Cay, I know you know this, but when I clean my flinters, I take the lock off, put a toothpick in the vent and pour water or your preferred cleaner down the barrel...I pour that out and most of the residue goes with it...I then run 2-3 patches down the barrel and put the toothpick back in and pour water down the barrel again and pour out...This time I dry the barrel, shoot some WD-40 down the barrel, dry and then oil...I then clean the lock and I'm done...

Frankly, my Knight Disc takes me longer to clean than my flintlocks...

On the barrel...I have to admit I cheated...When I made mine, I bedded the barrel, each year I seal the edge of the barrel with my patch lube which is mainly bees wax... :)

The funny thing is, who cares if a little rust forms under the barrel, it's not going to hurt anything in our lifetime...

When I clean the custom rifle I use your method kind of. I leave the lock in place but push a tooth pick into the vent hole, then close the frizzen to hold it. I then dump simple green down the bore of it and tilt it back and fourth and then dump it out the muzzle of the barrel. I then swab the bore clean with simple green until the patches are nice and clean.

After that I dump isopropyl alcohol down the bore and again, back and fourth. But this time I tilt the rifle vent hole down and pull the pick and let it drain the alcohol out. Then I dry patch it until I get a nice dry patch. After that some Barricade and we are done after I wipe the lock off of course.

Logic and practical thinking shall not be tolerated nchawkeye!

Dave,

Those are Manufacturer's suggested retail prices...we all know they can be purchased for less.

BPS

Something that always upset me is they never offered a GPR LH kit.

Why? It's just as easy to box up a LH kit as a RH.

Many years ago, a person I used to shoot with got a Lyman GPR kit. And I saw it before he even started on it. BUT... when I saw it the next time, it was horrible looking. This person either had zero woodworking skills or he was drunk when he put it together. What a butcher job. Yet, he was shooting it that day and man did that thing shoot. After that I knew I was going to have one some day. But I did not try doing the kit. I am not lucky when it comes to fine wood working.

I figured if I went slow enough I might get it right. It would be a good winter project.

I can shoot the RH version ok, but the cheek piece would be on the wrong side. That looks kind of goofy, and if I sand it off it doesn't look like a Hawken anymore.

It's been the reason i've bought so many Renegades. No cheek piece.

If you're left handed, what are the reasons to get a LH sidelock:

1. Correct cheek piece, mentioned above.
2. Ease/speed/motion of Cocking/De-cocking. Enough extra motion to spook game?
3. Safety . . . Potential of cap flying apart or other malfunction immediately in front of face.

I'm wondering if safety is a real and maybe primary issue?

As mentioned above, you can choose a RH rifle with no cheek piece. Lefties are sort of used to inconvenience . . . like the way a chainsaw sprays the sawdust and oil all over you.

If it's safety, lefties really should get the LH version.

Bill

Bill..........Safety isn't an issue with me. The reason i'm a lefty is I lost the sight in my right eye. I'm really a RH shooter. I have to wear a patch on my right eye full time, so using a RH gun is actually safer for me.

I can also cock the hammer easily with my left thumb. So, that's a non issue too.

The cheek piece is my only issue, and that's also a non issue with guns that don't have them.

One advantage of using a RH gun is it's much much easier to sell. I had to practically give away a LH GPR flintlock I had.

I would have bought one if they had.

HA