T/C Renegade questions.
 

I just bought a new (never fired) T/C Renegade for $295.:rock: This is my first side locked ML, so my knowledge is limited. I have no idea what the rate of twist is cold it be 1:48? I've looked at different nipples, and was wondering if they are worth the extra $? I love the look of the T/C Hawkin, will the stocks or any of the furniture interchange? I'll be shooting Triple 7 in this rifle.

It will be a 1:48.

Check out on the cableas site. Stainless steel hollow base Spitfire nipple. Best investment you can make for a sidelock.

I think the TC Hawken trigger guard will interchange.

Assuming it is .50 cal, most likely a 1:48. Apparently TC made a few Renegades that were 1:38.

Check out

http://www.tcarms.com/firearms/chart_muzzleloaders.php

hubby11,

Interesting chart...I noticed that the .32 Cherokee and Seneca were both 1:30, but the .32 Firehawk (which I have one) is 1:48. Thanks for posting this info.

BPS

as for the interchangeability of the parts, the lock is the same for Rene, Hawken, White Mtn, PA Hunter. The part numbers may be different but they are the same. Also assuming it is a double trigger, that too is interchangeable. Also the eustations and wedge pin, trigger guard (except blued steel vs. brass).

Here is what I HIGHLY recommend for the nipple:

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...49c49fd9ce6b9b

This product is a nipple with an O ring on it. Then it has a brass cover that attaches to a leather string to tie on to the gun. What you do is put the cover over the nipple after loading the gun. The O ring holds it in place and makes it waterproof. It is a totally weather proof cover, and it is a safety. Even if you have the gun loaded and a percussion cap on the nipple, with this cap in place, you can pull the trigger and all that happens is it hits the back of the cover. When ready to fire, just pull it off and shoot!

About 777. You might have some problems with ignition. I went to using fffg powder. And when I load, I pour about 15-20 gr down the barrel and bump the barrel trying to get some of the granules to fall into the side channel. Even so, when I hunt, I load up, then remove the nipple and pour a couple of grains in the channel, then put the nipple back on. Probably not totally kosher doing that, but it has always worked for me. Never had a misfire in the field.

But remember that fffg is more powerful than ffg, so reduce the load by about 10% from what you would use for ffg

Yea it does have set-triggers. Will it hurt anything if I pull the set trigger and with out cocking it then pull the front trigger?
Thanks for all the info everyone!

That will do no harm. Hammer all the way down or on full cock is OK. But do not do it with the hammer on half cock, which can damage the lock.

Thanks Semisane! I have done that on my Renegade at half cock. Won't again though!

I've never had any problems with ignition using Triple 7 in any of my percussion rifles, but I definitely wouldn't use it in a flintlock. It requires more heat to ignite than blackpowder does, and that's why it doesn't work well in flintlocks.

As far as fffg vs ffg, I have never heard that you need to reduce the load by 10% for fffg black, but then again I personally don't believe that "hot" or max loads accomplish anything more than wasting powder so I don't push the limits for any of my rifles.

It's my understanding that as far as Triple 7 is concerned that you should reduce the load by 10%. At least that's what I've heard and read since it came on the market so that's what I do when using it in comparison loads to blackpowder. I'm sure others have more info/input on this than I do.

BPS

The year is 1736. A young apprentice rifle builder named bronko22000 has just recieved a major scolding from his crotchety old German master gunsmith he is serving his apprenticeship under. The old master, with hickory ramrod blank in hand and threatening to seriously whoop the boy's @$$ shouts out, "TAMMIT PRONKO!! HOW MINNY TIMES DO I HAFF TO TELL YOU DAT IT'S ESCUTCHEONS! ESCUTCHEONS!...NOT TIS TAM EUSTATIONS DAT YOU KEEP ONT TELLINK DER KUSTARMER!!!"....

Sorry bronko...I couldn't help it!! :lolabove::lolabove:

BPS

Congratulations on a great rifle. It will serve you well. Try 85 grains of powder and a patched roundball. The rifle will surprise you.

:s2: :s2: :s2: Excellent BPS!

But we really have to cut Bronko some slack. He's so old and feeble he can hardly spell his name correctly, much less something challenging like escutcheons. After all, he got wedge pins and trigger guard right. Two out of three ain't so bad.

Congrats on buying a great rifle at a fair price. I know there are others that would say you shoulda bought this or you shoulda bought that blah, blah. But you just bought a piece of American history and it was built by a company that took pride in what they did. I wouldn't limit yourself solely to Triple7, try blackpowder and pyrodex as well. Try different patch material thickness, lubes, ball diameters (I don't know what caliber you have) as well as different conical bullets and I'm sure you'll find a load for each one that shoots really well.

