit bone,but yet could not make a pass threw
The QT (blue tip) is designed to dump all its energy inside the cavity. Job done. Our Dead Center and SL are designed to shoot through. Both bullets did exactly what they are designed to do. Glad to see that everything is working and thanks for supporting our products.

I sent an e mail to percision this is what they had to say about the difference between the blue poly tips and the green silver lighting

cayugad I will stay with the silver lighting to me they are the better sabot bullet
The next choice is the hornady sst 300 sabot I am reading some great reviews on stopping power and how they shoot.
I also like the pyrodex select over the triple 777
My thunderhawk shoots 110 grains to 120 of select and you can shoot the gun all day ,now with triple 777 70 to 75 grains is more then enough before recoil is sharp .I do think if I had 120 grains of select behind that poly tip sabot this year on that 8 pointer it would have made a hole threw the other side .
NO WADS BEFORE THE SABOT