Newbie needs help
 

I guess I can say( for you guys) here we go again. But I've spent the last 15 years hunting with a long bow. So then I get a wild hair to pull down a TC 54cal renegade that's been hanging on my wall for quite some time. So I hit the forums, go to Bass Pro Shop and but a box of Hornady .530 RB's. .015 pre-lubed patches, #11 percussion caps, and some Pyrodex RS powder. I live in Fla. but hunt in Ga. So with that said, I can't picture shooting deer past about 120 yrds. My eyes suck so I need to shoot at targets at 50 yrds. Where you guys come in is this. When I sit down to start shooting this thing, do I need to swab the barrel out after every shot, and with what. I also would like to know how high will the ball hit at 50 yrds to zero in at around 120 yrds. I know the barrel comes off pretty easy and have read about Luke warm soapy water for cleaning before I put her to bed for any length of time. I'm sure oil setting in the barrel after cleaning can't be good for the next time I want to go hunting, so that's a concern. I guess I just want to hear it first hand what you guys do in muzzle loading/ hunting 101. If I go on a 3 or 4 day hunt and shoot, do I have to give it the soapy bath during the hunt or will it make it home before turning into a pile of rust. Just any normal info will be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah I bought one of the automatic measuring thing that screws to my powder flask. It measures out 84grs. Thanks in advance ....regards Wade

1. do I need to swab the barrel out after every shot, and with what. That depends on the powder you shoot, the humidity, the temperature, etc. But it does not hurt to swab between shots. You accuracy will be better. But when you swab DO NOT SATURATE THE PATCH. I use a mix of Windex and alcohol 50/50. I spritz the patch and then work it up and down the bore in short strokes. SHORT STROKES. Then when I did not sides of the damp patch, I like to run a dry patch to make sure there is no moisture in the barrel.

2.I also would like to know how high will the ball hit at 50 yrds to zero in at around 120 yrds. When I sight in, I like to sight in two inches high at 50 yards. That normally puts me just under the bull at 100 yards. With my eyes, I will not shoot past 100 yards anymore. 75 and under is preferred. As for how high you'd have to be over the bull at 50 yards to be on at 120.. you'd have to do some range time and learn your rifle. The powder charge can also make a difference.

3. I'm sure oil setting in the barrel after cleaning can't be good for the next time I want to go hunting, so that's a concern. Spritz a patch with alcohol. then swab the bore of the rifle. The alcohol will pull the oil out of the bore. Then a couple dry patches. This makes sure the barrel is dry and oil free. Then put a dry patch on your jag and push that to the bottom of the breech. Now put a #11 cap on the nipple and fire it. This will blow any oil out of the fire chamber into the patch. It will also burn the patch. If you have a burn mark that means the fire channel is clear. If no burn do it again until you have a burn. Then pop one more cap for the muzzleloader gods. They like the noise.

Now your ready to load the rifle. You know the bore of the rifle is oil free and the fire chamber is clear. So you should be set to go.

My .54 caliber Renegade likes 90 grains of 2f powder and a .530 patched ball. There are other things you can do to make sure that the rifle will fire when hunting. But that info should get you shooting.

Well, it depends on the velocity of your load of course. For example, a 70 grain load of Pyrodex RS should give you something like 1550 fps with a .530 ball. And loads in that range are generally pretty accurate from TC guns.

So if you sight in with a 100 yard zero your trajectory should look something like this. It may not be exact, but it's a good base line to work with.

Excellent advice from Cayugad. (Especially the last two sentences. :cool2:)

All above is from old timers who know what they are talking about so what I can add is little.
If you have shot your gun enough so the barrel is polished or have polished it with JB Bore paste it will shoot two or 3 times with hunting accuracy, it will not have the fine group that wiping each time gives but it should retain what we call minute of deer accuracy.
I have two of the same rifle I had to go to the .535 ball to get the best accuracy, I also went to 110 grains as it gave me tighter groups at 100 yards and over and put deer down faster so I did not have to track them so far. I use RS Pyrodex.

Lots of great advice above, those guys know their stuff. Only thing I can add....if you do go on a 3-4 day hunt and shoot it, I would at least swab it out if you can't fully clean it. Then clean her up real good as soon as you get home.

Couple of quick questions. 1) windex and regular rubbing alcohol ?
2) you say to put a dry patch in the bottom of the barrel, so
When you shoot the cap off, should it blow the patch out
The end of the barrel

Thanks guys for all the great advise. Can't wait for the weekend so I can burn some powder. I'm sure I'll get frustrated for a while, but like any thing, it has to be fine tuned. As stupid as it sounds, once you find what your gun likes can you pretty much rely on it shooting true for a long time, or will you have to change ball or load to continue the rifles accuracy.

The dry patch goes on your cleaning jag and is fully inserted in the bore. Leave the ramrod (with the jag & patch) fully inserted and pop a cap. Then remove the rod and inspect the patch for powder burn.

Generally speaking, a good load is good forever. But (there's always a but) sometimes as the bore is polished by a lot of shooting you will need to go with a slightly thicker patch.

Lol duh! Thanks again.