Beginner-need some info.
 

Hello,

I've been on a days' long search for this simple info. Or maybe it's not so simple.

I have a brand new rifle. It's .625 caliber. I slugged the barrel, and the measurements are: .625 and .594.

The octogon barrel is 36 inches long, and one inch in diameter (flat to flat) at it's front end, and 1 1/4 diameter at the rear.

What is the ideal size for a ball-and-patch for this rifle? I'm going to order a custom molds(s) if I have to. And what is the proper diameter for a flat bottomed Fronteirsman style long-ish conical bullet? Do we patch conicals that are not Mini's? Does gas get past heavy conicals since they are not patched?

Can you recommend the range of powder loads this rifle seems capable of?

That's sure a tub of questions!

Roger

sounds like a 62. needs a 1:144" twist...but i am not sure,,maybe its a 45.

I wasn't hoping for a childish response.

.625" RB .62-cal (.625") needs 1:144" twist (1:150 is the number).

Yaa,sounds like a 62ish trade gun i have,only your rifled. Heck of a slug,right close to 20 gauge?
Working up a load with patched R.B.try a 15 thousandths, if it loads easy enough try a 20 thousandths. Integrity of patch till out muzzle important,if 15 s retrieved and are ok see how well it groups. Lube choice or a backer patch over powder could affect durability of patch too.
Maker would have recommended max charge. No choice i,d start around 60 grains of 2f or equivalent. 3 shot group. Increase charge in 5 grain increments ea 3 shot group till 80 grains(i don,t know max allowed on your barrel) unless group opens up before then.
Dixie gun works may still carry mold. Or try visiting a near by black powder shoot to see if any traders have one. Usually where i pick up stuff.
A conical ,some grooved to accept lube,firing upsets base to seal,not saying a solid base would.
A conical 20 guage solid, yikes. That would get the cat out from under the bed!.
Sounds like a fun piece you have there. Half baked is trying to tell you a specific twist desired for optimum performance with round ball. another for conical. In between compromise, less accurate for either. I.e. 50 cal. Round ball barrel 1 turn in 66 inches. Conical barrel 1 in 35 maybe. A heavy charge behind a roundball in a conical rifled twist barrel hard for ball to stay engaged in rifling thus "skipping" and trashing accuracy.

Blooie, the closest size balls available from Track of The Wolf are .575, .580. and .595. Given your rifle's land-to-land diameter of .594 and groove depth of 0.015, I would think a .595 ball would be a bear to load even with a thin patch. So I'd try .580 balls and a thick .022 denim patch. If you find a source of .590 balls (or have a mold made) that size would be perfect for .018 pillow tick patch.

Can't help you much with conicals. But you really need to determine the rate of twist of your barrel before getting too deep into them.

Generally speaking, except for a perfectly fitting minnie, conicals will not do well in a slow twist barrel designed for balls. Minnies are lubed and not patched. Conicals are generally not patched. But "paper patched" and cloth "cross patches" can work quite well in barrels with suitable groove depth (usually shallow) and twist rate.

We'd sure like to see a picture of that cannon.

Yes pics.! Course i want to shoot it also.
I wash and dry ticking before measuring. Gets any "sizing" out if manufacturer used it.(kinda like a starch).

I have the .625 rifle, with .594 when I measure the rifling diameter. All your information is very interesting. I ordered some balls, and the .595 easily rolls right down the barrel when it seems to me it's too big for that. Maybe I should have a machine shop mic the barrel.

I've been assuming that in round lead balls the the rifling should make grooves in the lead under the patch except for the the mini-balls. Not so, eh? Is it the patch that engages the rifling?

I'm getting older, and have some tremor and no-longer-as-sharp eyesight. I'm 64 and not a really old geezer. I want to have fun with this rifle, so I improved (hopefully) the rifle just for me, so I can hopefully hit targets out to 100 yards. Other aging men hang up their rifles because for them it was no longer fun to shoot. But I want to keep shooting. I'm not a precision replica gun guy. If I have to I'll try a red dot sight. When the guys at the range see this gun, I hope they don't beat me up and throw me into a gully.

Don't be surprised when you see this rifle. I had asked about period rifle telescopic sights, and it turns out that they first showed up in the 1860's, for use in warfare, to make it possible to take out personnel that a normally-sighted rifle could not reliably do. This sight is long, resembling a telescope, and has no reticle. It is an antique, made during that period. We'll see if I can learn to use it.

Roger

dear not so old geezer...i would take that to a specialist..ya never wanna just load an old gun like that. it could blow up in yer face...as ugly as it is, it will make yer face worse. you will look funny with just 1 big azz ear :poke:

Yes,patch engages rifling. thickness of patch will determine how tight. Sharp lands can cut a real tight patch.
Don,t sweat needing more than iron sights when live game the target. we owe it to them to be humane. On the range do what you need to for accuracy.
I,m about ready for a ghost ring site.
You only need to please yourself with it,unless in a ruled event requiring open iron sites.
Enjoy.

A picture would be worth a thousand words. Once we can see it, I'm sure someone will recognize the make and model and provide info to get you started.

You say you have a "brand new" rifle. Is it of new manufacture or just new to you? If only new to you, is this an original or replica? What are the markings on the breeck area?

Since this is a rifle and not a smoothbore I am understanding, you normally want to go .010 under the diameter of the bore. But that is a general measurement. Some only go .005 under which gives them .010 under bore. But then you need a thinner patch.

I had a .62 caliber smoothbore (20 gauge). I used to shoot a .600 and a .610 ball. I cast my own out of a LEE Mold. If I were going to shoot the .600 I would use a patch material like 100% cotton Blue jean cloth or pillow tick. Also keep the powder charge down. With only 80 grains of 2f black powder it would shoot through a lot of wood. Old jeans work fine if they are all cotton.

I checked the LEE Mold Site http://leeprecision.com/mold-sc-ball-600.html And if I could cast my own, that is the ball I would be trying.

Let me look through my stuff here at the house. I sold the smoothbore. But might have a few ball left around the house. If I do, I would be glad to send them to you. If you like. I might also have some wads too...

[QUOTE=halfbakedi420;3995003]dear not so old geezer...i would take that to a specialist..ya never wanna just load an old gun like that. it could blow up in yer face...as ugly as it is, it will make yer face worse. you will look funny with just 1 big azz ear :poke


You certainly do have a good point. But the way I write mislead you. My rifle is a brand new replica, with all parts made of modern steel, except for the scope and the brass. I've seen Damascus barrels, and they are scary. My old swivel breech rifle made my blood pressure go up a litttle every time I shot it. Not good. I finally outfitted myself with a reliable gun! Yippeee!

Roger

Answer to cayugad
 

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cayugad,

If you could mail me a .600 ball that would be great! I'm going to have to learn what wads are, but if you send one or two, that would be GREAT!

To talk about mailing, payments, and such, I'm [email protected]
Please put CAYUGAD in caps in the subject line.

Roger

I'm curious what rifle this is. Can you tell us the manufacturer and model and the rate of rifling twist?