Muzzleloader has me stumped
#11
the secret is to season the bore properly!
I have never had to lube sabots...EVER and i have thousands of them. Literally over 3k sabots sitting in my supplies right now. The right way is choose the sabot that fits your bore correctly. Use good quality mineral based oil or synthetic bore oil and make sure to swab them out well before firing your first shot. Bore Bummer is garbage compared to a quality synthetic or even Ballistol. I have inlines costing from $250ish to worth a couple grand and i would not use that junk in any of them. My conicals come lubed already from BullShop with Dan's NASA lube and for some i use a modified version of the recipe Idaho Lewis came up with.
If you want to load over and over without the high cost of Blackhorn 209, try BlackMZ.....Now its sold by Shooters World. Alliant dropped it and SW picked it up from American Pioneer Powder. Far less corrosive than Pyro, just as easy to ignite and cleans up easy. It just sucks in the FPS department but so does Pyro.
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog...roductId/83678
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog...roductId/83680
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...shooters-world
Anything else besides BH209 and SW Black will need some swabbing between shots. Its just the way it is with inlines and 209 ignition.
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern wv
Posts: 3,646
You folks who think lubricants do not penetrate the surface of steel, that shows what you know about it, to prove the point, wipe a blued rifle down with gum cutter 2+2 and let dry, then hit it with an oilcloth and you can visually see how much oil the steel absorbs. I'm done posting in this forum, like trying to explain things to democrats!
#13
You folks who think lubricants do not penetrate the surface of steel, that shows what you know about it, to prove the point, wipe a blued rifle down with gum cutter 2+2 and let dry, then hit it with an oilcloth and you can visually see how much oil the steel absorbs. I'm done posting in this forum, like trying to explain things to democrats!
Did you ever try to season a new fry pan or reseason one that someone scrubbed with steel wool ? It takes hours in a super hot oven (400*+) to even start the process.
As I said before I thought the same until I saw the light. And I've been shooting muzzleloaders and using BB way back in the early 70s. So please just accept the fact that you were incorrect. No reason to take your ball and run home.
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern wv
Posts: 3,646
RR you are knowledgeable about centerfire firearms but apparently you may need a bit more education on modern muzzleloaders. I did not see anyone saying that oil is not absorbed into the steel. Actually I myself don't think it does, at least not very deep. Rather it bonds to the surface of the metal creating a protective barrier much like paint. Seasoning of a bore with bore butter just does not happen. Just no way a bore can get that hot for that long for bore butter to accomplish such a task.
Did you ever try to season a new fry pan or reseason one that someone scrubbed with steel wool ? It takes hours in a super hot oven (400*+) to even start the process.
As I said before I thought the same until I saw the light. And I've been shooting muzzleloaders and using BB way back in the early 70s. So please just accept the fact that you were incorrect. No reason to take your ball and run home.
Did you ever try to season a new fry pan or reseason one that someone scrubbed with steel wool ? It takes hours in a super hot oven (400*+) to even start the process.
As I said before I thought the same until I saw the light. And I've been shooting muzzleloaders and using BB way back in the early 70s. So please just accept the fact that you were incorrect. No reason to take your ball and run home.
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,743
You folks who think lubricants do not penetrate the surface of steel, that shows what you know about it, to prove the point, wipe a blued rifle down with gum cutter 2+2 and let dry, then hit it with an oilcloth and you can visually see how much oil the steel absorbs. I'm done posting in this forum, like trying to explain things to democrats!
I was just saying that oils and like lubricants can attract and hold dirt and un burned powder, which in return
narrows the diameter of the inside of the bore, which will lead to harder ,loadings!
and I never meant any offence to you RR< and am sorry if you took it that I did, wasn't my view or point! at all !
was just saying there are better bullet sabot powder combo's that can be used that don't require any Bore butter to make loading easier!
#16
I never said metal doesn't absorb oils(if your referring to me that I did)
I was just saying that oils and like lubricants can attract and hold dirt and un burned powder, which in return
narrows the diameter of the inside of the bore, which will lead to harder ,loadings!
and I never meant any offence to you RR< and am sorry if you took it that I did, wasn't my view or point! at all !
was just saying there are better bullet sabot powder combo's that can be used that don't require any Bore butter to make loading easier!
I was just saying that oils and like lubricants can attract and hold dirt and un burned powder, which in return
narrows the diameter of the inside of the bore, which will lead to harder ,loadings!
and I never meant any offence to you RR< and am sorry if you took it that I did, wasn't my view or point! at all !
was just saying there are better bullet sabot powder combo's that can be used that don't require any Bore butter to make loading easier!
Exactly what I said. BB will only make things worse with successive shots. Fouling will adhere to the BB on the walls of the bore. Yes it will be softer but will still be there. This will make the next loading tighter and adding more BB to the sabot will continue to add more gunk for the fouling to cling to. Its best to use a sabot/bullet combo that is tight but not overly so and swab between shots. Swabbing with a damp patch of 1:1 Windex and alcohol does this nicely. I carry mine in a small spray bottle when shooting at the range. Swabbing will get your bore fairly clean so it will make the bore more closely resemble a clean bore which would be your first shot during a hunt. With the right bullet/sabot combo you should have no problem loading a second shot which should suffice during most hunting situations.
Last edited by bronko22000; 09-28-2021 at 04:49 PM.