I mention this in a round about way in my Paper Patching Video, But I didn’t go in to Detail on it. First off, This is NOT something i started, and i am NOT taking Credit for it, I STRONGLY believe in Giving Credit where it is Due! This was a tip given to me by Dave Gullo (Owner of Buffalo Arms) Quite some time ago, For anyone that might not know, Dave Gullo is a VERY Accomplished WORLD Class Shooter, If you do a Search on BPCR Shooters/Shooting etc. You will find Dave Gullo, He is 1 of The Biggest Names in the Sport.

Dave and i were visiting in Buffalo Arms 1 Day on how far up the Bullet to Wrap the Paper Patch? Dave explained that he Wraps EXACTLY the Bearing Surface ONLY. I started using Dave’s method and have had REALLY good luck with it. But in all fairness/honesty I have also had good luck in the past with the Patch Wrapped quite a ways forward of the “Bearing Surface”, But I wasn’t shooting the kind of Distance, and amount of it back then that i am now. Dave Swears this is Important, and I don’t doubt him a bit! This is PRECISELY why i started doing it this way. When Guy’s like Dave Gullo and Lee Shaver’s are willing to Share Tips I pay CLOSE attention.

Here is how Dave explained it. Lets take a common Paper Patch bullet Diameter for .45 Cal as Example here, it’s Pretty safe to say that .442 is one of the Most common Diameters. Take one of your 442s and push it through a .441 Sizer, This will expose the Bearing Surface of the Bullet, Now that you know the Bearing Surface, Wrap the Paper Patch EXACTLY to it, and DON’T go forward of it.

Here is a pic Showing how nicely the above Procedure exposes the Bearing Surface


Patched up to the “Bearing Surface” and ready for Flight

Yep and I personally think it’s important to size “ before “ patching . I would never patch and then size a bullet although I’ve seen it taught that way . Good info Lewis. Thanks for all the sharing you do to help others

The Twisted Paper Tails are another thing the BPCR Guy’s are REAL STICKLERS about! And it makes VERY good sense to me Why, The Bullet Base is what actually steers the Bullet, NOT the Nose.

I believe 1/8” Thick Wool Felt is the ABSOLUTE BEST way to go, especially if you choose to leave a Twisted Tail on your Patch, it is my theory, and my Theory ONLY that Wool would be more forgiving, allowing the Twisted Tail to “Form” in the Wad, Where as a HARD Vege Fiber Type, or LDPE (Poly) Would NOT be Forgiving

With a Twisted Paper Tail hanging from the Bullet Base, there is NO POSSIBLE Way to make each Twisted Tail Identical, or load them identical etc. EVERY Tail will be slightly different. The Twisted Tail has no choice but to Fold over to one side or the Other. As i state in my Paper Patching Video, Think about the last influence that is made on the Bullet as it exits the Bore? You see how the Wad COULD have a Negative effect on the Bullet Base With a Twisted Paper Tail folded over in NO TELLING what direction as it exits the Bore? I believe there is a VERY GOOD Reason why the SERIOUS Competition Guy’s are STICKLERS on Twisted Paper Tails, and a Shallow Cupped base Bullet being a more sought after Paper Patch design, as it allows you a Place to get RID of the Twisted Tail.

With a Flat Base design bullet I advise Playing with Patch Height and Tightly “Tucking” the Paper Patch instead of Twisting a Tail. In the end your Bullet should Stand Perfectly when placed on a Flat Surface (Think of how you want the Bullet to Exit the Bore). This is obviously not possible with a Twisted Paper Tail, They Tip Over.

Here is a Picture of a nicely “Tucked” Paper Tail, This is NOT my Photo, But it represents how i Patch a Flat Base Bullet, I don’t have a Good Photo of my own showing my Tucked Bases, My pictures all Show my Bullets Standing. Whoever “Tucked” this Patch did a VERY Nice job on it


And here you can see how PERFECT they Stand with a “Tucked” Tail

The above is “Food for thought” I have shot some Pretty Darn good Groups with Twisted Tails Hanging Down, and my Patches Way forward of the Bearing surface. The SERIOUS Competitors that go to EVERY extent to nicely “Tuck” Paper Tails, and Patch PERFECTLY to the Bearing Surface are Shooting out to 1,000 Yards. I don’t believe it’s gonna be as big a deal at 100, 200 Yards. I think these Extra little attention to Detail things are gonna come in to play the Farther you get Down Range. The Average Guy that is Hunting to 100, maybe 200 Yards might not notice any difference? But if you Sit down at a Bench and Start Trying to Shoot MOA at 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, Hundred Yards etc. That is a VERY Different Animal!! EVERY little attention to detail will come in to play at longer Ranges. I believe this is why the SERIOUS Competition Guy’s and Gal’s Go to the Great lengths that they do to make EVERYTHING perfect, It pays off for them, if not, Why would they bother?

I don’t Shoot Competition, So why do i go to these lengths? Because i am a Perfectionist in EVERYTHING i do (Or at least i am called that on a REGULAR Basis by those that know me well) if something interests me that is. I have Been this way all of my Life. These Muzzleloaders REALLY Grabbed my interest, enough to Dig Deep. My Results show that my efforts have been worth it, at least i feel so

Bronko, i can’t picture the reinforcement binder rings you speak of here? I am interested to see what they look like?

One BIG Downside to this Tail “Tucking” method is it increases the Chances of pushing a Bullet Through the Paper Jacket while Loading, i have actually done that, more than 1 time. Bullet Fit becomes more important, They Can NOT fit to tight.

As I’ve said before, 1 of the Tips that Lee Shaver’s Gave me was on Bullet Bases, He explained the importance of a SHARP Bullet Base, and to except NOTHING less since the Base is what actually Steers the Bullet.

How is this for Sharp Bullet Bases? :D These are the BACO .444-400s that i shoot SO WELL. I pushed 1 of these through the Paper Jacket 1 time, you can see how easy that could happen here, These Bases are KNIFE Sharp. I had to tinker to Combat this Problem, in which i solved :cool2:

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