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Ramrod "seasoning"
So I am at work and what am I doing? That's right reading about ramrods and how to make them at home. (I am trying to decide whether to use a polymer rod and save the wooden rod for show)
Along my Internet travels I came across a snippet where the poster describes a technique for seasoning wooden ramrods. I have never heard of this method before and would appreciate comments before soaking a rod in kerosene! If you are going to use a wooden ramrod, you really ought to properly season it to prevent it from breaking in your hand. Get a galvanized iron pipe about an inch inside diameter (threaded on each end) long enough to put your ramrod in it and a cap for each end. Fill the pipe with kerosene, cap it, and let the ramrod soak for a few months. When you take it out, let it dry and you will find it to be quite flexible, and almost unbreakable. This is much better than having a dry wooden ramrod break and stick through your hand. I picked up this technique from an old Dixie Gun Works Catalog's Reference Section. |
I've read about it before, but never tried it. Sounds interesting.
Asking this on the Traditional Muzzleloader forum might get more answers. Can't give a link on this forum. |
I can see how that would work.
I would think any light oil would absorb completely into the wood. Kerosene would evaporate from the wood sooner than oil. It is pretty flammable as well. We used to soak hammer /axe handles in oil for weeks before use. The wood would swell and keep the head tight for a long time. |
I've seen it as well and don't think it is necessary if you have a good hickory rod and if you know how to use it....I have two flintlocks...One was bought in 1977 and I made the other in 1988...I'm still using them and haven't treated either....
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I can see how that would work. I would think any light oil would absorb completely into the wood. Kerosene would evaporate from the wood sooner than oil. It is pretty flammable as well. We used to soak hammer /axe handles in oil for weeks before use. The wood would swell and keep the head tight for a long time. |
To me the 'secret' is in the grain. Check out information about ladder rungs. What is true for ladders is true for ram rods. If the grain runs all the way through the ram rod, it won't want to break when one bears down on a load. Certainly, keeping the wood soaked with oil, and pliable can't hurt. A wooden ram rod with the grain running from end to end will be less liable to break under stress. Just an old carpenter' opinion.
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Just an old carpenter' opinion. I was looking through an earlier (from 2006) thread on replacement ramrods and Roundball had the following to offer: RE: Replacement ramrod IMO, the the best, strongest ramrods made were those TC used to make before their plant fire...resin impregnated ramrods...wooden, good looking, darn near as strongas steel, etc |
I think they were put in a vacuum bath of plastic resin.
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I used to have a link of a guy who made custom ramrods from wood that had a metal rod in the middle of them.
Classic looks with modern strength. Anybody know that link? I'd like one for the New Englander. |
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