All you hawken shooters out there!
12-01-2012, 02:49 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Anne Arrundle County, Maryland
Posts: 1,672
I use 83 grains fff Goex and a 370 grain Maxi Ball in my Thompson Center Hawkins, no over powder wad. It has always proven to be a deadly combination. Just a little hard on the shoulder though.
12-03-2012, 01:17 PM
#7
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
The amount of powder you need or shoots best will be determined by the rifle, the twist, and the projectile. I have a T/C Hawkens rifle that shoots great with 85 grains of Black Powder or 75 grains of Triple Seven powder. Yet my Traditions Woodsman Hawken(s) both shoot well with 90 grains of Black Powder and a roundball.
The important thing is to prepare the rifle properly before the first shot, and then know your rifle. Does it need to be swabbed? Does it get fussy about projectiles? All the things your rifle will tell you with lots of range time.
The important thing is to prepare the rifle properly before the first shot, and then know your rifle. Does it need to be swabbed? Does it get fussy about projectiles? All the things your rifle will tell you with lots of range time.
12-03-2012, 02:20 PM
#8
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Posts: 10,917
Both of my TC Hawkens have Green Mountain replacement barrels Austinhuntman. The .50 has a 1:28 twist that I shoot with sabots, and the .58 has a 1:70 twist that shoots patched balls into tight groups.
Each one is my favorite rifle when I'm shooting it. But then, every muzzleloader I own turns out to be my favorite at the time I'm shooting it.
Each one is my favorite rifle when I'm shooting it. But then, every muzzleloader I own turns out to be my favorite at the time I'm shooting it.
12-05-2012, 11:49 AM
#9
Spike
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Troy, MI
Posts: 36
I have a CVA Hawken in .54 cal....it has a 1:48" twist, and will only shoot PRBs and T/C maxiballs (and maxihunters) worth a damn.....later found it shoots the LEE traditional minie ball fairly well also.
My primary hunting load is 90 grains of FFFg under a patched round ball that I cast myself....this is my go-to whitetail load. I've taken a bison with it using 100 grains of FFg and the T/C maxiballs.
Tips? I have a few....1.) carry a spare ramrod & short starter with you on hunting trips. Nothing will ruin a hunt quicker than not being able to load your gun. 2.) prior to popping a couple of caps on the gun to "dry it out" prior to loading, I run a couple of alcohol patches down the bore (you can get them from any pharmacy) to help remove any oils that might contaminate the charge. I usually run two alcohol patches then a dry patch, fire a cap, then load. Also, after popping the cap, I take my nipple pick and make sure that there is NO blockage from the nipple to the drum.
When loading, I make sure the muzzle is pointed away from me, and then tilt the gun to the side with the drum....I do this because some of the powder will end up in the drum, ensuring a positive ignition. I used to take the nipple off and trickle some powder in there, replace the nipple, then cap.....but that was too tedioius; the tilt technique is just as good and simple. However, if you have a bad charge (contaminated with oil, ect), the trickle powder trick works well to set off the charge and clear the bore.
I usually keep a couple of measured charges in glass containers capped with a cork....makes reloading a little faster without having to fumble with measures, horns, flasks, ect.
I also take some white out correction fluid an paint the front blade....it helps it to stand out in low light conditions.
Good luck..............
My primary hunting load is 90 grains of FFFg under a patched round ball that I cast myself....this is my go-to whitetail load. I've taken a bison with it using 100 grains of FFg and the T/C maxiballs.
Tips? I have a few....1.) carry a spare ramrod & short starter with you on hunting trips. Nothing will ruin a hunt quicker than not being able to load your gun. 2.) prior to popping a couple of caps on the gun to "dry it out" prior to loading, I run a couple of alcohol patches down the bore (you can get them from any pharmacy) to help remove any oils that might contaminate the charge. I usually run two alcohol patches then a dry patch, fire a cap, then load. Also, after popping the cap, I take my nipple pick and make sure that there is NO blockage from the nipple to the drum.
When loading, I make sure the muzzle is pointed away from me, and then tilt the gun to the side with the drum....I do this because some of the powder will end up in the drum, ensuring a positive ignition. I used to take the nipple off and trickle some powder in there, replace the nipple, then cap.....but that was too tedioius; the tilt technique is just as good and simple. However, if you have a bad charge (contaminated with oil, ect), the trickle powder trick works well to set off the charge and clear the bore.
I usually keep a couple of measured charges in glass containers capped with a cork....makes reloading a little faster without having to fumble with measures, horns, flasks, ect.
I also take some white out correction fluid an paint the front blade....it helps it to stand out in low light conditions.
Good luck..............