Hooked breech and wedge vs pinned barrel
 

What are the pros and cons of both types. I'm not sure if it wouldn't be best to use a flush kit on either one, so as not to disturb the bedding. However, what are the differences in actual useage?

OldBob

i prefer the wedge. It stays tighter over a longer period of time and easy to adjust when and if it does get loose. Popping pins sucks and they loosen up in not that long of time.

I also prefer the wedge. They have always tuned easier and shot better for me. In the rifles I built myself I always used the double wedge [two wedges]. I tuned them by using a center punch on the bottom of the loop, I prefer about 5# of pressure.

I will never ever-ever-ever buy another full-stock ML.

Down with pins - Down with pins - Down with pins!

I thought you were done with all sidelocks?

I will go with the wedge just for ease of cleaning.

Before I purchased my custom flintlock I would have never considered a pinned barrel. But now with that rifle in the collection, a pinned barrel I found the trick to it. Its not all that hard to clean actually. Plug the vent hole. Fill the barrel with soap and water. Then tilt it back and fourth a couple times, and pour out the dirty water. Repeat the process a few times. The swab the bore clean with wet patches of soap and water. When they come out clean, then dry patch it and of course oil it to be done. The trick to making a pinned barrel stay tight is, never take it out of the stock if you don't have to.

Granted a wedged barrel rifle is easier to clean. But you can make them loose as well. I took hate to pull a rifle from the stock, but do it all the time with wedged barrels. They seem to go back good.

For new shooters, get a wedged barrel. Shoot it clean it, and enjoy it. The one day, in the future get a pinned. Its a whole new animal. But one I enjoy just as much.

I like plains rifles and fortunately, they use wedges.

Had 6 / Sold 5 - Kept 1..... basically a wall-hanger. Sees the woods once every 3-4 years, for a day or two of hunting. If it ever got stolen off my wall, I would probably smile instead of frown.

I should have purchased the CVA Mountain Rifle instead, back in 2004. That's when CVA remanufactured / reintroduced the Mountain Rifle for a short time.... one, maybe two years Cabelas had them. I bought the Traditions Shenandoah 32'' instead and regretted it the very first time I had to clean that barrel.

Well hell. Let me put a smile on your face.

Send it to me.

OK, just as soon as my Homeowners sends me a $350 allowance for it.:biggrin:

MD54,

Yeah, it looks like a tedious repair, too. Maybe some brass brazing rod?

OldBob

Single wedge?
 

lemoyne,

I never did this, but it always looked to me as if it would be harder to get two wedges the right tension, rather than one. Obviously you have more experience with this.

OldBob

So, how do you feel about pins?:biggrin:

OldBob

Johnmorris,

Yeah, but here's a tip I was given. Even if you're not going to remove the lock, loosen it and bump it out to the side. If you don't, you wear a place where the lock meets the barrel, and might eventually cause a gap there. Another thing, you don't have to torque down on the lock bolt. Snug is fine. Its that last 1/8 of a turn that wears screw threads. If you want to go further, put a tiny amount of grease on the screw, and snug it. The lock is not going to fall off the gun if it doesn't have 60 FtLbs torque. It probably won't move anytime soon.

OldBob

This question comes up because of a conversation I had. The guy I was talking to said, "If you can clean a pinned barrel properly without removing the barrel, why remove the barrel on a hooked breech gun?" I didn't have any good answer. Now if your bedding on the hooked breech gun is perfect, it probably makes no difference. If it isn't that great, it could take a shot or to to settle everyhing in again. As MD 54 said, glas the breech area. OK, but if you're hesitant to do that, just don't fool with it.

But what you seem to be saying is, get one of each. Seems I've heard that refrain on here before.

OldBob

The answer is it's easier to clean the barrel with it off the stock. Even if you can clean it by leaving it on.

Unless you're shooting in high level target competition. Taking the barrel off to clean it doesn't hurt accuracy.

Pete,

After everyone's input, and some more looking around, I have to say that the wedge would be a preference, but I would not overlook a pinned gun if it checked the right boxes. For example, take the Pedersoli Jaeger. Not too long, flintlock, .54 caliber, fast twist barrel, rear sight back closer to your eye, it has a lot that I like. Yeah, double set triggers, but it has a roomy enough trigger guard that you might be able to wear gloves, and in any case, a single trigger replacement would not be a big deal. Its not strictly PC/HC. Wouldn't matter to me, and it has enough going for it that the pinned barrel would not be a deal-breaker. either. I'd like to see one.

OldBob

Lots of choices, but mine is plains rifles.

I've had pinned rifles. I thought cleaning them was a pain compared to guns using wedges. I have to do it in my kitchen, and it was more messy.

Sort list.
 

Pete,

One of my short list picks in the hooked-breech category is the Lyman Trade Rifle. .54, flint, single trigger, single wedge, but it sure isn't pretty. That doesn't affect function, and the objection is nitpicky. I'd probably pick a pretty pinned gun over the Trade Rifle, though. I'm sometimes illogical.

OldBob

Flash hole
 

Pete,

Do most flinters have removable flash holes?

OldBob

Some do, and some don't. I'm not sure which is the most. Most modern guns have a vent liner. Plus, some are converted that didn't have it originally. Probably more have it.

I have two of those Trade Rifles. One in .54 and the other .50. They are great shooters, easy to clean, excellent lock, and the touch hole does come out of them. Although the first thing I did was order a RMC touch hole and replace the Lyman one. The RMC works better and the Lyman is a spare. And get the ones that turn in and out on an Allen wrench VS a standard screw driver. Easier to put in and out and you don't slip off your mark and scratch the stock.

That works fine. Another thing you can do is get an old nipple, cut the nipple portion off and drill a hole through the center about 3/16". Force some clear vinyl tubing over it and screw it into the bolster. The other end of the tubing put in a container of soapy water and start swabbing the bore. That's what I used to do with my pinned ML until I got smart. Then I started using a product called Turkey Tracks. A cleaner you can buy online from Ft Chambers Muzzleloading shop.

Both of those methods are more messy than taking the barrel off. I've tried both.

I'll stay with guns with wedges.

Try a Zerk fitting. It's easier to convert than a nipple, and tube attachment is easier.

http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/blac...lush-tube.html

I've never heard much bad about them, except maybe soft frizzens. I always figured it could be bad flints.

Here's another question: I also heard that you don't/shouldn't hoss on the touch hole too much, another place that should merely be snugged. Supposedly this makes it easier to remove if it is a little cruddy in there. This could be a crutch for poor cleaning practices.

OldBob

Use anti-seize on the threads, and tighten it.

Tighten it as much as you'd tighten a nipple.

Bob - I always heard the opposite. I thought T/C frizzens were softer. I had changed my T/C Frizzens over to Lymans. All that was necessary is a bit of grinding on the pivot to make it fit the T/C lock.

Installing a vent liner to a barrel without one should be an easy proposition. A drill press with the proper bit and a tap is all you'd need.