I am not seeing the frost on them my self. Frosting normally happens to alloyed lead. I have never seen soft lead ( 5 BHN to 8 BHN) frost. In the middle picture the two balls on the left look like they have a tint of blue. That to me looks like soft lead and no frosting at all. They are wrinkled bad but I don't see frost.

To the OP. I am with the rest. You need to just clean the mould good. Get the lead, and mould hot. If it is a bottom pour pot make sure your getting good fast flow from the spout. Slow flow from the pot or ladle with allow the lead to cool as it is going into the mould. That will also cause wrinkles.
Speed up your pouring, and grade them after you have some done. After you get better you will be able to grade as you go but it will take time. For a while just pour some balls and get used to the whole thing. Ron

cayugad, Do you ever burn a match to get carbon inside the cavity itself? Is that even necessary? How often do I need to lube the mold (the V's and grooves, the bolt and nut and the alignment pins) every time before I start casting?

Thanks Ron, I'm using a "Hot Pot 2" an electric pot for melting. I read a lot of reviews and they seemed to be good so as a beginner I figured the hot pot 2 would work good. Did I make a mistake buying it? Has anyone had a bad experience using it? I hope I just need to speed up my process and get into a good rhythm.

I use a candle to smoke the mold. But I also have a product I purchased when I first started casting. It is called "Rapine Mold Lube" and it is like liquid carbon in a bottle. I use a model builder's brush and paint the inside and the hinge on the molds first. Then if I think of it, I will smoke the mold, but with the lube I really don't think it is necessary.

Just smoke the mold real hard before you start molding. And lets say after a hundred ball cast, you decided to have a break and rest... smoke it again before you start. The mold will start to come clean eventually.

One other hint.. some do not do this. When I am finished with casting for the day, I leave the last ball in the mold and let the mold cool this way. I use LEE molds which are aluminum and was taught they are subject to warping if they cool too fast. The ball left in the mold allows the mold to cool from the outside in. My molds are over 30 years old (some of them) and I still cast a great roundball out of them.

Gentlemen: thanks for your help and advice. Here are some pics of today's results...much better, I think.

Sounds like most have hit it on the head. The only thing I could add is instead of dipping your mold between castings, I just let it rest on the top of the melting between drops and am good to go.
Cayugad is right on cleaning between casting sessions with alcohol and then spraying with drop out spray. Makes a huge difference!!!!!

Those look real good. If you have a scale... weigh some and see how close you are. It will surprise you how good you did. And I have to ask.. did you pick any of them up with your fingers before they were cool? I always tell myself I am not going to do it.. and always come off the day with burnt fingers.

Funny you should ask!!! :D Of course I did, ouch!!!

:happy0001::happy0001: its nice to know that I am not alone. Its like they draw you to them... pick me up.. please, pick me up.

According to OSHA mandatory provision 17.3, the following sign is required in all casting areas.