Let's Build A Gun
#27
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,037
I took the time to read it carefully this morning Semi. Very nice job and excellent story and documentation. I hope you don't mind if I ask one question. Is the steel you used to mill that breech block out of just regular mild steel or is it harder. Maybe mild steel is all that is needed there because the pressure seems like it should be confined to the barrel and that short flame channel.
I commend you for your hard work and patience. I'm looking forward to seeing how it shoots!
I commend you for your hard work and patience. I'm looking forward to seeing how it shoots!
#28
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Posts: 10,917
Don't mind you asking at all Chaded. Because I used a barrel I've had laying around for years the parts for the build cost me right around $200. If I had bought a new Green Mountain .54 caliber round ball barrel for it the cost would have been about $350.
Those figures don't include the $100 I blew on engraving the side plates, or the taps, dies, and drill bits I had to buy because I didn't have those sizes on hand. Then there was sandpaper for the metal and wood finishing, and a quart of tung oil for the stock. I didn't keep track of those costs (because I didn't want to know ).
Anyway, here's the parts list I did track.
EDIT: I just noticed the list shows no cost for the front ramrod pipe and ramrod. I ended up buying a connecting nut for about two bucks to fabricate the pipe, and a 1/4" brass rod for the ramrod. The only place locally I could find brass rod long enough was an industrial supplier that had a $25 minimum purchase requirement. So I ended up buying two twelve foot long rods for $26.50. So now I have enough to make brass rods for any and all additional barrels I make for the gun.
Flounder, the breech block is just plain mild steel. I have no concern there with regard to strength. In fact, Bronko suggested I consider using a good grade of aluminum for the block. I have no doubt that would work just fine also so long as the bronze bushings are used for the striker guides. Aluminum would probably be easier to work with too. If I build a pistol I may give aluminum a try.
Those figures don't include the $100 I blew on engraving the side plates, or the taps, dies, and drill bits I had to buy because I didn't have those sizes on hand. Then there was sandpaper for the metal and wood finishing, and a quart of tung oil for the stock. I didn't keep track of those costs (because I didn't want to know ).
Anyway, here's the parts list I did track.
EDIT: I just noticed the list shows no cost for the front ramrod pipe and ramrod. I ended up buying a connecting nut for about two bucks to fabricate the pipe, and a 1/4" brass rod for the ramrod. The only place locally I could find brass rod long enough was an industrial supplier that had a $25 minimum purchase requirement. So I ended up buying two twelve foot long rods for $26.50. So now I have enough to make brass rods for any and all additional barrels I make for the gun.
Flounder, the breech block is just plain mild steel. I have no concern there with regard to strength. In fact, Bronko suggested I consider using a good grade of aluminum for the block. I have no doubt that would work just fine also so long as the bronze bushings are used for the striker guides. Aluminum would probably be easier to work with too. If I build a pistol I may give aluminum a try.
Last edited by Semisane; 09-26-2012 at 07:42 AM.
#30
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Posts: 10,917
Chaded, if I added in labor and planning time the customer base would be limited to guys like Donald Trump.
On the other hand, my wife says my labor time isn't worth squat. She's probably right. It was more like recreation than labor anyway.
On the other hand, my wife says my labor time isn't worth squat. She's probably right. It was more like recreation than labor anyway.