Pellets vs. loose powder
#1
Pellets vs. loose powder
Okay,
I'm finally to the point that I'm ready to make some changes. I have a CVA Kodiak Magnum in .50 cal. Been shooting it for several years now. It seems no matter how careful I am I can't keep a consistent group when I am shooting. I've been using triple 7 pellets (100 grains) and have found I get the best results using T/C XTP 240 grain sabots. As I mentioned when I go to the range I have excellent groups one time and terrible the next. I keep the pellets in a zip loc bag with a silica pouch and swab the barrel after each shot.
In December I shot consistent 3/4 inch groups at 50 yards and thought I finally had it together. Then, this past week took a shot, from a rest, at a doe 48 yards broad side, standing and just creased her (hour and a half on my hands and knees and found one hair).
So, time to give up on pellets and try loose powder. Looking for advice/suggestions on where to start and what to do.
Thanks in advance!
I'm finally to the point that I'm ready to make some changes. I have a CVA Kodiak Magnum in .50 cal. Been shooting it for several years now. It seems no matter how careful I am I can't keep a consistent group when I am shooting. I've been using triple 7 pellets (100 grains) and have found I get the best results using T/C XTP 240 grain sabots. As I mentioned when I go to the range I have excellent groups one time and terrible the next. I keep the pellets in a zip loc bag with a silica pouch and swab the barrel after each shot.
In December I shot consistent 3/4 inch groups at 50 yards and thought I finally had it together. Then, this past week took a shot, from a rest, at a doe 48 yards broad side, standing and just creased her (hour and a half on my hands and knees and found one hair).
So, time to give up on pellets and try loose powder. Looking for advice/suggestions on where to start and what to do.
Thanks in advance!
#3
Pete,
That's the plan but there is so much out there in the way of loose powder not sure where to start. Looking for suggestions in that area.
Thanks!
That's the plan but there is so much out there in the way of loose powder not sure where to start. Looking for suggestions in that area.
Thanks!
Last edited by tankerchief; 01-24-2016 at 10:13 AM.
#5
I use loose pyrodex in a bunch of my guns. I like it, very consistent for me.
The T7 is good too, but the crud ring is much more of an issue that with pyro.
I would start at 100gr loose by volume, with whichever powder you choose.
The T7 is good too, but the crud ring is much more of an issue that with pyro.
I would start at 100gr loose by volume, with whichever powder you choose.
#7
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,425
I use Goex FFF black powder, have sighted in at least 10 inlines for my buddies using either the 240 or 300gr Hornady XTPs in .429 caliber and the Harvester plain green sabots...Every one has grouped great with either 80 or 85 grains of powder...I start at 80 and go to 100grs but have always found that sweet spot at 80 or 85grs...
#8
Over the years I've tried 777 and pyrodex in both loose form and pellets, as well as Jim Shockey's Gold powder, but not the sticks, in my Knight Disc Extremes. Other than horrible results with the Shockey's Gold, I enjoyed pretty consistent groups with the other powder once I found what my guns liked best. I was never sold on any of the pellets for several reasons. I didn't shoot a lot back then and the pellets would get banged around in my backpack and get old. When weighed at the end of season there was a lot of weight variation. Both of which IMO affect accuracy. All of you preach consistency of load and loading technique as the key to good groups. I agree. When BH 209 first hit the market I tried it and loved its ease of cleanup and performance. For a while, I used the loading tubes from Western Powder to measure my standard 110 Gr load. This spring I bought 100 Lane tubes and a digital powder scale. I now weight all my loads and put bullet, sabot and powder in the tubes with different color caps for the 100 and 110 gr loads of BH209 that I use. It works great and I find that my groups are extremely consistent. The screw on caps keep moisture out of the loads and they make loading follow up shots quick and easy. Easy clean up and no crud rings when using BH209 are added lagniappe. That's a Cajun term for "a little something extra."
My Knights seem to prefer the 110 gr load with 300 gr Harvester PT Gold's and the 100 gr load with their 260gr bullet. I use their Black Crush Rib sabots and standard Winchester 209 Primers for both loads. Loose powder makes load testing much easier than using pellets.
My Knights seem to prefer the 110 gr load with 300 gr Harvester PT Gold's and the 100 gr load with their 260gr bullet. I use their Black Crush Rib sabots and standard Winchester 209 Primers for both loads. Loose powder makes load testing much easier than using pellets.
#9
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 532
I know a lot of people use 777 and a lot of people complain about the crud ring. My recommendation would be to try some Swiss either in 2F or 3F if you can find it. From what I hear and from what I've been told by the owner at Dixon's ML store here in Hamburg PA. It's the best powder on the market for ML's. Plus you will find that it is only a couple dollars more expensive than 777. Don't know why 777 got to be so expensive.
Anyway just my 2 cents.
Anyway just my 2 cents.
#10
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
I have tried everything I could get my hands on over the last 55 years, My conclusions are real simple.
The best powder for side locks is Pyrodex. The best powder for inlines is Blackhorn 209.
The worst powders are the pellets they attract moisture and since those boxes are not seal they can start doing it right in the factory before they are shipped to the store.
_THIS IS FOR CLOSED IGNITIONS ONLY , OLD PLUNGER TYPES SHOULD NOT USE BLACKHORN.
I suggest a little test for you. Take your 777 and some Blackhorn out and shoot them so you know where the impact point is the take enough for 3 shots of each and put them in separate pans and set them in the yard over night then take them out and shoot them on the same target as before to see if the poi has changed. To do this you need a better designed BP than the normal CVA.
Speaking of which a BP with the flash hole burned out can cause your accuracy to be erratic with any powder it is the first thing to check when you have an accuracy problem.
The best powder for side locks is Pyrodex. The best powder for inlines is Blackhorn 209.
The worst powders are the pellets they attract moisture and since those boxes are not seal they can start doing it right in the factory before they are shipped to the store.
_THIS IS FOR CLOSED IGNITIONS ONLY , OLD PLUNGER TYPES SHOULD NOT USE BLACKHORN.
I suggest a little test for you. Take your 777 and some Blackhorn out and shoot them so you know where the impact point is the take enough for 3 shots of each and put them in separate pans and set them in the yard over night then take them out and shoot them on the same target as before to see if the poi has changed. To do this you need a better designed BP than the normal CVA.
Speaking of which a BP with the flash hole burned out can cause your accuracy to be erratic with any powder it is the first thing to check when you have an accuracy problem.