T.C. renegade problems
09-25-2018, 07:29 PM
#11
Typical Buck
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 995
Long ago, in a state far far away, I was introduced to Swiss real black powder and I have never looked back. Of all the bp's I have tried, and I have tried pretty much everything under the sun including an attempt at making my own, Swiss just flat out performs under all conditions in all my caps and stones. My suggestion would be to grab a pound of Swiss and give it a good run. It runs in my Rennies flawlessly and has for many years. Sure some of these subs may get you a little more speed but you can bet they aren't anywhere close to the consistency of Swiss. I even converted the old man to Swiss a long time ago. Give it a try, if your flame channel isn't compromised then I'd be willing to bet Swiss will cure your problems.
09-26-2018, 05:56 AM
#12
Fork Horn
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 422
Well... I disagree with your first assessment... I have never had a problem shooting T7 in my Renegades when I use #11 Mag caps or even better yet the RWS Dynamit Noble 1075+ cap. I did have problems in very cold weather early on when using a Musket cap not getting ignition. Back when Idaho required a rock sparker or cap sidelock shooter I hunted several years with Renegades and T7 and in some really cold weather and still did not have a problem. For me, and it has been mentioned in several posts, the key is to tap powder out under the cap. I would always pour what I felt was 5-7 grains of powder down the tube and then tip and tap the ML on the side to move the powder out under the cap.
Mike, If you trust and have faith in it That is ALL that matters! I have no experience with T7 nor will i EVER, My experiences were with Pyrodex P, In my opinion that stuff is FAR WORSE than Garbage. I use Swiss 2 and 3F EXCLUSIVELY, This Swiss powder goes off IMMEDIATELY, and it does so EVERYTIME.
What size are you guy’s Drilling your Nipples out to in order to get Reliable ignition? Might help the OP if he is using a Sub
09-26-2018, 06:19 AM
#13
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
Mike, If you trust and have faith in it That is ALL that matters! I have no experience with T7 nor will i EVER, My experiences were with Pyrodex P, In my opinion that stuff is FAR WORSE than Garbage. I use Swiss 2 and 3F EXCLUSIVELY, This Swiss powder goes off IMMEDIATELY, and it does so EVERYTIME.
What size are you guy’s Drilling your Nipples out to in order to get Reliable ignition? Might help the OP if he is using a Sub
I tried GOEX for several years at the local Rondies, did not take long for me to give up on that and go back to T7 shooting and PRB's.
Drilling - If they need to be drilled - I drill them to .031-.032. Most of them are there already but a lot if them are much tighter.
Last edited by sabotloader; 09-26-2018 at 06:31 AM.
09-26-2018, 06:52 AM
#14
Fork Horn
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 422
If you have to use real black Swiss is certainly the powder to use but I have been told that there is another one on the market that equals Swiss - Seems like it was Olde Eynsford or Schuetzen built a new variety that runs parallel to Swiss - can not remember the name at this moment since I do not use it anymore. Swiss was never available around this area.
I tried GOEX for several years at the local Rondies, did not take long for me to give up on that and go back to T7 shooting and PRB's.
Drilling - If they need to be drilled - I drill them to .031-.032. Most of them are there already but a lot if them are much tighter.
I tried GOEX for several years at the local Rondies, did not take long for me to give up on that and go back to T7 shooting and PRB's.
Drilling - If they need to be drilled - I drill them to .031-.032. Most of them are there already but a lot if them are much tighter.
Mike, I admit i am SPOILED with access to All Brands of Real Black powder with Buffalo Arms just a short Drive away, in fact Buffalo Arms doesn’t even Carry a Substitute powder of any kind, I have looked at the Olde Eynsford Powder but have yet to try it. I can get Olde E For 20 bucks a pound Compared to 26 a pound for the Swiss Stuff, I need to try the Olde Eynsford stuff!
Is Trip 7 easier, more reliable to ignite than Pyrodex? I kinda thought that maybe i got a bad pound of Pyrodex P? I know Idahoron has had good luck with the Stuff, But MAN O MAN did i ever have bad luck with it
09-26-2018, 07:51 AM
#16
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
Mike, I admit i am SPOILED with access to All Brands of Real Black powder with Buffalo Arms just a short Drive away, in fact Buffalo Arms doesn’t even Carry a Substitute powder of any kind, I have looked at the Olde Eynsford Powder but have yet to try it. I can get Olde E For 20 bucks a pound Compared to 26 a pound for the Swiss Stuff, I need to try the Olde Eynsford stuff!
Is Trip 7 easier, more reliable to ignite than Pyrodex?
To be honest - no! - T7 (loose) does take make heat to get ignition but the hotter caps do not have a problem with that. T7-3f ignites easier and burns cleaner than 2f. Plus 3f is a ton easier to get out under the nipple in a sidelock. OOP's missed your point - in real life Pyro should be more easily ignited than T7. I tried the Pyro's for awhile but could never get comfortable with them + they are so darn corrosive in a blued barrel (IMO). T7 is corrosive also because of the Sulphur and Potasium - but not near as corrosive as real BP and far less than the Pyros!
I kinda thought that maybe i got a bad pound of Pyrodex P?
I know Idahoron has had good luck with the Stuff, But MAN O MAN did i ever have bad luck with it
People really dislike T7 because of the 'crud ring' - well for me the 'crud ring' is not a problem when ignited by caps and when I use it in an inline with 209 ignition I have adapted and made changes in what I use in the bore to minimize the 'crud ring' so it really is not a bother to me...
O remember a couple years ago I was on the search for BH-209 @ reduced prices - well it panned out I ended up getting 24 bottles of it from different the North40 stores for $18.00 a bottle. Another really good powder that I can now afford to shoot.
09-26-2018, 07:53 AM
#17
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
09-26-2018, 09:35 AM
#18
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,605
Olde Ensyford should be available from any place that sells Goex. Performance is much better than regular Goex and reviews claim the fouling is softer than Swiss. It was under $20/lb here but now its right around $20/lb at most places like Grafs. Notice that it is not FG, its just F which means it is probably not glazed with graphite.
Last edited by Gm54-120; 09-26-2018 at 09:39 AM.
09-26-2018, 12:46 PM
#19
Typical Buck
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 995
Old E is good, really good as a matter of fact but it is just a touch less consistent and a couple of percentage points slower than Swiss. Not enough to really make a deal of considering the price is around 6-8 bucks a pound less. And no I don't think it is glazed Gm54. I ran a few pounds of it a while back and found it is no easier to clean up than Swiss. But cleaning up a BP rifle isn't hard with pretty much anything anyway. Old E sets off just as easily but as I said, it's size consistency isn't as good as Swiss. I've seen several smokeless granules that weren't as consistent as Swiss though so it is a standard that noone else seems to be able to match.
09-26-2018, 03:22 PM
#20
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,746
Man I've been using Goex since the early 1970s and never had any problems with it. I still use it today and have several lbs. of both FFg and FFFg. I've also had good luck with Pyro RS and P out of my caplocks and my inline. Lately though in my inline I am using Alliant Black MZ. I have about 7 bottles of the stuff that I picked up in SC at Sportsman's Warehouse for $9 a lb. The only drawback I've found with it is that it likes to clump up. But that doesn't seem to effect it once you break them up.