BPS

Semi,

He's a Pennsy boy so I felt comfortable bustin' on one of my HOMEYS...LOL

BPS

It's a 50 caliber, I bought the rifle manly for deer hunting and target shooting, plus I would love take a deer with round ball.

A great gun for what you want to do with it.

Good luck on your deer hunt.

Speaking of Renegade and Hawken
 

Does anyone know where I can get a schematic or an exploded view or assembly instructions? I bought a used one from my brother and I wanted to reblue and look at the lock which did not strike all the time. I got a new hammer, etc, etc and ready to put it back together which should be no problem. However, being a good Warrant Officer in the Army, retired or course, I would like to have something in front of me as I work?

Checked online, checked all the schematics available, even downloaded the manual, but someplace there has to be an exploded view with parts lists, etc.

Thanks

Here is the source of a diagram..

http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/ph...ic.php?t=21780

Thanks that is exactly what I was looking for! :party0005:

I bought my first BP rifle, in 1978, $155.00 NIB. A t/c renegade. Shot the daylights out of it for years, I always got a kick out of shooting a RB into a cinderblock and watching it explode. I use a musket cap on mine for the last few years anyway; more positive ignition in the semi-damp weather we have here in western Washington. I also back fill the nipple of a cold barrel with a few grains of 4f bp (got some years ago from a flinter, very handy to have); when I have done this, I have never had a miss-fire. The one time I did not do this about 20 years ago I was 20 yards from the biggest blacktail buck I have seen. No buck fever, no shaking, just a steady front sight on the bucks breast bone (he was standing still looking at me). Squeezed the trigger and just a pop of the cap. Big buck turned and walked away, like he knew I could do nothing to him. Bummer and learning lesson. I like using only BP in my side lock as the ignition is easier than pryodex or 777, also in the slightly damp misty weather we get here, BP still ignites (although you may get a hang fire, 777will turn to pudding with any significant degree of moisture. I have shot both RB and Maxiball thru mine, though I prefer RB. I hand cast mine at.527 and used a greased cotton t-shirt that still has a little body for patching, finding that 110 grs 2f does wonders. Killed a bull this year, one shot through heart with that load. Bull went maybe 30 yards. Side to side penetration, I really wanted to recover that RB, but not to be.

Shot a cow in Yakima in 95 with same rifle using a 435 gr conical in front of 110 grs BP. recovered the slug under skin on far side all smashed up. Best hunting fun there is, with BP rifles. Enjoy that Renegade, I wouldn't part with mine for $1,000.00. nope.

Happy hunting

What threading do I look for when buying nipples?

The nipple thread pattern is 1/4 x 28"

Make sure the nipple is a good stainless steel nipple. I order mine fore RMC Sports. They have good prices and excellent quality products. On their site, its easy to find the right one. That Renegade is an excellent rifle that will do anything you need done.

I got a hot shot nipple from mountain state muzzleloading it is a little longer than the standard nipple, I screw it about 3/4 down and I get some resistance, do i screw it in all the way?

I really don't know. I never had that happen to me. I am not sure if the nipple has bottomed out, which I seriously doubt, or the threads are compromised. When you put the old one in, was there any resistance when you were setting the nipple? The hot shot nipple is a great nipple. But I would hate to tell you to force it. Make sure it is not cross threaded, but I am sure its not. Other then that, are you using a nipple wrench to put it in? Some of them can get stubborn once in a while. Try putting some anti seize on the threads and see if that don't help.

Does it have a clean out screw? The nipple could be running into it. If that's the case. Screw out the screw until the nipple will go all the way in. Be careful after you screw the clean out screw back in after the nipple is seated. The clean out screw will be bottoming out on the nipple threads.

If it's a 1/4 x 28 and not the 6.1 mm.( it's 1/64th bigger if i remember right) then it just might be dirty enough to offer resistance. I would double check and make sure of the size though . Maybe clean it out and try threading it again.

No cleaning screw and the original nipple screws in fine.

If the old one screws in ok then I wouldn't force the new one. I would get another new one and try it . You don't want to take chance and mess up the threads

Sorry, I was thinking of my old GPR on the clean out screw.

see if you can find a nut at a hardware store that the new nipple can screw into. You could force it through that any maybe clean any burr off a thread that might be stopping it. If the old one fits that nice I would suspect the threads on the new nipple.

There may be burrs on the threads of the new nipple. Try folding a piece of fine sandpaper so it's kind of like a knife blade and polish the threads.