cleaning
08-31-2017, 07:36 AM
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 413
Depends on what powder you use. Triple 7: I use a citrus cleaner, Blackhorn 209: I use Hoppes solvent or any centerfire cleaner would work. Pyrodex/Blackpowder: use a cleaner designed for pyrodex/ blackpowder: water or citrus cleaner.
08-31-2017, 07:58 AM
#3
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Posts: 10,917
Real black powder, Pyrodex, Triple Seven, Alliant, and American Pioneer all clean up easily with a bit of ordinary dish soap and room temperature water. Any solvent for Blackhorn.
08-31-2017, 08:11 AM
#4
Typical Buck
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 991
Semisane, I have found through a lot of trial and error that about the best soap for real black powder, I pretty much exclusively use Swiss, is that cheap Ajax dish soap. It seems to work the best of all of them. Dawn comes in a very close second. One little trick I ran across that makes barrel cleanup just a tad easier is to dry swab 2 or 3 strokes before you go to cleaning. Getting that layer of ash out beforehand seems to help a good little bit.
08-31-2017, 08:58 AM
#5
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
Semisane, I have found through a lot of trial and error that about the best soap for real black powder, I pretty much exclusively use Swiss, is that cheap Ajax dish soap. It seems to work the best of all of them. Dawn comes in a very close second. One little trick I ran across that makes barrel cleanup just a tad easier is to dry swab 2 or 3 strokes before you go to cleaning. Getting that layer of ash out beforehand seems to help a good little bit.
The two best products I could recommend are:
Plain old Blue Windex
and
Then the final thing... a true synthetic bore oil - no petroleum - no Teflon
or Slip 2000
Last edited by sabotloader; 08-31-2017 at 09:06 AM.
08-31-2017, 09:14 AM
#6
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,605
If you want 1 product for all the ML powders take a look at Ballistol. You thin it with water for real black and most subs. Use it straight for BH209 and centerfires. It has the same main ingredient as Montanna Xtreme. Only the solvent base is slightly different. It uses a type of alcohol and MX uses a type of ether.
I do REALLY like the MX Bore Conditioner for short to mid length storage. IMO there are better rust preventers but if your bore is clean, dry then oiled rust wont be an issue anyway.
As mentioned just avoid Teflon products IN the bore. They serve no purpose IN a bore. The only thing they can do is have a negative reaction to heat when fired.
BTW a great product for drying a bore cleaned with water or to remove oils is non chlorinated brake cleaner. Just dont get it on plastics or the stock finish to be safe. It evaporates quickly taking the water/oil with it. It is rather toxic though so only use in extremely well ventilated areas.
I do REALLY like the MX Bore Conditioner for short to mid length storage. IMO there are better rust preventers but if your bore is clean, dry then oiled rust wont be an issue anyway.
As mentioned just avoid Teflon products IN the bore. They serve no purpose IN a bore. The only thing they can do is have a negative reaction to heat when fired.
BTW a great product for drying a bore cleaned with water or to remove oils is non chlorinated brake cleaner. Just dont get it on plastics or the stock finish to be safe. It evaporates quickly taking the water/oil with it. It is rather toxic though so only use in extremely well ventilated areas.
Last edited by Gm54-120; 08-31-2017 at 09:23 AM.
09-01-2017, 07:32 AM
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,605
Hoppes Elite (water based) is probably ok for Triple7 but not #9 which is a oil based solvent. Triple7 should be cleaned with a water based solvent or just some slightly soapy water. Windex with a drop or 2 of liquid soap and some isopropyl alcohol would be at the top of my list for Triple7.
A little 91% rubbing alcohol or ISO-HEET fuel line deicer will greatly speed up evaporation of the water and prevent it from freezing. ISO-HEET is nearly pure isopropyl and easily found at any place that sells automotive stuff. Even Walmart has it. Regular HEET is methanol and should be avoided or at least avoid skin contact as much as possible.
A little 91% rubbing alcohol or ISO-HEET fuel line deicer will greatly speed up evaporation of the water and prevent it from freezing. ISO-HEET is nearly pure isopropyl and easily found at any place that sells automotive stuff. Even Walmart has it. Regular HEET is methanol and should be avoided or at least avoid skin contact as much as possible.
Last edited by Gm54-120; 09-01-2017 at 07:38 AM.
09-01-2017, 01:45 PM
#10
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,745
So...Just go back and reclean it. No big deal. Just use some alcohol to get that oil out of the bore the scrub away. Remember to give the bore a light coat of oil after cleaning and remove it before shooting using a dry patch.