Triple
 

I am experienced in black powder and round ball muzzleloading. But sabots and BP substitute powders are new to me.

I bought a pound of FFFg TripleSeven and a pound of FFg Pyrodex to use with my 50 cal rifle and sabots. I noticed that several ballistics tables show data using TripleSeven, and not with Pyrodex.

My newby question is: Is TripleSeven a more popular (or better) powder than Pyrodex?

Thank you,
Gene Pool

Edit: Please excuse the title. Somehow I hit the enter button before completing it. It should read, "TripleSeven or Pyrodex."

I am not certain the T7 is better than any of the Pyro's, it certainly is more powerful per grain and it does burn a little cleaner. T7 is less corrosive than the Pyro's but non-the-less it is corrosive.

I use T7-3f in all of my cap ignition guns and 2f in the 209 guns.

Using T7 with 209 ignition does often leave a 'crud ring' (fouling) after ignition in the bore and some thing you will need to learn to manage.

Dear sabotloader,

Thank you for your reply.

You bring up another question: Is TripleSeven and Pyrodex truly corrosive? If that is the case, I might go back to using black powder.

Gene Pool

Pyrodex is corrosive. Some say it is more corrosive than real black powder. IMHO 777 is also corrosive. Maybe not as much as Pyrodex, but still could damage your MZ, if not properly cleaned after a shooting session. I would not risk damaging my MZ's by not cleaning after a shooting session. I have used both of these powders, as well as Goex. I have never had any corrosion issues as I always clean after shooting.

Again this is just my opinion...

I believe that the Pyro's are slighly more corrosive than are the real Black Powders which are also very corrosive. T7 is the least corrosive of the group and BH-209 is even less corrosive than T7.

Also understand it is not the Pyro-T7 or BH powder that is corrosive - it is the residue from shooting left in the barrel that with moisture turns corrosive. If the bore never got wet the powder residue could sit there forever.

None of these are a real problem if you do your bore maintance... some you do not have to do it as quickly as others... and if you are already familiar with real BP you will have no problems with any of them.

If prefer T7 to all of them because of the less corrosive, less fouling aspects - but also remember it physically burns at a much higher temperature than do the pyro's or real BP... I use a wad when shooting a PRB to protect the patch and a shot card when shooting a lead flat based bullet.