Only able to take one shot without cleaning
#1
Only able to take one shot without cleaning
I have a TC Omega Z5 Muzzeloader and after I take one shot, the barrel gets fouled to the point where if I try to push another sabot down, it gets completely stuck, to the point where I would need a hammer to push it down.
Is this normal? I know some people who have shot at deer and missed and were able to reload two or 3 times without having to clean the barrel. Once I run a wet patch down the barell and a dry one, I can push the bullet down the barrel very smoothly and easily, but after just one shot on a clean barrel is out of the question,
I use Pyrodex 50/50 pellets, .50 cal 250 Gr. Shockwave Sabots and CCI 209 shotshell primers.
Is this normal? I know some people who have shot at deer and missed and were able to reload two or 3 times without having to clean the barrel. Once I run a wet patch down the barell and a dry one, I can push the bullet down the barrel very smoothly and easily, but after just one shot on a clean barrel is out of the question,
I use Pyrodex 50/50 pellets, .50 cal 250 Gr. Shockwave Sabots and CCI 209 shotshell primers.
#2
All rifles vary. What's strange in one is normal to another. It sounds like you have a real tight barrel. If swabbing between shots is a "problem," you might try a few things...
Change powders. Go to a powder that does not require swabbing as much. Such powders as BlackHorn 209, American Pioneer Powder.
change bullets. Sometimes going to a less diameter bullet can make a difference. For instance, I can shoot a .430 bullet or a .429 according to other brands. You might see if you can get a smaller diameter bullet. Not that it will solve the problem but it might. Another thing is after your first shot, if you need a follow up ... go to a smaller conical bullet that is slip fit and shoot that.
Take some JB Bore paste and work the barrel over real good. It can smooth out a barrel and take the ruff out of the bore and might give you that second shot.
Change powders. Go to a powder that does not require swabbing as much. Such powders as BlackHorn 209, American Pioneer Powder.
change bullets. Sometimes going to a less diameter bullet can make a difference. For instance, I can shoot a .430 bullet or a .429 according to other brands. You might see if you can get a smaller diameter bullet. Not that it will solve the problem but it might. Another thing is after your first shot, if you need a follow up ... go to a smaller conical bullet that is slip fit and shoot that.
Take some JB Bore paste and work the barrel over real good. It can smooth out a barrel and take the ruff out of the bore and might give you that second shot.
#4
Switching powders would be my absolute first suggestion. If it is a smooth and easy fit on a clean barrel then fouling is your problem not bullet/sabot fit. My second suggestion, if you are dead set on using one of the most corrosive BP substitutes on the market (pyrodex), then I would suggest you switch to Harvester crush rib sabots. These would be the ones you need with those shockwaves http://www.midwayusa.com/product/448...ets-pack-of-50 They do load easier on fouled barrels than the MMP's that the shockwaves are supplied with. But personally I would switch to BH209 or at least T7.
#5
Switching powders would be my absolute first suggestion. If it is a smooth and easy fit on a clean barrel then fouling is your problem not bullet/sabot fit. My second suggestion, if you are dead set on using one of the most corrosive BP substitutes on the market (pyrodex), then I would suggest you switch to Harvester crush rib sabots. These would be the ones you need with those shockwaves http://www.midwayusa.com/product/448...ets-pack-of-50 They do load easier on fouled barrels than the MMP's that the shockwaves are supplied with. But personally I would switch to BH209 or at least T7.
#6
Yes, T7 burns a bit hotter than pyro and your impact points would probably be higher. I'm not a pellet fan at all. I like loose powder of whatever I am using. You can make small changes to your load and fine tune your POI much more precisely. You would be shocked at how much a 5 grain change in powder can impact your groups. But anyway, you will definitely need to resight it in with ANY change you make. Be it sabot, bullet, powder or even primers. Any and all of them can greatly change your POI (point of impact).
#7
Yes, T7 burns a bit hotter than pyro and your impact points would probably be higher. I'm not a pellet fan at all. I like loose powder of whatever I am using. You can make small changes to your load and fine tune your POI much more precisely. You would be shocked at how much a 5 grain change in powder can impact your groups. But anyway, you will definitely need to resight it in with ANY change you make. Be it sabot, bullet, powder or even primers. Any and all of them can greatly change your POI (point of impact).
#9
Thanks again for all the help everyone. I took my first deer today with the muzzeloader and am looking forward to many more years to come.
#10
first thing I would do is get some loose powder and a powder measure. Save the pellets and shoot them off during the off season. As for the Shockwaves I too have a tight barrel in my one ML and threw their sabots away and got the Harvester Crush Rib sabots (black for a .451" bullet).
In the mean time you can have a cleaning jag on your ramrod and carry a couple patches in your pocket. Then all you need to do after shooting is put a patch in your mouth and get it wet with spit and swab the bore using both sides. It should remove enough fouling to make loading a little easier.
In the mean time you can have a cleaning jag on your ramrod and carry a couple patches in your pocket. Then all you need to do after shooting is put a patch in your mouth and get it wet with spit and swab the bore using both sides. It should remove enough fouling to make loading a little easier.